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Can't believe how off The factory ski tow was off!!

Because both skis are placed at an equal distance from the center of the sled both steering arms have to be equal lengths to keep both skis perfectly parallel to the track...with that said to tow the right ski out 3/8 of an inch you must shorten the right steering arn (pull it in to kick out the ski)...so basically all I've done different is run the threads on one steering ball joint instead of spreading equally over the two ball joints. In the end one steering rod has to be shorter to tow out only the right ski. It can't be done with both steering rods the exact same length. My way is just easier.
 

Funny/interesting how really knowing the physics and engineering principles makes a difference when applied correctly. I only am interested /intrigued don't know enough to be anything more than dangerous.

That had to be fun to know why with similar cars you could make the car handle better.
 
yzf1999 said:
Because both skis are placed at an equal distance from the center of the sled both steering arms have to be equal lengths to keep both skis perfectly parallel to the track...with that said to tow the right ski out 3/8 of an inch you must shorten the right steering arn (pull it in to kick out the ski)...so basically all I've done different is run the threads on one steering ball joint instead of spreading equally over the two ball joints. In the end one steering rod has to be shorter to tow out only the right ski. It can't be done with both steering rods the exact same length. My way is just easier.
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Your way will be fine. But the "correct" way would be to make both arms the exact same length, then adjust the steering post rod to center the post. But like I said yours is fine just pointing out how it works so no one turns one side in a bunch and has funny steering one way.
 
Nope..you set the bars perfectly straight and align the left ski perfectly straight with the track. Then adjust the left steering rod length with the ball joint and place it in the spindle. That keeps the bars straight. Then you tow out the right ski 3/8 of an inch adjust the right steering arm length by turning in or out the ball joint and bolt it back into the right spendel. Pretty easy actually.
 
I always set bars straight and both skis straight then adjust each ski out equally 1/2 the total tow out I want. By only adjusting one of the skis out when you go straight the skis will naturally find 1/2 the total tow in other words your left ski is going to move out and move your bars with it. They won't be straight but it may be something you won't even notice or just get used to. Not a big deal and the tow out is obviously most important.
 
That's normally how I do it too, but the instructions C&A sent with the skis showed only the right ski towed out 3/8 of an inch. Doesn't it look like just the right ski is towed out?
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Now that I think about it they might of made the drawing that way so they could show both a parallel ski to the track and a ski towed out 3/8 of an inch. I think I'm gonna redo them the normal way. I was thinking the different tow method was a C&A ski specific thing..lol
 
Cool. Those CA Pro directions definitely are confusing. Should be a step one and step two. I wasn't going to make a big deal about it but was worried others would do same. Truth is over the years I have had more than one quad and sled with bars way out of whack from roll or crash and its something you get used to pretty easily.
 
Funny I did all the measuring to get 3/16 on both sides on my Vector LTX with curves. Had a slight pull, so I set the ski opposite the pull out like 1/2 to 3/4 a turn out and then she had no pull and minimal dart despite single keel and aggressive carbide.
 
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It's definitely worth playing around with. On Phazer I have been running 3/4 in out for years. Eats carbides but sure helped bump steer. Whatever works!
 
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