yamahahaapex
TY 4 Stroke Master
you got it man, only thing left is the wiring and tunnel
batman
Newbie
Ok yamahhaapex, I hear you, but where does it end. Bt the time I remove all the rivets, there won't be anything left.
Has anybody done a bulkhead replacement themselves? Tthere has to be a point where I have enough stuff apart to get the damn thing out so I can put the new one in.
The 2 spacers that have the steering linkage on them and have their threads sticking out into the bulkhead are the 1/2 of the problem.
The other 1/2 of the problem are the 4 bolts up top in the front that need to have the bulkhead go forward to slide off them. They appear to be welded to the piece that wraps around the top frame.
Any help at this point would be greatly appreciated. I tried to call the chop shop where I got the parts, but no answer after 4 PM.
Has anybody done a bulkhead replacement themselves? Tthere has to be a point where I have enough stuff apart to get the damn thing out so I can put the new one in.
The 2 spacers that have the steering linkage on them and have their threads sticking out into the bulkhead are the 1/2 of the problem.
The other 1/2 of the problem are the 4 bolts up top in the front that need to have the bulkhead go forward to slide off them. They appear to be welded to the piece that wraps around the top frame.
Any help at this point would be greatly appreciated. I tried to call the chop shop where I got the parts, but no answer after 4 PM.
The four bolts are on what is called the steering gate. It needs to slide back about two inches to clear the bolts. Remove the fuel tank to get at the bolts and give room for it to slide to the rear.
batman
Newbie
Yes, that frame slides back. It is bolted along it's bottom flange.
nate007
Lifetime Member
- Joined
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- 1. '06 Apex -twin screw
2. '04 Redline Revolt 800
3. '09 Nytro XTX - twin screw
It's a big job, but there's plenty of resources here to help you out! Here's my "build" thread..
Just take pictures as you go, it'll help if you need it, or find another one to look at.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=60432
PM me, or call me at the shop, (319)545-2137 and I'll be glad to help you in any way I can.
Just take pictures as you go, it'll help if you need it, or find another one to look at.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=60432
PM me, or call me at the shop, (319)545-2137 and I'll be glad to help you in any way I can.
AIRWOLF
Guest
3 hrs start to finish
batman
Newbie
All done and back on the snow. Key was taking apart both sides, and working back 1-2 rivets at a time until the bulkhead finally dropped out. If I had to do it again, I would get an air riveter. Thanks again to Hudon's in Barneveld for having all the parts I needed.
Super Sled
Lifetime Member
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- Feb 25, 2009
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- Summit X
You did that job with a hand riveter???? How's your arm and shoulder feeling today?
batman
Newbie
I am glad I didn't plan to ride today. Worst part was the ones around the bottom. No power laying on your back. I will definitely look to rent or borrow an air riveter if I have to do that again.
zoomer
Extreme
I have to do this same thing, broke mine last week, was going down over a rock in Island Park and the dual carbides on the Gen 2s weren't any help and broke it open.
Honk
TY 4 Stroke Master
You can buy an air riv gun at Harbour frieght for like 40 bucks, Great Investment, and it works great too, if you only use it a couple times a year. If your in the bis, then buy a good one.
Roadrunner
Expert
batman said:All done and back on the snow. Key was taking apart both sides, and working back 1-2 rivets at a time until the bulkhead finally dropped out. If I had to do it again, I would get an air riveter. Thanks again to Hudon's in Barneveld for having all the parts I needed.
I hope you used structural rivets and not pop rivets from the hardware store.
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