Broken axel shaft

this is funny(not really). had something in my chaincase let go on saturday morning. I was/am figuring the chain had let go, now i'm curious to find out what blew apart. I dropped it off at the dealer yesterday only because it's under warranty still, so i'm sure i should find out something tomorrow
 
Has everyone that failed had extros installed? Wondering if the pressure from just two cogs is adding more stress then distrubuting it over 4 cogs like stock.

That would be great as i just installed extros this year LOL!
 
Mine broke clean off, chaincase side, last two inches on the end. The guy I bought the replacement from said my track was probably too tight, which it was, but ? . ? . ? I was "testing" my new suspension that day, "breaking in" the springs! I guess 7,000 mi of abuse is not bad, just not too convenient.
 
ting the shaft ???

guys, first off all theese shafts breaking think about it the weak link change to microloy... stock sled if you have a turbo sled you need a bigger o.d. stronger shaft we know we run one keep running stock the will keep breaking for shure we have 1" and bigger shafts for sale fast....
 
Up in Quebec this past week and Thursday afternoon near Shawinigan (100 miles from where I was staying something went wrong) :o| Thought it was the chain and gears but upon investigation it was the driveshaft #$%&*
I have 9800 miles on this 04 Warrior, everything else looked good :Rockon:
The shaft broke on the chaincase side right next to the locking collar on the drive sprocket.
From what I'm reading here, it would be a good bet to change it at 7500 mile intervals! It cost me $425 to hire a guy with a truck to bring it back to the Motel :o|
Did not have much of a choice considering where it got stuck :drink:
 
Ouch that sucks.I was bummed about having to buy a 50.00 toboggan to put under my track.

I would have towed it if I would have had tools to take chaincase off.


FASTSLED what different drive shafts are available for these sleds?I would have loved to put something stronger back in.

I was told that the shafts are backordered right now from yamaha.I still dont have mine yet.
 
LazyBastard said:
My best guess is that for those who have this problem, there was probably some kind of impact against the driveshaft at some point, weakening it. Either a big chunk of ice fell in and wedged, or it was driven over something like a big rock that hit the drivers hard.

Interesting that you mention this LB. That morning when we started out I warmed up the sled on a stand and 5 of us set out for a 200 miler. I was lead and we move at a pretty good pace. As I'm into the first few miles a BIG chunk of ice broke off in the tunnel and started thumbing and a grinding! I kept going but I should have stopped and backed it out of there! This very well might have played a major part in doing that driveshaft in! That won't happen again :o| Live and learn ;):D
 
axel

Mine broke about a week after I had a lower bearing in my chaincase fail. At first I thought I messed up the case when I had put it back in as the sled wouldnt move in forward or reverse. Got her home and opened the case everything was fine, lifted the #*$&@ and one side of the track was lower and looked under and sure enough broken axel. I thought the shaft might of became weak due to the bearing failing and heating the shaft but now after hearing of other failures it may be just weak. This was on my 05.
 
well,my turn,broke the axle last friday on a 7 day trip,thought it was the chain too,i havent taken it apart yet,my sled has 10 000 miles,i had read so much about this that for the first couple days i was worried,on the sixth day,800 miles in our 1100 mile trip,it let go,it started making a funny noise in the chaincase and it was vibrating alot more than usual,we were out about 20 miles in the bush so decided to keep going to try to get to the next town,i managed 15 miles with the vibration before it let go,is there some good links on how to replace the shaft
 
I didnt know this till I put my axle back in but you do not even need to take the suspension out of the sled.Just loosen the track tension and you can roll it right up the front where it needs to go.


Interesting I havent seen not one single low mileage failure yet.All seem to be right around 9000 for the most part.
 
pat the rat said:
would be nice to have a few tips on performing this job

OK Pat! I just replaced the axle, bearings, seals, drive chain and track on my 04 Warrior.

1. Remove both body side panels and Drain chain oil
2. Relieve track tension
3. Remove 6 bolts holding rear skid and remove
4. Remove drive belt, secondary sheave, 2 Torx set screws for speedo bearing, speedo gear, flange bolts and speed sensor. Slide this bearing off shaft, or pry or tap it off. You should now be able to remove the broken axle and track.
5. Remove Brake caliper, Emergency brake, and rotor (Snap Ring Pliers needed)
6. Disconnect Reverse linkage on top so as not to disturb adjustment part.
7. Remove outer chaincase cover.
8. Undo top gear 36 MM nut (Have someone hold the secondary sheave while you loosen this)
9. Unbolt bottom Gear (Spring loaded with reverse gear assembly)
10. Relieve Chain tensioner idler, with chain loose the bottom gear can be slipped off, then remove top gear an idler gear and chain together.
11. Unbolt inner chain case cover.

I would strongly suggest as you remove all of these parts that you lay them out in the order they came off and mark and document items so that you will not be confused when you put them back together.

12. Remove 4 drive sprockets (You have to press them off), 2 set collars on each end remove.
(I reversed my drive sprockets so that the nearly new reverse direction would now drive forward and the slight wear in the previous forward direction part of the drivers are now for reverse duty, or you can just buy new ones if you want to spend the money)
13. Drive sprockets are PRESSED ON to the new shaft at precise measurements (Info in Service Manual) Install end collars and tighten set screw (TORX) It's a good idea to replace bushing and O Ring on drive chain side of the axle at this time.
14. Place track in place (Without skid, I tried with skid, NO ROOM)
15. Install new bearing on speedo side of axle ( Do not tighten set screws yet) Slip Axle through chain side first, then through hole on speedo side.
16. Install flange plates, speedo sensor, and gear.
17. Install inner chain case (New seals and bearings have been pressed in)
18. Install drive chain and gears (Check drive chain for excessive wear! I put a new one in mine)
19. Tighten top gear 36 MM nut.
20. Install outer chain case cover (New seals and bearings have been pressed in)
21. Install reverse linkage, Brake rotor,Caliper, and E- Brake Caliper.
22. Adjust drive chain tension, fill chain case with required oil.
23. Tighten set screws on speedo bearing.
24. Install rear skid and adjust track tension.

TAKE YOUR TIME AND YOU CAN DO IT! OR PAY $90 AN HOUR. :o|
 
mine broke at 5500 miles. 10 miles out of munising.
108 picks, double backers. hauck air kit, clutch kit.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0580 (Small).JPG
    IMG_0580 (Small).JPG
    57 KB · Views: 153
  • IMG_0581 (Small).JPG
    IMG_0581 (Small).JPG
    50.9 KB · Views: 144
  • IMG_0579 (Small).JPG
    IMG_0579 (Small).JPG
    59.5 KB · Views: 150


Back
Top