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Burble/Hesitation Question?

Received the ECP kit today, 165s, plugs etc. and installed it. Running Dalton clutching, stock exhaust, silver springs. Had a chance to do a couple short blasts on the river and did not notice any burble or hesitation. Will do some more testing tomorrow to double-check and dial in my RPMs. 8)
 

Yamadave where are you? we got at least 8 - 10 at my house this week load that trailer and head a little south. I made the big mistake of leaving my sled 220 miles north of here so now i gotta go get her for the weekend. :cry: Hopefully ride sat and sunday :D
 
Toolman said:
Hello? Hello? Hello? I don't have the ECP filters. Don't blame Freddie. Yes I tried richening the pilots, worse. It is definitely rich not lean. Stock airbox and green springs. How about this, would someone try the stock springs with the filters just to verify the problem leaves with the filters in place. The burble only comes on with the stock airbox and the lighter springs. Lets see if it goes away with the filters and stock springs.

Toolman I have the filters with the silver springs,the burble was there,put the cr10ek plugs in and it got worse.Then I went back to the stock springs and 90 percent of it was gone.
I put the stock plugs back in but havnt had a chance to try it.Dam rain :evil:
 
So far, every RX1 that I have dynoed has a very offending area on the graph exactly where all of you are stating the burble is. I am looking right now at 3 different RX1's on my dyno computer and all 3 graph's look almost exactly the same. Now try to follow me here and if you have trouble comprehending what I am trying to verbally describe, go back and look at Ride Blues dyno graph for dynorun #.002.

This is a bit wierd too...guess what all 3 engines do at the first hit of the throttle? They decellerate! Now think about that a moment! You give something the gas and it slows down. They slow down for about 500 RPM's worth of time, then they acellerate rather briskly to 4400RPM's and then either flatline the torque line or struggle to accelerate until 6000 RPM's. After that all 3 run up to peak torque quite briskly again. So what we have here being that it is all during an attempt to accelerate the engine is the very same offending RPM range that everyone is complaining about...with the stock airbox, jets and CV slide springs!

So yesterday I took another RX1 and dynoed it. This time I "looked for" this burble in 100% stock condition...and found it! What I mean is that now that I am more aware of it, I could find that sweet spot on the throttle and actually "make" the engine burble.

So what does a burble look like on an inertia engine dyno? In my estimation it looks just like RB's torque line on the graph on dynorun .002.
So until I have more proof otherwise, I am willing to state that all the RX1's that I have dynoed have a burble even when they are 100% stock. I believe that the addition of the air filters merely accentuates this burble and makes in more pronounced due to the fat that the stock airbox acts like a muffler of sorts with the foam inside and all. When it becomes so apparent after theair filter install, one would be quick to blame the filters but I am not convinced that they are the source of the problem. I think they just show a problem the stock sled has more than the stock airbox.

Now I am not defending the air filters. I am just trying to help solve this dilemma and in order to do that a person needs to know EXACTLY what they are dealing with. So for now, my take on this is that the air filters merely show a problem that the stock sled has more openly.

Now I know some of you are going to try and say that "my sled didn't do this until I changed the springs". While I sympathize and not to sound argumentative, I'm afraid that your sled probably did...you just didn't realize it.

Another thing that may be the cause of this believe it or not is clutching. Now whille all of you look at your puter screen as if I have lost my mind...I will explain:

Think about what happens if you have a stock clutch setup in your sled. It trys to accelerate through the range quickly but meets opposition from the sleds weight, friction and etc. Now a clutch parts company comes out with a clutch kit that really wakes the sled up! In most cases, with these aftermarket clutch kits, you end up shifting more aggressively in that the time spent during engine acceleration is more in alignment with clutch activity. (shifting) Back before 4 stroke snowmobile engines and before CV carburetors, this was less of a problem...why you ask? Because with older sleds as well as current 2 strokes, you have throttle operated mechanical slides in the carbs. With the RX1, you have a CV carb. Now being that clutching is TORQUE reactive and not RPM reactive what do the slides in your CV carbs do when you hit the throttle? They begin to move up. Now when the clutch starts to shift aggressively, it lugs your engine down. When this occurs, the CV slides first opened thereby allowing a huge rush of air into the engine and then a millisecond later when the clutch began its hard shift and drug the RPM down, the slides slammed shut (or almost shut) because the slides sensed the RPM drop, thereby shutting off the ability for the main jet and the needle jet and jet needle to allow fuel to pass through.

If you have a clutch tuneup in your sled that doesn't grab the belt real hard, this scenario might not be as apparent. But, with the agressively shifting aftermarket clutch setups or even the ones that don't shift hard but do grab the belt hard, you lug the engine and the slide merely reacts just like it was designed to.

I have to go to my 9 year old boys Christmas concert at school right now so I will leave you all with that scenario to ponder. Give it hell!

Freddie
 


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