Building a $6500 4-stroke mountain animal

[bdm]

Thanks Kachess,
But at the end the sled still breath is air from the small stock curved to the front black rubber part...In fact you just loose some box volume and weight but no Cfm`s gain for the engine from the mod. After seeing this mod and your text, I think that I will add another curved rubber part to add some air to the stock box and relocate the battery to ease filter change.

Martin

I assume that Kachess's approach requires no carb mods. Changing the pressure in the box by adding more inlet area may require other mods to run properly.

 

[Abc]

Maybe...but that makes the exhaust modification useless for the performance of the sled only good for weight saving. If you help the engine exhaust more air you must let some more in too to make more ponies. Aibox mod is a must. I mean rejetting a carb after pipe and airbox mod is a must and also pretty easy.

So on my side, I worked on my stock airbox this afternoon. I drilled more holes on the plastic part that held the foam and screen in place and added 2, 1-1/4" hole on each side of the curved rubber inlet. I than glued prefilter material over them to prevent water and snow ingestion. After a few run Ill check my plug color to see if carbs will need to be rejet or not. Maybe just rising the needle will be required since I did not touch the exhaust yet.

Martin

 

[Kachess]

If you want your sled to "breathe" why drill holes. You may as well go all the way, dump the airbox and go with K&N's. You want more air, give it air. The problem was the genesis didn't respond to improved air like my Ford Power Stroke. The CV carbs complicated things. Jetting and springs were affected. I looked into K&N's the first year out and everybody was still fidling with them trying to get them to run as good as they looked. They seemed to improve response, but I remember early hp curves showed a loss in peak hp (and top speed). Finally people figured out that crankcase vacuum was essential so they added the evac kits. Powder choked them so they added the socks. I wanted to try different exhausts and they seemed to screw up carburation when running K&N's, so held off. I'm sure they have it all worked out now, but I haven't seen any curves recently. I've dumped the airbox weight, run three different pipes without messing with the carbs, and our sleds get up and climb plenty good. When I get ready to let my sled "breathe" I'll go trxster's route and let it really breathe...TURBO! Now, those curves show improvement.

 

[Kachess]

A photo of No 1, 2, 4 and 5 Tons, on Sunday. If our Holz rear comes in No. 6 may be riding "light" this weekend.

 

[brianidaho]

Really cool seeing the collection. Thanks for taking the time to post photos and write up what you've done. It takes a lot of time and effort to put all that down in a manner that makes sense.

 

[Abc]

The problems I have here in Quebec is that any mod to improve engine performance is forbidden in the trail (exhaust etc...). So anything I do must not be seen when the hood is opened if Im pull over in the trail. Thats why im messing with the stock airbox. I know that there is easier way to get more air.

Cv carbs are not to hard to mess with once you know them. I own 2 Ktm 640`s bike that comes with Mikuni Bst carb and they respond pretty well to rejet, pipe and air box mod. Afer those mod where done on the bikes i can throttle wheelie in third at 80km/h. Witch I was only able to do in second at 40-50km/h before mod`s.

Sizing up the vaccuum holes in the carb slides also improve throttle response (faster opening).

My main problem is to mod the exhaust without making much more noise or mod being visible...Next steps will be an Cat M suspension upgrade. Does any of you know witch one I need to keep the 151 track? Don't want to go longer cause I use it more like a crossover sled. No big snow mountain north east quebec.

By the way nice collection and garage Kachess.

Martin

 

[Kachess]

Thanks. I'm lucky to have the time...semi retired. Here is a link to a post I made last year that gives steps on how we move the steering forward.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... ed+forward

I moved the steering forward on No.6 yesterday and took some more photos. Included are how I lenghten the steering post 2-3inches, establish the angle on the lower weldment, and locate the gage.

 

[Kachess]

Here are some of the gage relocaton. I use aluminum from the side of the old tunnel extension. You can barely get it out of it, and the aluminum always has some rub marks, but most of it gets covered by the gage. The gage hole pattern will just fit on the plate (tansfer from plastic dash part). The diameter I trace from the tank shroud. Make a template. I use alum rivets (or small bolts if I can't get access) to secure it. Take some care to clock it properly when riveting in place and don't put an ear at the bottom or it will hit the gas tank (lesson's learned the hard way). This plate is kind of a "hack job" I had sitting around, but very little shows when installed. I use a cresent wrench to bend the ears, tin snips or sabre saw to cut it out. The location works perfectly. Can alway see it, it's protected, never gets hit, either riding or rolling, does'nt seem to fog up as much.

 

[DoktorC]

Kachass - that is a killer system you've got there!! I for one really appreciate the cost down mindset. It's easy to build an awesome sled if you just through $$$ at it....the opposite takes alot of planning and thought. Awesome sleds!!

The problems I have here in Quebec is that any mod to improve engine performance is forbidden in the trail (exhaust etc...). So anything I do must not be seen when the hood is opened if Im pull over in the trail. Thats why im messing with the stock airbox. I know that there is easier way to get more air.

Martin

You need to talk to this guy lol...I don't think performance mods are much of an issue in La Belle Province.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=33734

 

[pro116]

holtz

Kach you must get a discount from holtz by now,lol

 

[Kachess]

I think there are posts on the battery relocation, but here are some of my thoughts and photos. It is a very worthwhile mod cause it's relatively cheap, easy, gets rid of weight, moves mass lower, and improves access to everything. It's where the battery belongs. Ya gotta get the right battery to fit through the enlarged left forward bulkhead hole, Yuasa YTZ10S. There are cheaper equivalents but they don't all have the same CCA's. Going with a smaller battery has already has decreased your safety margin, so I don't chince. I relocated my battery first year and have never touched it since. Never had it go dead, come lose or short.



Steps:

Remove Battery, and battery bracket. Slide fuse block off of bracket and detach elec box. Bracket is a bit tough to get out from under hoses, but comes out.

Cut elec box mounting ears off of battery bracket

Mark and enlarge left forward bulkhead hole using drill at corners and saber/sawzall. I enlarge it by ¾ in. leaving 1in from center mate line.

The black battery cable will not reach the terminal at the new location so swap it with the black jumper cable, which reaches perfectly. Straighten the black cable end, and swap out the boot. Looks like new.

Fish the backpacking strap around the two cross posts in the bulkhead taking care not to twist them. Slide the foam (thin closed cell foam from a sleeping pad) under them, and then the battery. Put the terminals to the left, negative forward, positive backward. Take care not to short the battery on the chassis while fishing it in.

Snug up strap and cut off some excess. Attach positive lead first to the battery so there is no chance of shorting the battery to ground with the screwdriver. I fish the wires over the cross member so they don’t interfere with steering parts. Next attach the negative. I cut off the stock battery box real short and slide it in on top of the battery to protect it a little. The top will just sit in there and never seems to move.

Reinstall the elec box using the ears you cut off the battery bracket. Pull the box up at an angle to clear the battery. Done.

 

[Kachess]

The supplier of the glasspack is Diamond Eye Performance

http://www.diamondeyeperformance.com

We use the 12inch by 1.75in internal diameter. I'll be installing one on No.6 Ton soon and will document the process

 

[edge_kw]

Thanks Kachess. Good information!

 

[TT]

Kachess deserves to get this post sticky!

Light weight mods for light weight wallets!

 

[Abc]

DoktorC law is new from this year. If you get stop by the police or by club safety guy theres a 250$ + fine if the sled is piped and your could get your sled tow. Its now even forbidden to the dealer to sell those pipe. I must make a mod that wont be louder and heavyer than stock and that keep stock outside apearance.

Martin