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Brake bleeding issues....

snowhite

Pro
Joined
Feb 19, 2014
Messages
149
Location
Saskatchewan
Country
Canada
Hello folks last spring I was on the edge with my sled as I did a complete chain case bearing rebuild and brake bearing. As some of us know that when the brake disc is removed the hell begins with getting the brakes to bleed. Well I began my venture again here the other day and tried all the goggle search methods and nothing worked!! I finally figured it by looking at the 14 mm. banjo bolt that attaches the oil line to the master cylinder. I loosened it while pressing the lever and lots of air came out. Did this a few times and everything started to work fine, bled the caliper also and now have solid brakes again. Yes I collapsed both pucks etc. but until that banjo bolt was loosened nothing worked.
 

Air is a pain in the arss to get out of these small systems. Same with bikes, wheelers etc. I have a vacuum bleeder but in a pinch I have done this---take the spray nozzle out of spray bottle, take the pick up off the end and using a piece of vacuum line attach it to the bleeder. Open the bleeder. Use the spray nozzle as a vacuum pump to suck fluid through the system. Spray in a safe direction of course. I have done this on a motorcycle when all else failed.
 
It might help also to bleed it before installing. Could move it around to get air up to bleeder. Used to do a lot of linked Cat shocks so had to bleed 2 shocks and a limiter adjustment my trick to getting air out was a heat gun. Just warming the hoses and shocks. Was amazing how fast the air bubbles rose out with very little heat.
 
I always bench bleed master cylinders before install.
 
When I did mine, it took me about an hour of screwing around. Eventually I realized that I had to turn the bleed screw way more to get the air out. Once I learned that, I can bleed mine in a couple of minutes.
 
Best trick I have is to "reverse bleed." Get a disposable syringe of about 100ml and a small length of tubing that fits over the end of the syringe and the bleed valve. Fill the Syringe with brake fluid and connect it up. Take the cap off the resevior, open the bleed valve, and squeeze the syringe to push the fluid into the system from the bottom. Air wants to rise anyway, so use that to your advantage instead of trying to pump the fluid from the top with the brake handle. Also, Khurtz is correct - make sure you open the bleed valve more than a little bit. Syringe and tubing should be a couple bucks at Tractor Supply or similar farm/home improvement store.
 


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