RJH
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
If a roller went faster that an aftermarket helix with buttons..it was because the roller ..jiust happen to be a better angle for the sled..not the rollers.
Rash
Expert
I think, probably a lot more to gain in helix and spring configurations than roller vs button, so yes, better spent money...BUT.. since i don't mind paying 300$ to get to good settings FASTER, then maybe a roller will help me get there easier???... i don't have a lot of time or experience in clutching, so i would like to get faster to a good setup for me.. and the guys that is helping me seems very used to setuping with rollers.. and last time, i had a rocket.. so ...
the jury is still out on it..
unless i bite the bullet and spend the hours to get the clutching right.. wich will be long since i am a beginner..
I had a Ulmer setup stage 2 and barelly saw any change.. so i want more..
or maybe a yamcharger could be in the air..

the jury is still out on it..
unless i bite the bullet and spend the hours to get the clutching right.. wich will be long since i am a beginner..
I had a Ulmer setup stage 2 and barelly saw any change.. so i want more..
or maybe a yamcharger could be in the air..


stone88
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
RJH said:If a roller went faster that an aftermarket helix with buttons..it was because the roller ..jiust happen to be a better angle for the sled..not the rollers.
When equally tuned the rollers will out perform the button with much smoother shifting and backshift.
Essarex
Pro
Button and roller clutches work on exactly the same principle. The plastic button sliding on the smooth aluminum helix ramp is a bearing in its own right, and quite slippery when it remains cool. Aaen did lots of testing on race cars using the CVT and it was there that he discovered the weak point for button clutches. As they heated up late in the race (summer temps on hot asphalt) the button would bind on the aluminum ramp and impeded the up and down shifting, thereby costing the racecar precious seconds out of the power sweet spot. Aaen began teflon coating his helixes to prevent the binding, and eventually developed a roller bearing to solve the problem once and forall.
I was a firm believer in rollers until I realized how easy it was to get a button tuned in based on all the factory development and bench racer info. Install a roller and you are pretty much on your own to find the right combination of tuning parts to get you back to the factory button level. It can be done of course, but for 99% of us, button heat is not a problem.
I was a firm believer in rollers until I realized how easy it was to get a button tuned in based on all the factory development and bench racer info. Install a roller and you are pretty much on your own to find the right combination of tuning parts to get you back to the factory button level. It can be done of course, but for 99% of us, button heat is not a problem.
Similar threads
- Replies
- 19
- Views
- 6K
- Replies
- 46
- Views
- 7K