Attak/Apex Hours?

[Roost 'Er]

Hi there, tried doing a search and checking the FAQ but cant seem to find any info on the apex/attak if you can view the hours via the gauge.

Is this possible? Picking up a 2007 Attak GT and was just wondering what kind of hours are on the sled (3200Miles).

Donuts and Plugs are done, gotta do some more searches on what other maintenance we should do before next season but happy to have a Yamaha back in the stable.

 

[APEX 06]

Bushings in the a-arms and the steering block bushings. Check the W-arm

 

[bottlerocket]

Attack GT ~ didnt know they made a GT in the Attak.

 

[yamaha1973]

Attack GT ~ didnt know they made a GT in the Attak.

yep http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/produ ... /home.aspx

 

[bottlerocket]

Thanks for the pics i do remember them now.

 

[Roost 'Er]

Bushings in the a-arms and the steering block bushings. Check the W-arm

W-Arm looked good. Ill check the bushings once its home.

Anyone know if the machine records hours?

Like on a Cat, the hours is sent from the ECU so even if someone changed a speedo the hours of the ECU is displayed on the gauge. Would imagine Yamaha has some way of verifying how many hours on sled? Its very clean i don't disbelieve the miles just curiosity now why yamaha wouldn't have hours.

 

[snomobubl]

I have the same sled. Have been doing some maintenance on it this year as I hit 10,000 miles. Unfortunately I am not aware of an hours meter although one may exist.

I would recommend that you download the 2007 Apex/Attak service manual that is on the FAQ section of this forum - it is a great resource if you need to do some work on the machine.

Here are a few more things check out:

Idler wheels - The originals had non replaceable bearings and are prone to failing

Clutch side driveshaft bearing (Speedo bearing) - these get really gritty and wet and require clean and re-pack at the end of each season to prevent off season degradation. They can lock up if they have not been maintained in a couple of seasons. There is a DIY inspect, clean and repack thread on this site.

I am a little surprised donuts needed replacement at 3200 miles - mine hit about 5,000 before they were shot (also cracked the Y pipe) although others on the site had earier failures.

Check wire that plugs into top of mono shock to ensure it has not gotten damaged or ripped out. This has happened to a few folks on the site.

Most front suspension bushings are probably OK at 3200, the ones that take the most beating are the lower A Arm bushings in the bulkhead (the ones that are closest to the engine). They are thin and the shafts spin and wear these. I just replaced all of my front bushings and these ones were disintegrated. Periodic dis-assembly and greasing is required (every couple of seasons).

Also check the front arm in the rear suspension - these are prone to cracking and I discovered that mine was broken recently. Look for cracks in the horizontal tube that is high in the tunnel.

May not be a bad idea to check out the clutch ramp shoes on the secondary - these should still look good at 3200. If they are significantly worn there may be a few more miles on the sled than you are being told. Mine are in need of replacement.

The Attak/Apex is a great sled and the motor is awesome. There are a few things that you need to watch and maintain on them. I am hoping to squeak a few more years out of mine. I have done some repair/rebuild recently based on info from this site and user community. This site is an awesome source of info for the sled. Feel free to PM me if you need some help or have some questions.

 

[snomobubl]

Did a PDF search of the owners manual and did not find anything on "engine hours", "engine hour meter", or "hour meter".

Not sure if it exists or I am just not using the right search criteria.

 

[Roost 'Er]

Thanks for the advice.

I just downloaded to manual yesterday haven't had a chance to read it yet though.

Idler wheels look good.
Ill inspect the drive bearing once i get it home.
Suspension arms looked good, but im going to double check the W arm.

Wire for the EC im not sure if mounting is stock it had like 10 black zip ties holding it tight to the arm is that how yamaha does it?

Primary rollers looked good didn't look too close on secondary, primary had lots of sharpie marks on it, looks like to line it up. Not sure if these are factory or not?

Still working on getting further service history, it was supposed to all be done at Yamaha but dealer was closed today so im going to call them again tomorrow.

Thanks again for all the advice, the sled looks exceptionally clean so im not worried about validity just curiosity at this point verifying everything i have seen on sled. It is for my father, he's mighty excited may be a long off season.

I have the same sled. Have been doing some maintenance on it this year as I hit 10,000 miles. Unfortunately I am not aware of an hours meter although one may exist.

I would recommend that you download the 2007 Apex/Attak service manual that is on the FAQ section of this forum - it is a great resource if you need to do some work on the machine.

Here are a few more things check out:

Idler wheels - The originals had non replaceable bearings and are prone to failing

Clutch side driveshaft bearing (Speedo bearing) - these get really gritty and wet and require clean and re-pack at the end of each season to prevent off season degradation. They can lock up if they have not been maintained in a couple of seasons. There is a DIY inspect, clean and repack thread on this site.

I am a little surprised donuts needed replacement at 3200 miles - mine hit about 5,000 before they were shot (also cracked the Y pipe) although others on the site had earier failures.

Check wire that plugs into top of mono shock to ensure it has not gotten damaged or ripped out. This has happened to a few folks on the site.

Most front suspension bushings are probably OK at 3200, the ones that take the most beating are the lower A Arm bushings in the bulkhead (the ones that are closest to the engine). They are thin and the shafts spin and wear these. I just replaced all of my front bushings and these ones were disintegrated. Periodic dis-assembly and greasing is required (every couple of seasons).

Also check the front arm in the rear suspension - these are prone to cracking and I discovered that mine was broken recently. Look for cracks in the horizontal tube that is high in the tunnel.

May not be a bad idea to check out the clutch ramp shoes on the secondary - these should still look good at 3200. If they are significantly worn there may be a few more miles on the sled than you are being told. Mine are in need of replacement.

The Attak/Apex is a great sled and the motor is awesome. There are a few things that you need to watch and maintain on them. I am hoping to squeak a few more years out of mine. I have done some repair/rebuild recently based on info from this site and user community. This site is an awesome source of info for the sled. Feel free to PM me if you need some help or have some questions.

 

[snomobubl]

Thanks for the advice.

I just downloaded to manual yesterday haven't had a chance to read it yet though.

Idler wheels look good.
Ill inspect the drive bearing once i get it home.
Suspension arms looked good, but im going to double check the W arm.

Wire for the EC im not sure if mounting is stock it had like 10 black zip ties holding it tight to the arm is that how yamaha does it?

Primary rollers looked good didn't look too close on secondary, primary had lots of sharpie marks on it, looks like to line it up. Not sure if these are factory or not?

Still working on getting further service history, it was supposed to all be done at Yamaha but dealer was closed today so im going to call them again tomorrow.

Thanks again for all the advice, the sled looks exceptionally clean so im not worried about validity just curiosity at this point verifying everything i have seen on sled. It is for my father, he's mighty excited may be a long off season.

Drive bearing is relatively inexpensive easy enough to replace if needed. Pop the seal and look at it - you will see allot of dirt, krud and moisture gets in there. I would probably pop it out, remove both seals, inspect and if OK, re-lube and install OR replace.

Regarding the suspension arms, check out the posts on the Mono Beef UP from Welterracer with pictures - you will see a picture of where the front arm (not the W arm) usually cracks. I have included a pic of where mine broke.

The EC wire is zip tied by Yamaha from the tunnel to the shock. The wire and connector that protrudes from the top of the shock can sometimes get damaged and pulled out from ice/debris - especially if it was not secured properly on re-install of skid.

Not sure about sharpie marks on primary, may be factory, may not. What I was referring to was the 3 black ramp shoes that make contact with the helix on the secondary clutch. I have attached 2 pics from my secondary at 10,000 miles - 1) Ramp shoe with excessive wear 2) Ramp shoe broken off.

You may want to ask dealer if they are aware of hours meter - maybe they can tap into that from the ECU somehow.

Good Luck!