Anyone interested in sharing how to adjust the CO setting? I'd like to make small adjustments myself on the hill. I heard rumors about shorting out a specific wire to put in "programming mode"
This will change your low speed fuel mixture much like the pilot circuit on a carbureted model
This does not effect high speed fuel mixture
The engine will start and run normally in C0 mode so you can change settings with the engine running
To return to the normal gauge functions simply turn the key or kill switch off and the gauge display will return normal
1) Apex C0 Fuel Adjust:
- Install a wire (or paperclip) from ground to the pale green wire in the connector on the left of the delta box
- This wire has no mating wire in the male connector and only needs to be grounded to the delta box
2) Enter Diagnostic mode:
- Key and kill switch off, press and hold both "Select and Reset" then power up the gauge
- Wait 8 seconds and the gauge will go blank except for "DI" in the display
- Press "Select" to toggle between "DI" and "C0", Select "C0"
- Press and hold both "Select and Reset" 3 seconds
- Gauge will display "C:01", (this is where you select which cylinder you want to adjust)
- Press and hold "Select and Reset" 3 seconds and 0 should appear in the odometer section - Press "Select" to increase the number (richer), "Reset" to decrease the number (leaner)
- Example (10 is rich from 0) ( -10 is the lean from 0)
- Press both "Select and reset" to chose C:02 and adjust the same as above (must do this for each cylinder)
This does not effect high speed fuel mixture
The engine will start and run normally in C0 mode so you can change settings with the engine running
To return to the normal gauge functions simply turn the key or kill switch off and the gauge display will return normal
1) Apex C0 Fuel Adjust:
- Install a wire (or paperclip) from ground to the pale green wire in the connector on the left of the delta box
- This wire has no mating wire in the male connector and only needs to be grounded to the delta box
2) Enter Diagnostic mode:
- Key and kill switch off, press and hold both "Select and Reset" then power up the gauge
- Wait 8 seconds and the gauge will go blank except for "DI" in the display
- Press "Select" to toggle between "DI" and "C0", Select "C0"
- Press and hold both "Select and Reset" 3 seconds
- Gauge will display "C:01", (this is where you select which cylinder you want to adjust)
- Press and hold "Select and Reset" 3 seconds and 0 should appear in the odometer section - Press "Select" to increase the number (richer), "Reset" to decrease the number (leaner)
- Example (10 is rich from 0) ( -10 is the lean from 0)
- Press both "Select and reset" to chose C:02 and adjust the same as above (must do this for each cylinder)
NORTHERNAPEX
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i guess im not the only one...........mine wont idle at all after warm up. the clutch dis engages and i have to keep the throttle on top keep it from stalling.other than that the thing rocks
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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HAMMER - great info. Is it possible to alter the fuel curve in other parts of the rpm range for better engine performance using this technique?
Don't think so....or nobody (low boost) would need aftermarket fuel controllers 

Thanks Hammer! A wealth of knowledge as usual
rxrider
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HAMMER - I was not thinking huge room for adjustments required for a turbo sled, just a little to perfect the fuel air ratio on a stocker. Sorry I did not mention it was for a stocker in my question.
ken_climb
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
NORTHERNAPEX said:i guess im not the only one...........mine wont idle at all after warm up. the clutch dis engages and i have to keep the throttle on top keep it from stalling.other than that the thing rocks
If yours won't idle,you likely have a vacum leak somewhere.........and a big air filter helps huge with the bottom end load up issue in powder.
sveba
Newbie
whats the latest on this. i have a apex whit mcx on and have the same problem.
I also found that i have condens water in my plenum alot.
I also found that i have condens water in my plenum alot.
NORTHERNAPEX
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ken_climb said:NORTHERNAPEX said:i guess im not the only one...........mine wont idle at all after warm up. the clutch dis engages and i have to keep the throttle on top keep it from stalling.other than that the thing rocks
If yours won't idle,you likely have a vacum leak somewhere.........and a big air filter helps huge with the bottom end load up issue in powder.
I was told by PG the same thing..........and i went through the vac lines and all are good with no kincks, but get this......sometimes i get code 20.......then it idles at 1500 like it should.
TURBLUE
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I heard that most guys are running ther co adjustment from -10 to -16 and there is no bottom end bog. Anybody running this low
TURBLUE
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Just wondering if anybody has resolved any bogging issues. I took the line off fron the intercooler nipple to the yamha atm pressure sensor and the line was full of water. Probably not that great when it freezes.......I have my CO down to -6. Riding with 3 other turbos and they have the BOV up front.....doesn't seem to make a difference.
Was riding in Cooke City and at that elevation it was terrible on the bottom end. Staring to think that the mcx injectors are giving fuel when there is no boost. Also the sled won't start when was with out throttle.
Was riding in Cooke City and at that elevation it was terrible on the bottom end. Staring to think that the mcx injectors are giving fuel when there is no boost. Also the sled won't start when was with out throttle.
travelor
Pro
I have the 02 sensor and after fixing all exhaust and vacuum leaks, ran good, then unplugged the hose to sensor and that leaned it out so finally run without any bog, turned yamaha computer from -35 to -5 now great.
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