thesledsurgeon
Newbie
06 apex er 2500 miles
Original ecu ran fine ofcourse , then some intermitent starting issues, then quit running w/ code 35 displayed.
In diagnostic mode the fuel pump does not turn on and 2/4 plugs have no spark. everything else including the tors operates properly. The fuel pump worked during earlier testing and all the injectors worked fine , but the more i mess with it the worse it gets.
So I swapped in the ECU from my apex w/ 200 miles . This work shortly then went down hill fast . started with intermitent problem and then it starting display about 10 codes before given up the ghost. It Is cooked! even in diag mode most the tests are non fuctional.
Harness is perfect, all grounds rust free. I even swapped in a harness from a sled w/ 200 miles, coils, throttle bodies w/ tors and harness.
I installed the 2nd ECU in my buddies apex and displayed the same codes and inoperable. ( I was not going to burn up a 3rd one by installing his in my sled)
Could it be the mag or regulator? whats the best way to test these?
Thanks.
Original ecu ran fine ofcourse , then some intermitent starting issues, then quit running w/ code 35 displayed.
In diagnostic mode the fuel pump does not turn on and 2/4 plugs have no spark. everything else including the tors operates properly. The fuel pump worked during earlier testing and all the injectors worked fine , but the more i mess with it the worse it gets.
So I swapped in the ECU from my apex w/ 200 miles . This work shortly then went down hill fast . started with intermitent problem and then it starting display about 10 codes before given up the ghost. It Is cooked! even in diag mode most the tests are non fuctional.
Harness is perfect, all grounds rust free. I even swapped in a harness from a sled w/ 200 miles, coils, throttle bodies w/ tors and harness.
I installed the 2nd ECU in my buddies apex and displayed the same codes and inoperable. ( I was not going to burn up a 3rd one by installing his in my sled)
Could it be the mag or regulator? whats the best way to test these?
Thanks.
Has this machine been under water ?
thesledsurgeon
Newbie
Not that I know of although I am not the original owner. it really is a clean sled and none of the wiring or connectors appear to be corroded.
Low miles for this machine,where and how do you store it.electrical for sure somewhere?
thesledsurgeon
Newbie
I keep it stored out of the weather, But I suppose it could have been outside for awhile before I owned it. Ya thinking somethings up with the Mag?
erosled
Extreme
Neither the stator nor regulator will 'fry' an ECU.
I know that you said you checked wiring, but sure sounds like ground problems to me. There are a cople of spots prone to issues on these. One by the primary clutch and don't remember the other...up front I think. Make sure you are cutting the tape open and checking where they all join up.
blue er
Expert
sounds like a wiring issue somewhere for sure.
by chance does this 06 have the o.e bars and the 07 sub lead for the grip warmer? if so may be drawing to much current through the ecm
by chance does this 06 have the o.e bars and the 07 sub lead for the grip warmer? if so may be drawing to much current through the ecm
thesledsurgeon
Newbie
The wiring is fine, everything checks out on it fine. tore that thing apart numerous times. I even swapped in a harness from my 07 rtx w/ 249 miles on it and tried the ecu's in a good running sled and they are cooked. I even swapped over the bars to see if that was issue but no luck however that was after the ecu's where wasted I think.
I've been fighting with this issue since last fall. only things not changed or swaped out are the the starter, reg and mag.
Searching for another ECU if anyones got one let me know.
or does any one need some really nice parts? lol
I've owned and build a bunch of these 4 strokes and never came across this issue.
I've been fighting with this issue since last fall. only things not changed or swaped out are the the starter, reg and mag.
Searching for another ECU if anyones got one let me know.
or does any one need some really nice parts? lol
I've owned and build a bunch of these 4 strokes and never came across this issue.
Soldier'spapa
Lifetime Member
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It sounds like you have the luxury of access to working parts to test against.
I would check voltage and resistance readings... compare known good components to suspected failed components. Do this with components unplugged from their harnesses. You have already ruled out the harness, grounds, bars and ECM. Continue on with each component that plugs into the harness.
I recently found a corroded fuse panel that fried a PCM in a Ford diesel truck. You can't overlook any part of the electrical system.
It's a painstaking task and I feel your pain! Anything else may just be a "shot in the dark".
HTH
I would check voltage and resistance readings... compare known good components to suspected failed components. Do this with components unplugged from their harnesses. You have already ruled out the harness, grounds, bars and ECM. Continue on with each component that plugs into the harness.
I recently found a corroded fuse panel that fried a PCM in a Ford diesel truck. You can't overlook any part of the electrical system.
It's a painstaking task and I feel your pain! Anything else may just be a "shot in the dark".
HTH
blue er
Expert
thesledsurgeon
Newbie
blue er said:
Thank You! but I tried this last fall and explored the ground block issue too.
I even swapped out the coils and the small sub wiring for them. unfortunatly made no difference.
blue er
Expert
maybe you just have bad luck and had two bad ecm's in a row.
something to think about what is/was charging system voltage?
anther is resistence value 's on coils and injectors, had many a gm computer go bad due to shorted injectors
something to think about what is/was charging system voltage?
anther is resistence value 's on coils and injectors, had many a gm computer go bad due to shorted injectors
copo427ss
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Surgeon, I feel your pain. Last year we had a venture in the shop with 700 miles on it. It kept dropping a cylinder first, youd replace the coil then would fry the ecm. You should ohm all the coils. Ill get you the ohm specs from work tomorrow if someone doesn't have them here. But anyway. After cooking 2 ecm's we ordered and replaced the entire harness. Fuse block and all. And the machines been fine since. Funny thing was we tested every plug and wire and they all ohm'd out good. It's still a mystery.
Do you have a wiring diagram for the apex? I wonder if your speedo head has some sort of short internally and it's cooking the ecm. Did you swap the part of the harness that the speedo and key switch plugs into?
Do you have a wiring diagram for the apex? I wonder if your speedo head has some sort of short internally and it's cooking the ecm. Did you swap the part of the harness that the speedo and key switch plugs into?
