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broken drive shaft

My question is do the HD shafts last any longer. I plan to keep the sled for few more seasons.
 

It would be a lot cheaper and simpler if you just put in another OEM one. You got many miles out of the last one. Maybe you ride harder or faster now then you did on the old machine.
 
So if i remember right. On my 06 apex
The shaft is hex and is machined round on the ends. the chaincase side is machined round to fit a 6205 - 25 mm bearing in the chaincase

If you can use a newer shaft in an older sled wouldn't that mean the new larger shaft would still need to fit the same old 6205 bottom bearing in the chaincase?
It was my understanding the shaft breaks where it is reduced from hex to round at the chaincase side. Is this the correct breaking point?
Not arguing just not understanding.
25 mm is 25 mm i am not seeing how the new shaft is stronger?
 
The theory is, larger more rigid shaft will flex less. Less flex in the center will concentrate less stress at the weak point. The break is a stress fracture that accumulates over time. Less flex= less stress. Less stress= longer life.
The closer you get to the bearing the less ability to flex, so the failure is in between the bearing and full load portion of the shaft.
 
Vx700
Ok i see what your getting at. Makes sense.
Ive often wondered if the issues with breakage are somehow related to a combination of factors like heat treating, vibration, traction products, etc etc.
I beat the living $hit out of my apex. And weigh about 240
I have a pretty good list of broken, bent, and cracked parts.
I have 13 grand on mine and the drive shaft is still good.
(I think/ hope)
Just thinking out loud i guess
 
I only put the newer shaft in my sled because I wanted extro drivers and it was the cheapest option.
 
I am leaning towards the HD version with Wahl drivers installed from Ulmer. Price is close to the OEM after you figure the cost to press the drivers and failure at 7k mi
 
I see you have your sled riding on an M-20. I had an M-10 in an 05 Mach Z that snapped a driveshaft due to the track being too tight. It seems that the M-10 would add tension as it traveled through the compression stroke. On a hard landing my driveshaft snapped. I learned the hard way to run a loose track with that suspension.

Do you suppose the M-20 also adds tension?
 
[QUOTE="SoldierGood point and I thought the same but I run the track looser than spec so it may not be the case and if so the HD shaft would be a better option. IMO
 


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