sledfvr
Pro
My bender stage 3 is letting oil past the turbo and into the charge tube. I know this is pretty common, but I can even smell it in the motor. Do I need to put a jet in the line to restrict oil flow? If so what size. It went through a half a quart of oil on one ride.
HURRICANE
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2007
- Messages
- 2,092
- Reaction score
- 1,814
- Points
- 1,413
- Location
- Prescott Ont.
- Website
- www.hurricaneperformance.ca
I use a .035 restrictor in the oil line on a ball bearing turbo and the drain should be down on the turbo as it is positioned on the chassis
Jonny Rocket
TY 4 Stroke Guru
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 766
- Reaction score
- 1
- Points
- 893
- Location
- Colville, Washington
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2008 MXC boosted Nitro
There are some people putting a 50 jet in the return line. I have a 90 in there now and can still smell the oil. I will be putting a 50 in soon.
J.
J.
sledfvr
Pro
are you putting the 50 in the return line or the supply line?
spray25
TY 4 Stroke God
supply.
Ted Jannetty
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2003
- Messages
- 2,010
- Reaction score
- 15
- Points
- 1,198
- Location
- Waterbury Ct.
- Website
- www.jannettyracing.com
sledfvr said:My bender stage 3 is letting oil past the turbo and into the charge tube. I know this is pretty common, but I can even smell it in the motor. Do I need to put a jet in the line to restrict oil flow? If so what size. It went through a half a quart of oil on one ride.
The first thing I suggest is a proper compression and leak down test.
Second, make absolutly sure your oil pump is running, there have been a few that have blown fuses or failed completely.
Crankcase breather must be clear and clean.
The Bender kits already have a restrictor in the feed line and this sounds like a new problem on an already existing system so I doubt it is an oil feed problem.
Ted.
spray25
TY 4 Stroke God
If the restrictor was not small enough it is very possible that the seals in yout turbo are shot. Been there done that.
Jonny Rocket
TY 4 Stroke Guru
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 766
- Reaction score
- 1
- Points
- 893
- Location
- Colville, Washington
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2008 MXC boosted Nitro
sledfvr said:are you putting the 50 in the return line or the supply line?
Sorry. Mistyped. Supply it is.
J.
sledfvr
Pro
how do I do a leakdown test, and what tools do I need. Also my compression testor doesn't fit that small of a spark plug hole. I guess I need an adapter. Sled runs like crazy seems to have lots of power.
shanksRX-1
Expert
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2006
- Messages
- 395
- Reaction score
- 25
- Points
- 928
- Location
- Pennellville, NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2010 Apex
- LOCATION
- Pennellville, NY
If the system was functional and now started putting oil in the charge tube check your oil pump. If you have one of the black oil pumps they will stop if even the smallest debris gets into them. I fought with mine for a full week only to find out it was a bad oil pump. I replaced it with one of the newer white reverso oil pumps. Also you could be smelling oil burning too because it is probly dumping oil into the exhaust and the charge tube. Every time I had oil in the charge tube I also had it comming out the exhaust and stinking...
To check it take a soda bottle or clear bottle so you can see the oil in it and cut it in half and put about 1/2 full of oil. disconnect your oil return line at the bottom of the turbo. put a piece of hose or gas line on the end of the return line that you just un hooked so you can bend it down and stick it in the bottle of oil. Turn on your key. The pump sould come right on and suck that oil right down at a steady rate.
To check it take a soda bottle or clear bottle so you can see the oil in it and cut it in half and put about 1/2 full of oil. disconnect your oil return line at the bottom of the turbo. put a piece of hose or gas line on the end of the return line that you just un hooked so you can bend it down and stick it in the bottle of oil. Turn on your key. The pump sould come right on and suck that oil right down at a steady rate.
Ted Jannetty
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2003
- Messages
- 2,010
- Reaction score
- 15
- Points
- 1,198
- Location
- Waterbury Ct.
- Website
- www.jannettyracing.com
shanksRX-1 said:If the system was functional and now started putting oil in the charge tube check your oil pump. If you have one of the black oil pumps they will stop if even the smallest debris gets into them. I fought with mine for a full week only to find out it was a bad oil pump. I replaced it with one of the newer white reverso oil pumps. Also you could be smelling oil burning too because it is probly dumping oil into the exhaust and the charge tube. Every time I had oil in the charge tube I also had it comming out the exhaust and stinking...
To check it take a soda bottle or clear bottle so you can see the oil in it and cut it in half and put about 1/2 full of oil. disconnect your oil return line at the bottom of the turbo. put a piece of hose or gas line on the end of the return line that you just un hooked so you can bend it down and stick it in the bottle of oil. Turn on your key. The pump sould come right on and suck that oil right down at a steady rate.
Excellent Information about the different pumps didn't know that they used 2 different designs.
Ted.
Ted Jannetty
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2003
- Messages
- 2,010
- Reaction score
- 15
- Points
- 1,198
- Location
- Waterbury Ct.
- Website
- www.jannettyracing.com
sledfvr said:how do I do a leakdown test, and what tools do I need. Also my compression testor doesn't fit that small of a spark plug hole. I guess I need an adapter. Sled runs like crazy seems to have lots of power.
You will need a Motorcycle compression gauge and a leak down tester and a compressor with at least 100 psi.
A number of people have asked "What is a LEAK DOWN test?" and "Can I do it myself?". First, let me explain the concept. We already use a compression test to determine an engines condiditon. the problem with this test is that there are too many variables. It can only be used to check engine condition by comparing cylinders to each other or a past norm. Variables such as cam profile, engine cranking speed etc, will affect the readings.
A leak down tester uses air from a compressor and measures the rate at which it leaks through the engine. This is done with the engine not running and the beauty of this is that toy can find the source of the leakage by listening for the escaped air.
Tools need are a leakdown tester, and an air compressor. The tester is available from Milton at about $60.00. Compressor should be at least 2hp and deliver 100psi.
Procedure: Remove spark plugs. Set engine to TDC #1. Calibrate test gauge per the instructions. Lock engine so it can not turn. Conect hose to spark plug hole, Conect pressurized gauge to hose connection. Read leakage and listen to the carbs, exhaust pipe and crankcase vent to dertimine where the leaks are.
Do same test on rest of cylinders. Remember to set TDC of each piston for compression stroke.
This place is right around the corner from me http://www.tools-plus.com/milton-s1257.html
Ted.
Similar threads
- Replies
- 24
- Views
- 2K
- Replies
- 7
- Views
- 3K
- Replies
- 8
- Views
- 1K
- Replies
- 6
- Views
- 3K
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.