Apex track tension

[theCATman]

I run mine with at least an 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 with no weight dangling from the center of the track.

I get zero ratcheting and so far so good, season 3 or 4 on my slides as well. Yamaha's suspension specs are way off, no need to run your track that tight at all imo.

^^^^^This....

I do 99.99% of my riding in southern WI, where conditions are marginal a lot of the time. I have 2,000 miles on my Apex hyfax & they are over 50% yet, and have over 3,000 miles on wifes Vector, also 50% or more on that set.

The Yamaha spec for track tension is bogus.

 

[Notenoughtoys]

I agree with irv....I run mine 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 on both apex and attack and they are also studded. Zero ratcheting and 1800 miles on slides and look like new.

 

[gytrapex]

This may be dumb to ask how can you tell if it ratcheting

I agree with irv....I run mine 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 on both apex and attack and they are also studded. Zero ratcheting and 1800 miles on slides and look like new.

 

[sideshowBob]

This may be dumb to ask how can you tell if it ratcheting

You will know!
When under power, you will feel a large vibration and noise from low in tunnel area...almost sounds like something broke in your track drive.

 

[stevewithOCD]

I found stock specs right on & i experimented alot with actual results....not guessing. 1'' to 1 1/4'' with 20 lbs. pushing on center of track. The weight will compensate for cold or warm track. I lean on the 1 1/4'' side.

 

[stevewithOCD]

BTW...i have 5000 miles on my sliders & have the strap pulled up 1 notch. I proved in one day doing tests that you will LOOSE top end with track too loose.

 

[steiner]

Loose track with studs can cause damage that cannot be seen until you do a track or driveshaft change.
I have been running my track just tight enough ( 1-1.25" with no weight) so it does not ratchet. The track is the stock Ripsaw with Woody's 1.325 studs @2 per row.
Changing the track this season I found damage on the front exchanger and bulkhead from the studs. I have modified protectors to compensate for studs but did not anticipate anything could happen up in the front as the track would be tight enough as its pulled around the tight 9" radius. Wrong. In the pic you can see where the studs are hitting. I will be running the new track tighter

 

[Irv]

Loose track with studs can cause damage that cannot be seen until you do a track or driveshaft change.
I have been running my track just tight enough ( 1-1.25" with no weight) so it does not ratchet. The track is the stock Ripsaw with Woody's 1.325 studs @2 per row.
Changing the track this season I found damage on the front exchanger and bulkhead from the studs. I have modified protectors to compensate for studs but did not anticipate anything could happen up in the front as the track would be tight enough as its pulled around the tight 9" radius. Wrong. In the pic you can see where the studs are hitting. I will be running the new track tighter.View attachment 103668

Steiner, maybe it's just my eyes (likely) but I can't see anything that looks like damage in your pic? I also assume you track is a 136"? In that case, I'd suspect it would balloon slightly more, which would warrant having the track a little tighter, especially if you do a lot of high speed runs?

 

[gytrapex]

I took my sled for a ride last night with 3/4 of play did good so I'm going to try 1" of play see what that gives me

 

[steiner]

Steiner, maybe it's just my eyes (likely) but I can't see anything that looks like damage in your pic? I also assume you track is a 136"? In that case, I'd suspect it would balloon slightly more, which would warrant having the track a little tighter, especially if you do a lot of high speed runs?

Edited the pic. If you look where the red circles are you can see the scratch lines from the studs.
Sorry, wish I knew how to make the pic bigger here on the forum.

 

[theCATman]

Well, this topic has been a huge debate since the first RX-1 had 300 miles & the hyfax were worn thru. I guess what works for some won't work for everyone.

I will agree with the fact that a too loose track will hurt top speed, but what are we talking here?? 100+... 110+...115+????

I guess for the trail riding I do, I rarely get over 80 MPH, and have had zero issues with ratcheting, ballooning in excess to cause damage, or loss of top speed. I will run my preferred tension & ride on.

 

[Phatboyc]

BTW...i have 5000 miles on my sliders & have the strap pulled up 1 notch. I proved in one day doing tests that you will LOOSE top end with track too loose.

I tend to believe people with OCD so I adjusted mine the same this year.

I saw your original post when you did your speed runs comparing track tension. That right there convinced me to look it up and I found the same answers from racers that experimented also. I also found a post from Track USA recommending this level of tension.

 

[Metallicat]

BTW...i have 5000 miles on my sliders & have the strap pulled up 1 notch. I proved in one day doing tests that you will LOOSE top end with track too loose.

What do you consider "too loose" in terms of static track sag?

 

[Irv]

Loose track with studs can cause damage that cannot be seen until you do a track or driveshaft change.
I have been running my track just tight enough ( 1-1.25" with no weight) so it does not ratchet. The track is the stock Ripsaw with Woody's 1.325 studs @2 per row.
Changing the track this season I found damage on the front exchanger and bulkhead from the studs. I have modified protectors to compensate for studs but did not anticipate anything could happen up in the front as the track would be tight enough as its pulled around the tight 9" radius. Wrong. In the pic you can see where the studs are hitting. I will be running the new track tighter

Thanks Steiner. I will be sure to double check mine again, but I don't believe I have any marks/damage caused by the studs?

I am strictly trail with very few high speed runs, and a 121 so maybe that is why I have gotten lucky?