It won’t be a issue Travis. Have had a 1/8 plate on outside my tunnel and rr shaft 3 seasons now since stock failure and no issues. I believe bolts with rr shaft are a lot longer than stockers.
ROCKERDAN
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Another Question for Travis/Cannondale.
I see that my '18 has a small add-on plate UNDER tunnel(backside) It does not look very thick tho, but Im fairly certain my '12 procross did not have any extra plate there.
So, with the upgraded shaft, Bushing and Bolts off a RR model...It seems to me if the shaft and bushings/bolts cannot break, the need for more plate "MAY" not be as needed for normal trail riders....It seems like the plate is a better aid if you run stock shaft/bushings/bolts.
thoughts?
thnx guys
Dan
I see that my '18 has a small add-on plate UNDER tunnel(backside) It does not look very thick tho, but Im fairly certain my '12 procross did not have any extra plate there.
So, with the upgraded shaft, Bushing and Bolts off a RR model...It seems to me if the shaft and bushings/bolts cannot break, the need for more plate "MAY" not be as needed for normal trail riders....It seems like the plate is a better aid if you run stock shaft/bushings/bolts.
thoughts?
thnx guys
Dan
They all have a thin plate on inside. I replaced mine. Made them go down and around the bottom of running board and added some screws there also. Not sure what grade steel that stock plate is but it's very thin and easily bent like with two fingers. Felt like China to me...
swampcat
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Two fingers... China ? I better stop now. Does your custom made shaft have anything to do with this ?
The lower shock mount shaft? No that’s Swedish I believe and didn’t put that in till last year.
ROCKERDAN
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Thanks Cannon.....
I would assume that stock thin plate on backside is ALUM isnt it?
Either way, it sounds like its not enough.
It looks like Travis's Add-On plate to outer will be a great aid in strengthening tunnel area.
Do you feel like the RR bolts in conjunction with Travis plate, will have the end of bolt aligning with end of bushing? I know Travis is going a different route with his shaft setup, But I wonder about the RR bolt and his plate working together as im going to go with the RR shaft/bolts. I know you said yours has been fine so far, but just wondered about this. I would like to have the bolts not lining up inside at the end, which would be wear it would want to shear/break.
Thanks
I would assume that stock thin plate on backside is ALUM isnt it?
Either way, it sounds like its not enough.
It looks like Travis's Add-On plate to outer will be a great aid in strengthening tunnel area.
Do you feel like the RR bolts in conjunction with Travis plate, will have the end of bolt aligning with end of bushing? I know Travis is going a different route with his shaft setup, But I wonder about the RR bolt and his plate working together as im going to go with the RR shaft/bolts. I know you said yours has been fine so far, but just wondered about this. I would like to have the bolts not lining up inside at the end, which would be wear it would want to shear/break.
Thanks
hibshman25
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Just curious as to why you are opting for the RR setup...or maybe you simply purchased before I posted up what I'm doing. I'd be curious to learn what would sway someone to go RR vs my offering.
I see no advantage of the RR setup vs yours Travis. Other than it’s been tested more. You eliminated the stress point and steel tube is definitely stronger than a slightly thicker shaft as rr is. You guys do know that even the RR shafts have snapped. Happened to a buddy with Cat turbo last season. But he didn’t have his tunnel properly fixed from previous damage. Broke where the longer bolt ended well past collar.
No back plate inside tunnel is steel but cheap Chinese quality. Bushing is eliminated with Travis design.
ROCKERDAN
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PM coming Trav....thnx
Joe ltx-le
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This is a good conversation. I believe Travis idea of a steel sleeve is a good idea. Trying to wrap my head around why the aluminum rr shaft would be any better. Other then weight and that’s not talking much weight difference.
I’ve got a steel replica being made of the stock aluminum cross shaft. Using the stock “spacers”.
Could be another barn of parts idea Travis
I’ve got a steel replica being made of the stock aluminum cross shaft. Using the stock “spacers”.
Could be another barn of parts idea Travis
snowfever27
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I know I’m going to buy the BOP version. After our initial sled purchases it’s been an all out battle to get Yamaha and Arctic Cat to help us. But Travis has hooked all of us up on numerous occasions, for dirt cheap. He’s getting my money. He makes solid fixes affordable, well before we see any changes or updates from the factory. I just need to decide between Black and bare aluminum.
Joseph Levandoski
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OK, you all have lost me...
Is anything needed to run this new plate or do I need longer bolts?
Is anything needed to run this new plate or do I need longer bolts?
I am no Engineer but rule is that bolt depth of 1 and 1/2 times the bolt dia gives full strength. So a 1/8 in shorter (thickness of plate) is not going to hurt a thing. All these stock failures and never once did I hear of bolt shearing or being ripped out. As a matter of fact if still using stock bolts and shaft a shorter bolt length would probably help since bolt would end IN the collar rather than exactly at its end which is definitely a shear point. No way I would just get the plates though. Get the shaft kit too.
hibshman25
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Looks like black is the leading color for the saver plates, so this will be the color I stock them in.
As a special to TY, I think I'm going to do a one time pre order with color choice. Once I get pricing finalized I will post ordering details.
Another potential issue with the colors is rivet color. I prefer to use a multi grip aluminum rivets with a steel shank, and I source them in black or natural. I would likely provide black ones for all the coated plates.
Anyone know if cat rivets are available in colors?
As a special to TY, I think I'm going to do a one time pre order with color choice. Once I get pricing finalized I will post ordering details.
Another potential issue with the colors is rivet color. I prefer to use a multi grip aluminum rivets with a steel shank, and I source them in black or natural. I would likely provide black ones for all the coated plates.
Anyone know if cat rivets are available in colors?
