Firecat_Freak
Pro
I'm still figuring out the suspension adjustments on my gt. I pushed down on the front today and noticed it went down very easy and back up very easy. I found the compression and rebound clickers all the way ccw on both shocks. I busted out the owners manual and it gives what the standard settings are but I would like to know what the adjustments do in the real world. Lately I have been getting tons of ski lift. Can someone point me in the right direction or explain this to me. Thanks, much appreciated in advance.
theCATman
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Here is your meal ticket. My (theCATman) setup for Apex & Vector. Many satisfied TY customers over the years. 
This is for LTX or 121" also. This is the same setup I use on my '06 Apex GT (121") save for the ability to adjust the shock electrically vs manually.
Depending on everyone's given weight & trail conditions more compression may be needed on the remote dial on the tunnel. PLEASE realize this.
1. Front shocks-- pre-load measurement of 1 7/8" collar to collar
2. Front shocks-- compression. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full soft. In other words, turn it in counterclockwise 'till it stops, & then in 3 clicks
3. Front shocks-- rebound. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full fast rebound. In other words, turn it counterclockwise 'til it stops, & then 3 clicks in.
4. Rear Mono-Shock pre-load-- Leave it in the stock cam notch. This should be the middle notch.
5. Rear transfer rod-- Turn the transfer rod IN to a measurement of 1 1/8"
6. Rear Mono-Shock rebound-- 3 clicks from full soft, according to the dial on the tunnel. In other words, turn it all the way to full soft & then 3 clicks toward hard. NOTE: the compression feel will also change as the rebound is set tighter for weight & trail conditions.
7. Some people have gone 1-2 notches tighter on the limiter strap. I personally have tried it & noticed no difference from the stock location.
REMINDER!! the rear setting can & will have to change some depending on your weight & trail conditions. This also will change the feel of the compression too.
On a side note also. As we all know the stock Yamaha skis suck major balls. Dually runners in the 6-10" range are highly recommended. As are Snow-Trackers if you choose that route.
ONE EDIT TO THIS SETUP: Whenever my wife rides the sled, I put the Mono-Shock preload to full soft. She said the middle setting was a little harsh for her. She's about 125 lbs with gear. I don't think many of us guys here are only a buck-thirty geared up, but be aware that a light rider may want the Mono set on soft.
Any other questions, just ask.
This is for LTX or 121" also. This is the same setup I use on my '06 Apex GT (121") save for the ability to adjust the shock electrically vs manually.
Depending on everyone's given weight & trail conditions more compression may be needed on the remote dial on the tunnel. PLEASE realize this.
1. Front shocks-- pre-load measurement of 1 7/8" collar to collar
2. Front shocks-- compression. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full soft. In other words, turn it in counterclockwise 'till it stops, & then in 3 clicks
3. Front shocks-- rebound. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full fast rebound. In other words, turn it counterclockwise 'til it stops, & then 3 clicks in.
4. Rear Mono-Shock pre-load-- Leave it in the stock cam notch. This should be the middle notch.
5. Rear transfer rod-- Turn the transfer rod IN to a measurement of 1 1/8"
6. Rear Mono-Shock rebound-- 3 clicks from full soft, according to the dial on the tunnel. In other words, turn it all the way to full soft & then 3 clicks toward hard. NOTE: the compression feel will also change as the rebound is set tighter for weight & trail conditions.
7. Some people have gone 1-2 notches tighter on the limiter strap. I personally have tried it & noticed no difference from the stock location.
REMINDER!! the rear setting can & will have to change some depending on your weight & trail conditions. This also will change the feel of the compression too.
On a side note also. As we all know the stock Yamaha skis suck major balls. Dually runners in the 6-10" range are highly recommended. As are Snow-Trackers if you choose that route.
ONE EDIT TO THIS SETUP: Whenever my wife rides the sled, I put the Mono-Shock preload to full soft. She said the middle setting was a little harsh for her. She's about 125 lbs with gear. I don't think many of us guys here are only a buck-thirty geared up, but be aware that a light rider may want the Mono set on soft.
Any other questions, just ask.
Firecat_Freak
Pro
Ok, so you are basically setting the compression and rebound to the minimum settings, which the book says is three clicks from full out.
What would the opposite do on the trail say for full cw on the compression? Less body roll ie less ski lift, but harder on the bumps?
What would the opposite do on the trail say for full cw on the compression? Less body roll ie less ski lift, but harder on the bumps?
Compression - The rate on how fast the shock is allowed to compressed when acted against.
Rebound - The rate on how fast the shock is allowed to return to its extended length.
0 or turned completely ccw will allow the shock to compress easily=soft.
16(?) or completely cw will hold back the shock making the shock react slowly = hard
Setting the shocks to hard will stiffen up the ride giving less initial roll but will sacrifice straight line and bump comfort.
As far as ski lift goes, sway bar, transfer rod settings and how much you swing your butt over can help in this area.
Rebound - The rate on how fast the shock is allowed to return to its extended length.
0 or turned completely ccw will allow the shock to compress easily=soft.
16(?) or completely cw will hold back the shock making the shock react slowly = hard
Setting the shocks to hard will stiffen up the ride giving less initial roll but will sacrifice straight line and bump comfort.
As far as ski lift goes, sway bar, transfer rod settings and how much you swing your butt over can help in this area.
Firecat_Freak
Pro
I hoisted up the rear last night and checked the transfer rode adjustment. It looks to be one tick from the half way point on the max side.
theCATman
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Firecat_Freak said:
Unless you like a lot of weight transfer, turn it in to my setting measurement. This will keep the skis planted & the whole sled more settled.
Firecat_Freak
Pro
It's got too much weight transfer right now. It's fun, but overboard when trying to trail ride it. Currently, the sled can pull the skis up very easily. How much of a change does the transfer rod make to this? If I set the rod to the min, will the skis come up at all?
How are you coming up with the measurement? I have only referenced the owner's manual and using the tool currently. I figured I'd at least make an adjustment in so it was on the other side of the middle point.
How are you coming up with the measurement? I have only referenced the owner's manual and using the tool currently. I figured I'd at least make an adjustment in so it was on the other side of the middle point.
theCATman
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http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... c&start=15
And no... no more wheelies. It keeps the sled planted. You want no more ski lift & better handling.... or do you wanna show off & pop wheelies & be tippy???
And no... no more wheelies. It keeps the sled planted. You want no more ski lift & better handling.... or do you wanna show off & pop wheelies & be tippy???
Firecat_Freak
Pro
Well, that's like askin a guy if he wants a blonde with big boobs, or just a blonde or just boobs.
I'm going to try setting to min, and then working my way back to some tolerable ski lift.
Thanks for the help .
I'm going to try setting to min, and then working my way back to some tolerable ski lift.
Thanks for the help .
Firecat_Freak
Pro
I'm in the shop adjusting the transfer rod before a ride today, and I think this thing was set past max transfer. I read the book again and I see using the tool I'm not supposed to include the locking collar. My question is, is the tool supposed to butt up to the adjusting collar, or hook over the top when taking the measurement? I think I'm going to put this to a bit below the half transfer point and try it.
87gtNOS
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Here's how it works, explained by my good friend Larry.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... ock#767886
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... ock#767886
Firecat_Freak
Pro
Just a quick update to my latest suspension calibrations.
The latest I tried was putting the transfer rod to the middle position. This was originally a little bit past the max position. Sled is way different. I'm actually going to try a little bit less transfer yet and see how I like. I also let the limiter strap all the way down per Sno-Tracker's recommended set-up instructions. I think this in combination with less transfer has made it a much better handling snowmobile. It's getting closer to my Z1 turbo.
The latest I tried was putting the transfer rod to the middle position. This was originally a little bit past the max position. Sled is way different. I'm actually going to try a little bit less transfer yet and see how I like. I also let the limiter strap all the way down per Sno-Tracker's recommended set-up instructions. I think this in combination with less transfer has made it a much better handling snowmobile. It's getting closer to my Z1 turbo.
