duste
Extreme
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2008
- Messages
- 122
- Age
- 55
- Location
- New Glasgow, N.S. Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak
This was on another post but I thought I'd start a new one just for this problem. Here are the symtoms of this;
No action at the starter at all, nothing, acts like a bad ign. switch
The fuel pump does not come on when the key is turned
The starter relay may OR maynot check as normal ( this really threw me)
Code 43 on the dash, again sometimes not always.
The Fuel pump relay does click on and then off the way it should, but no pump.
The fault;
Inside the main wiring harness running along the left upper frame above the belt, has 3 multiple grounding blocks in it, one is a test point if you can find it as they are all burried in the harness and taped quite well. The test one is a small flat plug with 4 black wires and is above the driven clutch inside the harness. The second is under the water resevoirs, taped in the harness and hard to find, once you find it itès a great test spot to verify if you get all the grounds.
The 3rd, and my trouble is just ahead of the driven clutch, also in the harness and has 7 black wires in it, one 2 sizes lager then the rest. This was burnt and was no longer passing ground from all the components that are feed into it, which includes the fuel pump. I cut the plug out totally, slodered all 7 wires together , greesed the solder to prevent corrosion and then retaped the harness. If you feel along the harness the grounding pionts can be found and will need to be untaped to get access, but once you are there it is a great spot to start trouble shooting you electriacal trouble.
Hopefully no one will get stranded like I did and this post will solve somebody's trouble the way another post on here did for me. Thanks for all the responses regarding my posts.
I can't seem to down size a couple pics I wanted to post, so if anyone has this trouble in the future, PM me and I will be glad to Email them to you.
No action at the starter at all, nothing, acts like a bad ign. switch
The fuel pump does not come on when the key is turned
The starter relay may OR maynot check as normal ( this really threw me)
Code 43 on the dash, again sometimes not always.
The Fuel pump relay does click on and then off the way it should, but no pump.
The fault;
Inside the main wiring harness running along the left upper frame above the belt, has 3 multiple grounding blocks in it, one is a test point if you can find it as they are all burried in the harness and taped quite well. The test one is a small flat plug with 4 black wires and is above the driven clutch inside the harness. The second is under the water resevoirs, taped in the harness and hard to find, once you find it itès a great test spot to verify if you get all the grounds.
The 3rd, and my trouble is just ahead of the driven clutch, also in the harness and has 7 black wires in it, one 2 sizes lager then the rest. This was burnt and was no longer passing ground from all the components that are feed into it, which includes the fuel pump. I cut the plug out totally, slodered all 7 wires together , greesed the solder to prevent corrosion and then retaped the harness. If you feel along the harness the grounding pionts can be found and will need to be untaped to get access, but once you are there it is a great spot to start trouble shooting you electriacal trouble.
Hopefully no one will get stranded like I did and this post will solve somebody's trouble the way another post on here did for me. Thanks for all the responses regarding my posts.
I can't seem to down size a couple pics I wanted to post, so if anyone has this trouble in the future, PM me and I will be glad to Email them to you.
Crewchief47
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2006
- Messages
- 2,830
- Location
- McGregor, ON Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2008 Nytro MTX 45th
duste
Extreme
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2008
- Messages
- 122
- Age
- 55
- Location
- New Glasgow, N.S. Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak
This is the better post of this trouble, good luck guys.
After recieving an Email through this site form a guy with a similar problem but on a Venture I thought I'd bring this topic back up top incase this happens to somebody else and I'm sure as hell it will with all the attention it has already gotten. This is becomming more common as these sleds get older and could be a very expensive repair at a dealer if they charge you all the troubleshooting time, and considering it's a time only no-part cost repair that would really suck. Plus if this happens ona trial like it did to me you may need a DOO rider to try and tow you home, my tow came from another Yamaha thank God .
Here's to a great season.
After recieving an Email through this site form a guy with a similar problem but on a Venture I thought I'd bring this topic back up top incase this happens to somebody else and I'm sure as hell it will with all the attention it has already gotten. This is becomming more common as these sleds get older and could be a very expensive repair at a dealer if they charge you all the troubleshooting time, and considering it's a time only no-part cost repair that would really suck. Plus if this happens ona trial like it did to me you may need a DOO rider to try and tow you home, my tow came from another Yamaha thank God .
Here's to a great season.
dhkr123
Expert
During my crazy troubleshooting session (for which the problem turned out to be magnetized clutch weights throwing an EM field that disrupted the ECU....), learned that the wiring harness costs about $500....WTF!!! For $1.00 worth of wires!
Now have my wiring harness extra wrapped and shielded.
Layer 1: electric tape.
Layer 2: aluminum foil connected electrically to ground.
Layer 3: electric tape.
And in some special spots:
Layer 4: nylon reinforced black rubber hose.
Layer 5: electric tape.
Now have my wiring harness extra wrapped and shielded.
Layer 1: electric tape.
Layer 2: aluminum foil connected electrically to ground.
Layer 3: electric tape.
And in some special spots:
Layer 4: nylon reinforced black rubber hose.
Layer 5: electric tape.
This may sound stupid, but once found, how do you test to see if they are bad? Is it just a visual thing, or do you need to put a voltmeter on it?
duste
Extreme
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2008
- Messages
- 122
- Age
- 55
- Location
- New Glasgow, N.S. Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak
Once you locate the grounding blocks, there are 4 in the whole sled but it seems the 2 , 1 brown and 1 black one, by the primary clutch are the ones that are causing all the grief. Remove the cover ontop of the plug and if that is the trouble then it will be either corroded or burnt ontop. The Brodge style connector to link all the grounds together is what fails. You can remove the block completely and solder all the wires together and seal it well and that should end the trouble. The bottom plug in the last pic is what you are looking for and you can se the burnt area ontop. Hope this helps.
Thank You!
So Duste---When you talk about removing the plug altogether are you saying that you totally cut the plug out (like throw it in the can??) and soder the wires together or are you talking about fixing the wires and reconectiong them to the plug??? I got a fuel problem right now where you turn the key to activate the fuel relay and it actually never shuts off!! I get code 43 on the dash----would that be linked to this spot??
duste
Extreme
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2008
- Messages
- 122
- Age
- 55
- Location
- New Glasgow, N.S. Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak
heelingcowboy1 said:
Hi, I cut the plug out completely and soldered all the ground wires together, basically the plug takes 6 grounds and runs them into 1 larger ground. Because the 6 smaller wires are individual grounds for sensors, the fuel pump and some of the relays there are multiple malfuntions depending on which wires are corroded and not making contact. If you remove the airbox you will see 2 square capped plugs, one with 6 brown wires and 1 with 6 black wired, cut them loose form the harness and remove the black cover on each plug, if it's corroded then this may very well be your trouble and since it very easy to check and is a no-cost repair I would certainly look there for electrical headaches. Good luck and let me know you get along.
Well I tore into the wiring harness today and all my connectors look great!! No burn spots--nothing!! The only thing that I can think of is that I took my fuel relay and moved it to the farthest left postion so that I could get to it easier. It seems that everytime it has acted up and thrown code 43 its when I have been plowing through 3 feet of snow and maybe its getting wet?? I moved it back to the farthest right position to see if that would make a diffrence. Deffinition of Code 43: "The ECU is unable to monitor the battery voltage (an open circuit in the line of the ECU) What are the thoughts??? Possible problem or no?? 
There was a post here last week about a connector near the battery that was not sealed at all. This would allow water into the connector and corrode the terminals. It was a three pin white connector.
Crewchief47
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2006
- Messages
- 2,830
- Location
- McGregor, ON Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2008 Nytro MTX 45th
steiner said:
Yep, that one is on top of the starter selenoid.
unclearpine
Extreme
duste
Extreme
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2008
- Messages
- 122
- Age
- 55
- Location
- New Glasgow, N.S. Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak
Hi unclearpine, it's a poor system they have there and the older our sleds get the more common this grounding trouble will be. I've had a few emails now because of this but I'm glad to see it is saving some people alot of headaches and serv. charges. This caused me to be towed home for the first time in over 20 years, at least it was another Yamai that rescued me. Glad I could help.
4strokerpms
Newbie
Ground Block
Thanks for the post. I have a 2006 apex gt and after a 40 mile lake ride it stalled on me while i was getting the ramp on the trailer ready. I got no codes on the display and when i turned the key my high beam indicator would light up. Got it started a few minutes later and the next day after fooling around with the wires around the battery it seemed to run fine. Went for a short ride the day after and this time it stalled on me while i was going about 40 miles an hour and showed code 81 on the dash. Went to turn the key again and the blue high beam light would come on the relay clicked but no power to the fuel pump. The white ground block by the primary clutch was scorched. Soldered the wires together and changed the 10 amp fuse for the fuel pump relay and all is good again.
Thanks for the post. I have a 2006 apex gt and after a 40 mile lake ride it stalled on me while i was getting the ramp on the trailer ready. I got no codes on the display and when i turned the key my high beam indicator would light up. Got it started a few minutes later and the next day after fooling around with the wires around the battery it seemed to run fine. Went for a short ride the day after and this time it stalled on me while i was going about 40 miles an hour and showed code 81 on the dash. Went to turn the key again and the blue high beam light would come on the relay clicked but no power to the fuel pump. The white ground block by the primary clutch was scorched. Soldered the wires together and changed the 10 amp fuse for the fuel pump relay and all is good again.
