apex55
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I'd use a low temp grease.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
ecopter said that the driveshafts were prone to breakage & not the jackshaft at 10,000 miles. I did a search to try to find out for sure because if I am going to have to take the jackshaft out I want to be sure which one it is because if it is the jackshaft it will have to be replaced since I am in there, if it isn't, I will save a few hundred bucks,lol!!!
Oh ya, couldn't find ant results in my search.
Oh ya, couldn't find ant results in my search.
thor452
Because I can
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2010
- Messages
- 3,029
- Location
- Shawano,WI 54166
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- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2012 Apex XTX 2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
I have a friend who found out his jack shaft was bent and was causing his machine to eat jack shaft berrings for what its worth when you get it back together run it on a stand and watch the secondary for a wobble.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
It doesn't appear to be bent, I checked it before I took the clutch off to check the bearing, no wobble.thor452 said:I have a friend who found out his jack shaft was bent and was causing his machine to eat jack shaft berrings for what its worth when you get it back together run it on a stand and watch the secondary for a wobble.
thor452
Because I can
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2010
- Messages
- 3,029
- Location
- Shawano,WI 54166
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2012 Apex XTX 2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
did you run it up on a stand? that was how we seen his. with belt on have a friend spin the track with the throttle and you watch from the side. just what we found and someting to look for.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Yes, I ran it on the track stand, looked straight, no wobble. Tried search on here to see if the jackshafts are prone to breakage but can't find anything, thought I read that on here somewhere before though.thor452 said:did you run it up on a stand? that was how we seen his. with belt on have a friend spin the track with the throttle and you watch from the side. just what we found and someting to look for.
thor452
Because I can
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2010
- Messages
- 3,029
- Location
- Shawano,WI 54166
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2012 Apex XTX 2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
that was the drive shaft
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Oh ok, so I just need the bearing then, no new jackshaft perfect!! Do you think I should replace the seals & the chaincase bearing also?thor452 said:that was the drive shaft
thor452
Because I can
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2010
- Messages
- 3,029
- Location
- Shawano,WI 54166
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2012 Apex XTX 2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
at 6000 id say your early but if you have the chain case appart the it is easy and pretty cheap
teamyamaha
Extreme
I suggust replacing the jackshaft bearing with oem, and replace chain case fluid. Go find some snow and enjoy!
black knight
Expert
if this bearing was changed before I'm wondering by accident if the inner race threaded bushing was tightened before the chain case nut on the other end of the shaft.
In return not setting the shaft alignment correctly, pulling on the bearing behind the secondary on the jackshaft and eventually breaking the inner race of that bearing????
Always tighten the chain case side jackshaft nut first then the secondary lock bushing.
I would change the bearings in the chain case you will have it apart anyway.
Cheers
In return not setting the shaft alignment correctly, pulling on the bearing behind the secondary on the jackshaft and eventually breaking the inner race of that bearing????
Always tighten the chain case side jackshaft nut first then the secondary lock bushing.
I would change the bearings in the chain case you will have it apart anyway.
Cheers
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Thats a very good point & I think your on to something because when i first got the sled & was checking things out I noticed the secondary clutch wouldn't slide on the jackshaft, had no free play at all!! Had to take out an outer shim between the bolt & the secondary!!!black knight said:if this bearing was changed before I'm wondering by accident if the inner race threaded bushing was tightened before the chain case nut on the other end of the shaft.
In return not setting the shaft alignment correctly, pulling on the bearing behind the secondary on the jackshaft and eventually breaking the inner race of that bearing????
Always tighten the chain case side jackshaft nut first then the secondary lock bushing.
I would change the bearings in the chain case you will have it apart anyway.
Cheers
hmmmmm, wait a second, in that case I probably would have too much clutch free play because there would be more shaft on the clutch side.
ecopter
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Yes, sorry about the confusion, I meant the drive shafts are prone to breaking, not the jackshafts. It was in response to you not having to spend so much at the dealer.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
No problem at all & thank you for your help as you saved me exactly $317 + tax at the dealer because that is the price of a new jackshaft which I will not be buying thanks to your info, lol!ecopter said:Yes, sorry about the confusion, I meant the drive shafts are prone to breaking, not the jackshafts. It was in response to you not having to spend so much at the dealer.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
One last question then I can put this post to rest. The dealer does not have the bearing in stock, has to order it. Is there any other parts I will need to order to complete this job, o-rings, seals or will the existing ones be fine? Is the bearing on the chaincase side easy to change since the jackshaft is coming out?
Thanks everyone for all your help!
Pretty soon I will be up & ing again, wuhoo!!
Thanks everyone for all your help!
Pretty soon I will be up & ing again, wuhoo!!
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