shawnj
Expert
Just wondering if anyone recalls the break in for a new apex. Some will say to do nothing other than dont go wide open and vary your rpm's. The previous dealer we delt with for out last one told us specificaly what rpm's to not go over for the first _ _ _ miles and then from there what to do. I can't recall the info they gave me. My current dealer never mentioned anything either. Thanks and hope everyone has a good cristmas and gets a nice yamy gift!
wigman1
Pro
These things are soooo expensive and technologically advanced, I never take the chance of getting on them too quickly. I ran my Apex 500 miles before holding it open at all - other than the occasional burp of the throttle - and it runs perfect. It really began to wake up at 1000 miles, almost like there was a delay in the computer like SkiDoo has.
The factory recommends the following with a new Apex, directly out of the Apex operating manual:
1 - First time only, start the sled and let the engine idle for 15 minutes
2 - 1st 100 miles, do not operate it over 6000 rpm
3 - 100 - 300 miles - avoid operation over 8000 rpm
4 - 300 miles, can be operated at all throttle ranges
5 - Change Oil and Filter at 500 miles
Also check the oil frequently, new engines have a tendency to burn a little until they are broken in.
Good luck with the sled - you're gonna love it!!
Wig
The factory recommends the following with a new Apex, directly out of the Apex operating manual:
1 - First time only, start the sled and let the engine idle for 15 minutes
2 - 1st 100 miles, do not operate it over 6000 rpm
3 - 100 - 300 miles - avoid operation over 8000 rpm
4 - 300 miles, can be operated at all throttle ranges
5 - Change Oil and Filter at 500 miles
Also check the oil frequently, new engines have a tendency to burn a little until they are broken in.
Good luck with the sled - you're gonna love it!!
Wig
brendan.9
Pro
http://ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=79 ... ight=break
do some searches you will find something.
do some searches you will find something.
all motors become the best engine when the rings get seated fast. Hard acceleration then cost down and hit it again, over and over. Rings need load to seat. They tell you to baby it for liability, they want you to get used to the machine before opening it up. As long as it is warmed up to operating temperature first, your good to go.
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2005
- Messages
- 7,503
- Location
- Huntsville Ontario & Niagara NY
- Country
- Other
- Snowmobile
- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
i rode the crap out of mine from first minute....heavy accel then hard decel...lots of varying,but lots of hard decelling is best to seat rings....
if you baby it,you will take alot longer to seat rings and some have had oil usage issues.....
in the end....my sled has always been fast,i think the breakin helped.
just dont hold it wide open for too long at one time...off then on.
Dan
if you baby it,you will take alot longer to seat rings and some have had oil usage issues.....
in the end....my sled has always been fast,i think the breakin helped.
just dont hold it wide open for too long at one time...off then on.
Dan
99SRX700
Extreme
I believe in breaking it in hard but NO prolonged periods of open throttle/high RPMs. By breaking it in hard I mean sharply varying the throttle, allowing it to rev to 9 or 10K under load for SHORT bursts. Start by excellerating hard to say maybe 6K and let off, then 8K and so on. Do several very brief bursts at each level with some slow periods in between until you work your way up to 10 and NEVER hold it there. By brief periods I mean let off as soon as you hit your target RPM. Cruise around at a mild pace for a while then do a few more bursts to 10K. I then shut mine off and let it cool since I have been told the heat cycling (letting it cool, warm up, then cool) are part of the break in but I have never confirmed that. I know a few engine builders who feel this is the only way to do it. A friend of mine was a service manager at a motorcycle dealer and the BMW rep once told him this is the way to go when it comes to break in. BetheVIper is right, the manual says what it does for liability reasons.
You will get many opinions on this. Some people on here actually believe there is a conspiracy amoungst engine builders and dealers to tell people that a hard break in is good so people will break their sleds and give them more business. I am not joking, the last time I expressed my views on break in on this forum and sited the fact that several engine builders and one factory rep suggested this to me, many objected and responded by stating this conspiracy theory.
Think of it this way, how many people actually know someone first hand who has had engine trouble that could be directly linked to improper break in? I have never met anyone who can honestly say they have witnessed something like this first hand. I suppose if you were doing consecutive prolonged wide open runs its possible you would break something due to the friction and heat that occurs during break in but thats why if you read my recomendation I say don't do that. If it were that much of an issue Yamaha would surely set the chip in the fuel injection to force you into proper break in so why don't they? Just some food for thought.
You will get many opinions on this. Some people on here actually believe there is a conspiracy amoungst engine builders and dealers to tell people that a hard break in is good so people will break their sleds and give them more business. I am not joking, the last time I expressed my views on break in on this forum and sited the fact that several engine builders and one factory rep suggested this to me, many objected and responded by stating this conspiracy theory.
Think of it this way, how many people actually know someone first hand who has had engine trouble that could be directly linked to improper break in? I have never met anyone who can honestly say they have witnessed something like this first hand. I suppose if you were doing consecutive prolonged wide open runs its possible you would break something due to the friction and heat that occurs during break in but thats why if you read my recomendation I say don't do that. If it were that much of an issue Yamaha would surely set the chip in the fuel injection to force you into proper break in so why don't they? Just some food for thought.
copo427ss
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
BETHEVIPER said:
x2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
RUN IT :exc:
Let it warm up and then ride it easy for a couple miles and then ride it like you stole it.
wigman1
Pro
I've worked on 2 stroke snowmobile engines and low-and-high performance car engines for over 35 years, don't know about the 4 stroke sled engines that much, I just go by what the manual says, that is certainly the safest approach to breaking in a $3-4,000.00 engine. Yes, the factory is overly cautious (primarily to prevent warranty claims), but that should tell you the best way to break it in - the careful way.
What I do know though - whether it be a 2 stroke sled motor or a 4 stroke high performance car motor - is that those people that break them in full throttle and run them hard from day one are the ones who have the most wear and tear on their cylinders, burn pistons, break rings, score bearings, burn valves, throw rods, etc., etc., etc.
Every time.
Every engine I ever worked on that was beat from the start did not last nearly as long, and always had worn cylinders that were out of round, gouged up, pistons that looked like they went through a tumble-dryer cycle, and valves and valve guides that had the edges burnt up because they never had the chance to seat properly and pushrods that were bent, broken, or otherwise mutilated.
Super high powered drag race car engines are different because they use totally different design parts and you only need them to run for 10 seconds, then they get thoroughly checked and repaired before every run.
Don't listen to these guys - take it easy on the sled until it is properly broken in. Go by the old saying - "It can't hurt" but it can do a LOT of $$$$$ damage if you don't do it right.
Play it safe, it isn't worth it, your sled will run longer, better, burn less oil, and you will be the one who still is riding it 10 years from now and it will still be in perfect condition inside and out while the rest of them are wrecks.
Wig
What I do know though - whether it be a 2 stroke sled motor or a 4 stroke high performance car motor - is that those people that break them in full throttle and run them hard from day one are the ones who have the most wear and tear on their cylinders, burn pistons, break rings, score bearings, burn valves, throw rods, etc., etc., etc.
Every time.
Every engine I ever worked on that was beat from the start did not last nearly as long, and always had worn cylinders that were out of round, gouged up, pistons that looked like they went through a tumble-dryer cycle, and valves and valve guides that had the edges burnt up because they never had the chance to seat properly and pushrods that were bent, broken, or otherwise mutilated.
Super high powered drag race car engines are different because they use totally different design parts and you only need them to run for 10 seconds, then they get thoroughly checked and repaired before every run.
Don't listen to these guys - take it easy on the sled until it is properly broken in. Go by the old saying - "It can't hurt" but it can do a LOT of $$$$$ damage if you don't do it right.
Play it safe, it isn't worth it, your sled will run longer, better, burn less oil, and you will be the one who still is riding it 10 years from now and it will still be in perfect condition inside and out while the rest of them are wrecks.
Wig
snowbeast
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 5,498
- Age
- 69
- Location
- E waterboro,maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2015 apex xtx traded for a 2017 sidewinder L-tx-le
- yes
- YOUTUBE
- yes
Well if anyone has worked on any engine they all run rings,and all need the same measure of load to seat,so hard full rpm bursts than back off hard again and back down,let it cool down,than hard again until you have around 20-30 miles like this than ride it normal,well for alot of us wfo lol,heck when we rebuilt any two smoke at the track,we ran them wfo for 1/4 mile at a time and they all ran perfect. But what do i know,i am still a young lad cough well 54 is young aint it..
wigman1
Pro
Same age as me!
I would follow the manual...you will get best HP that way...use non synth...oil to start with as the rings won't seat well with synth.
We raced 4/ karts at one time..very important, for best HP, to go slow and seat rings and maintain heat cycle.
2/..sure pin it...out of the box...as they go the other way...its starting to wear out when its started...
We raced 4/ karts at one time..very important, for best HP, to go slow and seat rings and maintain heat cycle.
2/..sure pin it...out of the box...as they go the other way...its starting to wear out when its started...
IFlyEm
Expert
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I rode it hard for 40 miles changed the oil and still riding her hard. I don't do prolonged runs at a constant RPM. Vary the throttle from idle to full pull. Running like a champ. Just make sure that if you run it hard you change the oil and filter early.
I rode it hard for 40 miles changed the oil and still riding her hard. I don't do prolonged runs at a constant RPM. Vary the throttle from idle to full pull. Running like a champ. Just make sure that if you run it hard you change the oil and filter early.
MUSKIE
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
...........YEP - THAT .IFlyEm said:
snerkman
Pro
MUSKIE said:...........YEP - THAT .IFlyEm said:
Yes, controversy abounds on this subject here and every powersports forum I've been on. So, since I'm not an expert, I asked one. The person I asked was one of my best friends growing up. He was one of the smartest kids in school. He then went to one of the top engineering colleges in the country and graduated with honors. Since the mid 80's he has worked for one of the big three automakers in advanced engine development. I sent him the motoman link and asked for his opinion. Here is his response quoted directly from the email he sent me:
"I read through the link and this
break-in procedure looks very reasonable. Our procedures get the engines
up to similar relative speeds very early in the testing and we do speed
cycling. The ring materials and bore honing descriptions are pretty spot
on; we are going to lower tensions on the rings because our cylindricity
is so much better than it used to be. It doesn't take a lot of time to
break an engine in. Our tests are 8 hours long versus what used to be an
18 hour test.
The comments about heat cycling are a little questionable. We like to
heat cycle because things start to move during the cycle. You need to
see if the gaskets and seals are all installed properly and a few heat
cycles is the best way to do that."
You may take what you want from that, but I trust his opinion more than some backyard mechanic who knows how things worked "back in the day." Today's motors are built different and require different break-in.
Similar threads
