best time to change oil?

[LazyBastard]

I'm not saying it is, its just that YOU argued against the change filter and start method, but you yourself advocate leaving the filter. Remember that the old oil in the filter has run for 1000-2000 miles, and based on the volume of oil, it would have accumulated MUCH more contamination than you would accumulate by running the engine AT IDLE for (through the whole 8 months storage), 1h20m (assuming that you run it for 10 minutes once a month for 8 months).

The oil filter holds 0.2L. Assuming an average rpm of 7000 and average speed of 65 mph, we're looking at 15.4 hours at 7000 rpm. 7000(rpm) x 60(min/hr) x 15.4(hours) x 0.2(L) = 1293600, lets call this number the "contamination factor".

Now we have a contamination factor of 1.3(hr) x 1300(rpm) x 60(min/hr) x 3(L) = 304200 for change all and start method.


Your method of changing the oil, leaving the filter, and not starting, leaves 4.25 times the level of contamination in the engine AT THE END OF THE YEAR.... on average (because at the beginning of the year the contamination is relatively zero), that is 8.5 times the contamination.

 

[DYNAREX]

uhhh,ok
if you say so
im just saying that if the filter is a pain in the but to change for some guys,its not that important to do-draining and cleaning the oil tank is much more crucial
the reason starting it and letting run a while isnt good is that it tends to carbon up the pistons and rings-thereby contaminating the oil faster
thats why "highway miles" are less abusive than "city" miles
this has been my experience in the past on all my engines not just the rx1

 

[Thunderbox]

Change the oil and filter after the last ride of the year. Start it up and run it to coat engine internals and then don't start it again untill you are ready to use it next season. The byproduct of combustion is water and you don't need any of that in your engine. Normal use will produce the same water but your oil temp will get high enough to evaporate it in nomal use. Charge the battery with a battery charger Max 2 amp each month it is not used.

This is the same procedure for a motorcycle, lawnmower, snowblower and snowmobile. It is way more important to keep the battery charged on the snowmobiles and snowblowers because of the warm weather they are stored in. Warm weather causes the battery acid to be more active and self discharge occurs much faster on a warm battery than a cold one.

 

[Bob Miller]

At the end of the season change your oil and filter ( I use synthetic oil ) Because after you change it you want to warm it up and coat the engines internals with the new synthetic oil that is in it. The synthetic oil puts a good coating on all the metal surfaces and does not break down over time like petroleum based oils, and it has the ability to suspend harmful particles. Then next winter your all ready to go for the whole winter on this one oil change. I've been doing this for the past ten years in motorcycles and ATV's without any issues, and I will now do the same in the Warrior 8) I change the oil and filter once a season on the bike's and ATV.

 

[RX1Jim]

I would highly reccommend fogging all engines prior to storage. Fogging a 4 stroke will not and cannot cause any damage. To get the best protection aginst corrosion from the water vapor in the air, all the interior engine surfaces should get a light coat of oil, fogging is the only way to do it. Putting oil in the spark plug holes will only coat the cylinders, rings and pistons and poorly at best. After performing all end of season maintenance and prior to covering my sleds for the warm and humid days of summer, I fog the engine, remove the belt and hose down the engine compartment and skid with WD40. It acts as a great preservative, my 93 exciter with 11k miles looks better that it did on teh showroom (partially due to my dealer being a slob). Just my opinion!

 

[ger]

wow I did not think this post would bring so much attention.

Anyway WHY do the Magazines say not to fog a 4 stroke .I don't want to discredit anyone on this site, I am sure you guys know more that me , but it is confusing when we have Yamaha saying one thing and our guys saying the opposite, not the mags are saying one and our guys saying another .. how do we know what is the right way?

 

[impalapower]

I don't know why it would not be recommended not to fog an engine. Fogging, essentially, oiling everything with a fine mist to preserve the engine and all internal components is the ideal thing to do. Mix up some fuel stabilizer, dump it in the tank, go riding, change the oil and filter, jack up back of sled, run cold water from hose to heat exchanger, run sled and get good and hot, fog the engine for several minutes, then give it full shot fog in all four carbs til the engine dies and don't start til next season.

 

[DYNAREX]

DONT FORGET TO SOAK EVERYTHING IN SILICONE SPRAY!!
STOPS THE ALUM FROM DISCOLORING AND LOOKS REAL COOOOOOL