Bleeding Brakes NIGHTMARE!

[Paystar]

Now I crack the bleeder and when I push fluid up it’s coming out behind the bleeder screw going all over the place

 

[Sevey]

I have done this a few times without a syringe or a type of pump. Obviously if you have these things and know what you are doing they are a better route.

You still have air in the system or worse - are introducing air into the system.

Here are some things I have learned the hard way when messing with these brakes.
-when the caliper is split sometimes it makes sense to pop the pistons out and clean everything real good - before re installing the pistons, fill the cavity with brake fluid so it squishes out when you push the piston in. This way, there is not an empty cavity with air that must be exhumed when you begin purging the system
-Once the system is back together and the reservoir is full - I always prime the brake a number of times and crack the bolt right at the brake assembly. If there is air way up high in the system it will vent it. Only then, will it make pushing the fluid down low possible - so the lower vent will do its thing.
-keep working the lower vent a several times by pumping the brakes - holding it - then crack the vent, and then retighten (quickly).
-brake fluid will be everywhere but put some rags around to catch it.

That should get you close to perfect firm brakes.

In the future - when I have the caliper off and apart - use a wire around the brake handle to keep it fully closed against the handlebar. That way fluid will not drain out out of the line as bad and is quicker to refill when the time comes.
MS

 

[DennyTuna]

In the future - when I have the caliper off and apart - use a wire around the brake handle to keep it fully closed against the handlebar. That way fluid will not drain out out of the line as bad and is quicker to refill when the time comes.

This is so true.

 

[sideshowBob]

I have had the brake off my SW a couple times and just bled it like you would a normal brake system and it was stubborn but did work....lucky I guess.

 

[REDLINE 1]

Mine was a little tough as well. There was a post on here somewhere where it said after filling the system as best as you can zip tie the lever to the bar and let it sit for a few hours/ overnight. Sure enough I could see a few bubbles every now and then Ended up working for me. May have to add some fluid to the cup while air works its way out

 

[MrSled]

In the future - when I have the caliper off and apart - use a wire around the brake handle to keep it fully closed against the handlebar. That way fluid will not drain out out of the line as bad and is quicker to refill when the time comes.

I have always done this. I pull brake pads, squeeze lever to the bar and hold lever tight to bar with reusable Zip-Tie, split the caliper, do all the track replacement, shaft replacement and so on. I may loose a drip or 2, I top off after reassembly , 1 or 2 squeezes of the lever and its back to normal.

 

[justinator]

I had trouble when I had my riot and tried all the methods……vacuum and pushing from the bottom etc and none of them worked. I emailed hayes and asked for ideas. He said to remove pad and force piston back in with screwdriver or pry ar and reinstall pads and apply brakes and this would take care of it. Did that twice and brake lever was very firm. When you force piston back its a big rush of fluid and it helps push air out and dislodge and remaining bubbles. After that I never hesitated to split caliper as doing this method once or twice always worked perfect. No mess, quick and painless

 

[Sevey]

I had trouble when I had my riot and tried all the methods……vacuum and pushing from the bottom etc and none of them worked. I emailed hayes and asked for ideas. He said to remove pad and force piston back in with screwdriver or pry ar and reinstall pads and apply brakes and this would take care of it. Did that twice and brake lever was very firm. When you force piston back its a big rush of fluid and it helps push air out and dislodge and remaining bubbles. After that I never hesitated to split caliper as doing this method once or twice always worked perfect. No mess, quick and painless

Interesting comments - I think with this system you can get air trapped deep in the calipers behind the pistons that is hard to work itself out. When I started splitting the calipers, and remove the piston, I primed them first before pushing the pistons in - and that really helped the process.
MS

 

[Motorhead]

I've also had this problem twice after splitting the caliper for driveshaft removal! I saw a post on here about buying a small pump oil can so that filling could be done through the bleeder screw once all reassembled! That method worked OK but took many times of pumping/using the brake lever to get but maybe a 1/4 lever action, and no more! Buddy told me to just pump brake again and get what you can and then just put parking brake on and leave it overnight! Have used that method twice and my brakes feel as good as new with No play on lever! Next time I shall see if I can find a syringe as mentioned, and not have to use the overnight parking brake trick!

 

[Paystar]

If someone made a YouTube video on how to bleed the breaks on these machines, they would have over a million views!

I used these methods you guys proposed and I was still at no avail. I was able to recruit the great Fleecer to help. Started off using his method, still no break lever. Then we took the caliper apart, forced the pistons out with air, cleaned the seals, pistons, and housing. Hooked it back up fed fluid up through, still no break. Took the master cylinder apart on the bench cleaned it, everything to the eye looked in place and tight.
We both were stumped then the light bulb went off for Fleecer, as I have a 23 9000 sitting next to this one, we swapped out the master cylinder, fed the fluid up through, no break at first then pumped the lever, cracked the bleeder a few times and the break is hard as a rock! Therefore, the master cylinder was cooked. I see they have rebuild kits for the master cylinder but opted to just go new.

What a learning experience this was. Now I just hope when I swap the track and put on a new master cylinder on the 23 9000 next week I don't have any issues!

 

[74Nitro]

Oh, I was under the impression it was working before you split the caliper.

 

[stgdz]

Livestock syringe.
Go to a veterinary store.

You want a smaller stringe.diameter if given a choice between a larger or smaller volume.

Also make sure to properly bleed the syringe. You must hold the tip up and push all the air out.

 

[justinator]

If your brakes worked before then it wasnt the master cylinder. It wouldnt of just failed coincidentally while you had brakes apart. Thats where the air was trapped. Few big return pushes on the pistons and they would of bled, guaranteed.

 

[Paystar]

The master cylinder started leaking and running out of the boot on the lever. When we took the master cylinder apart there was some rust. Regardless we now have breaks, and it has the updated hayes master cylinder and better lever!