Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
I have had those moments.
Your talking about the allen bolts located under the plugs. Right? On similar arrangements, I used a small air grinder and ground flats in the bolt's head and used needle nose vise grips. But you may be confined too much for even that. Also, Allen-heads don't give you a lot of base material to grind into. So, I would grind off the head and then once things are apart, you can get the vise grips on the remaining part of the bolt. But, ... get some penetrating oil in there ASAP and on these parts you can use heat, once they are isolated. There may not even be enough bolt left to get on with vise grips, once your done grinding. In that case, you are down to drilling and tapping, etc.
Your talking about the allen bolts located under the plugs. Right? On similar arrangements, I used a small air grinder and ground flats in the bolt's head and used needle nose vise grips. But you may be confined too much for even that. Also, Allen-heads don't give you a lot of base material to grind into. So, I would grind off the head and then once things are apart, you can get the vise grips on the remaining part of the bolt. But, ... get some penetrating oil in there ASAP and on these parts you can use heat, once they are isolated. There may not even be enough bolt left to get on with vise grips, once your done grinding. In that case, you are down to drilling and tapping, etc.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Looks like we were posting at the same time. Glad you got it. You are right about this one not being for timid mechanics.
ELLIOTlakeRX1
Newbie
OK so i have my gaskets, what beautiful little things i paid $18 each for.. not...
But i still cant figure out how to get the y-pipes back far enough to give me enough room to slip the gaskets on the flex pipes?
When i pull on the muffler it feels like something is catching inside the tunnel. Is there a trick?
But i still cant figure out how to get the y-pipes back far enough to give me enough room to slip the gaskets on the flex pipes?
When i pull on the muffler it feels like something is catching inside the tunnel. Is there a trick?
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
The muffler is bolted to the tunnel. Mid length of the pipes to the muffler there are a couple bolts. You may want to take a look at the exploded view I attachd below. Look at item #s 15 and 24. There are 4 Item # 24s.
Did your remove the bolts that attach the Y-pipe to the frame?
scottytohotty
Newbie
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2009
- Messages
- 12
My mechanic said that they were shims from a v-max clutch kit, If you ask your dealer im sure he has heard of these shims I think all the rx-1's rattle when idling.
There is clip on the top of each Y pipe that prevents you from being able to pull it too far back. To remove a Y pipe you actually have to remove the 4 flex joints first, and then pull the Y pipes FORWARD to disengage them from the retainer, then they can be pulled backwards and out fo the tunnel.
ELLIOTlakeRX1
Newbie
Alright its backtogether, donuts changed, fired it up let it warm up and i took it for a quick ride, still backfiring like before, exact same thing
I dont have an idea anymore other than maybe my carbs?
I dont have an idea anymore other than maybe my carbs?
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
You did adjust the throttle cable to preclude TORS activation. Correct? Did we bypass TORS for a test to see if it was causing the Backfire? Did you adjust it per the Operating Manual?
You are only running 87 octane fuel. Correct? They do not run well on > 87 octane.
The Airbox to Carb Boots have to be fully sealed. Did you get those fixed so that there is zero leakage?
You are only running 87 octane fuel. Correct? They do not run well on > 87 octane.
The Airbox to Carb Boots have to be fully sealed. Did you get those fixed so that there is zero leakage?
ELLIOTlakeRX1 said:
There is your problem your carbs were sucking in junk because of the the no seal on the air box and need to be cleaned. First off take your air box off buy yourself four M4 .07 pitch 25mm Allen socket head screws and change the screws that are on the air box clamp. While doing that get some high heat silicone and glue those clamps in place. This is makes putting the air box on with a good seal a snap and the clamps don't move around on you and there is no Phillips screw to cause you grief. Next take your carb rack off and clean your carbs and set your air screws to 2 turns out from a light seat. You might as well change the phillips screws out on your carb bowls to while your at it. You will need to buy 16 m4 .07 pitch 10mm allen socket head screws and a couple more for spares just in case. Some carb cleaner there is pages in the Ty tech link up above under engine on the carb cleaning job. Your going to know this sled very well real quick but it will be worth it.
If you need help just ask were here to help you bud! ELLIOTlakeRX1
Newbie
Yeah i did adjust the throttle cable but i put it back to 2mm of play so that is set right.
I run 91 Octane, but i did mix a bit more then half a tank of 91 with bit less than half 89 Octane, so i should be somewhere in the neighbourhood of 90.2 or something. I dont think its much difference.
I was really afraid to take the carbs off because i looked at them and all i thought was.. wow WTF is that!
im 22 and have never owned something with a carburator before.. well other than my Kodiak 450, but i dont need to fix it it never broke!
Anyhow.. So am i going to need any special tools for this? I will tackle the carbs tonight. Im just afraid im going to need to sync them and i dont want to have to get that done.
I run 91 Octane, but i did mix a bit more then half a tank of 91 with bit less than half 89 Octane, so i should be somewhere in the neighbourhood of 90.2 or something. I dont think its much difference.
I was really afraid to take the carbs off because i looked at them and all i thought was.. wow WTF is that!
im 22 and have never owned something with a carburator before.. well other than my Kodiak 450, but i dont need to fix it it never broke!
Anyhow.. So am i going to need any special tools for this? I will tackle the carbs tonight. Im just afraid im going to need to sync them and i dont want to have to get that done.
ELLIOTlakeRX1 said:
I took mine off to clean once and the wifes sled three times never had to sync them they are both running good. Compressed air is nice when cleaning the carbs a tooth brush wooden toothpick and a small piece of wire to clean jets. I really do suggest changing the phillips screws on both the clamps and the float bowls as you will probably strip a couple taking them off the bowl. Clean everything very well and once you flip or take off the rack, I just flipped mine and tied the rack to the handle bar, stuff some paper towel in the intake to the engine to make sure you dont drop anything in there. To take the carbs rack off from the intake boots your going to need a 3mm allen wrench. Make sure to silicone your clamps in place and let it dry while your doing this job as well. Oh yea from now on just run 87 regular gas in it no need or benefit to run higher.
ELLIOTlakeRX1
Newbie
Ok cool well im going to definitly try this.
ANything specific i should be looking for when i do this?
And what kind of silicone? my friend manages an autoparts store and it has a shop in thebasement (where i fix my machine) and he has Permatex sealants. He has anerobic, clear, red, blue, black and copper colour sealants, which im guessing are for differnet temps. Which should i use and you are saying to put this stuff on the OUTSIDE of the boots correct, on the clamps to hold them in place am i understanding you right?
I tried to find a post detailing the cleaning of the carbs but i couldnt find much other than one to rejet for the ECP kit but it wasnt much help at all..
ANything specific i should be looking for when i do this?
And what kind of silicone? my friend manages an autoparts store and it has a shop in thebasement (where i fix my machine) and he has Permatex sealants. He has anerobic, clear, red, blue, black and copper colour sealants, which im guessing are for differnet temps. Which should i use and you are saying to put this stuff on the OUTSIDE of the boots correct, on the clamps to hold them in place am i understanding you right?
I tried to find a post detailing the cleaning of the carbs but i couldnt find much other than one to rejet for the ECP kit but it wasnt much help at all..
I used the red high heat silicone for making gaskets and yes on the outside where they normally sit once done they cant move on you making the job of putting on the air box a snap. Get the allen screws as well now would be the best time to change them. Here is how I did mine.
(1) Take the air box off, change the air box clamps screws to allen screws, silicone the clamps in place by loosening them and pushing them on further out of your way put the silicone on and pull them into place let them dry. Now would be a good time to clean out your screen and foam filter as well.
(2) Undo the white electrical connector (front of carbs) and the tors connectors (greenish ones on top of carbs) and take off the two black tie straps holding the tors wires in place just push the tab down on them and they come apart.
(3) You can now put some paper towels under the carb rack or try and catch the fuel from the bowls by draining them with the allen head drain plug located in the front of the carbs and then reinstall the drain plugs. Loosen all four of the allen screws holding the carb rack in place onto the intake boots with a 3mm allen wrench.
(4) By pushing down and up wiggling the carb rack wiggle it out of the intake boots, then flip the whole rack up and towards the back of the sled moving gas lines and anti freeze lines out of your way but don't remove them. Tie in place with a rope to the handle bar. When done the carb rack air box end will be pointing to the brake side handle bar and at an angle with the float bowls very accessible. Once done loosely stuff some clean paper towels in your intake boots so nothing can be dropped in there.
(5) Now your ready to take your float bowls off and I suggest doing one at a time press down firmly with your phillips screw driver and gradually add more torque to loosen the screws off be careful not to drop any and a magnetic screw driver tip is handy for this job. The float bowls will be kind of sticky to take off because of the o ring on the main jet. Now clean your jets all three the main, the pilot and the power jet and of course you float bowls. Now if the o ring is damaged you can replace them with new or leave them off if your not doing any major climbing. Spray some carb cleaner in all the jet holes and under the floats in other words clean everything. Put the clean jets back in place and put the bowl back on with your new allen head screws. Do this to each carb and clean everything meticulously as you don't want to take the carbs off again if you don't have too.
(6) Now take a narrow slotted screw driver and turn your fuel screw in to a light seat then back out for two turns. They are located in the front by the black hose with the carbs upside down. Make sure two turns out exactly. Do this for each carb while your working on each one separately.
(7) Now put things back together in a reverse order make sure your fuel lines or coolant lines are not pinched when putting things back together. Take your time and do a good job!
(1) Take the air box off, change the air box clamps screws to allen screws, silicone the clamps in place by loosening them and pushing them on further out of your way put the silicone on and pull them into place let them dry. Now would be a good time to clean out your screen and foam filter as well.
(2) Undo the white electrical connector (front of carbs) and the tors connectors (greenish ones on top of carbs) and take off the two black tie straps holding the tors wires in place just push the tab down on them and they come apart.
(3) You can now put some paper towels under the carb rack or try and catch the fuel from the bowls by draining them with the allen head drain plug located in the front of the carbs and then reinstall the drain plugs. Loosen all four of the allen screws holding the carb rack in place onto the intake boots with a 3mm allen wrench.
(4) By pushing down and up wiggling the carb rack wiggle it out of the intake boots, then flip the whole rack up and towards the back of the sled moving gas lines and anti freeze lines out of your way but don't remove them. Tie in place with a rope to the handle bar. When done the carb rack air box end will be pointing to the brake side handle bar and at an angle with the float bowls very accessible. Once done loosely stuff some clean paper towels in your intake boots so nothing can be dropped in there.
(5) Now your ready to take your float bowls off and I suggest doing one at a time press down firmly with your phillips screw driver and gradually add more torque to loosen the screws off be careful not to drop any and a magnetic screw driver tip is handy for this job. The float bowls will be kind of sticky to take off because of the o ring on the main jet. Now clean your jets all three the main, the pilot and the power jet and of course you float bowls. Now if the o ring is damaged you can replace them with new or leave them off if your not doing any major climbing. Spray some carb cleaner in all the jet holes and under the floats in other words clean everything. Put the clean jets back in place and put the bowl back on with your new allen head screws. Do this to each carb and clean everything meticulously as you don't want to take the carbs off again if you don't have too.
(6) Now take a narrow slotted screw driver and turn your fuel screw in to a light seat then back out for two turns. They are located in the front by the black hose with the carbs upside down. Make sure two turns out exactly. Do this for each carb while your working on each one separately.
(7) Now put things back together in a reverse order make sure your fuel lines or coolant lines are not pinched when putting things back together. Take your time and do a good job!
ELLIOTlakeRX1
Newbie
NICE thank you man
Guess im going to learn how carbs work afterall!!!
You guys are all amazing help. Can't believe the input ive got from everyone.
I will post back with results or questions when they arise!
Guess im going to learn how carbs work afterall!!!
You guys are all amazing help. Can't believe the input ive got from everyone.
I will post back with results or questions when they arise!
