I'd certainlny try it with the gas cap removed to eliminate that possibility as air needs to enter the gas tank to take the place of fuel removed by the engine. If the tank can't get air the fuel won't flow, similar to putting your finger on the end of a straw and holding liquid inside. Take your finger off and the liquid flows right out.
If that doesn't work it's likely a sticky float valve. For lack of a better description, the valve works like the float in a toilet tank. When water is removed from the tank the float drops, opening a valve to resupply the tank until the float gets to the top and closes the valve. The float in your carb works the same way.
If the float valve sticks it may allow enough fuel to enter over time to run the engine for a bit but won't allow enough in to keep it running.
My least favorite personal float valve experience had mine stick open and over time filled the engine and the airbox full of fuel. I went to check the oil before starting and WHOOSH!
I didn't like that very much.
If that doesn't work it's likely a sticky float valve. For lack of a better description, the valve works like the float in a toilet tank. When water is removed from the tank the float drops, opening a valve to resupply the tank until the float gets to the top and closes the valve. The float in your carb works the same way.
If the float valve sticks it may allow enough fuel to enter over time to run the engine for a bit but won't allow enough in to keep it running.
My least favorite personal float valve experience had mine stick open and over time filled the engine and the airbox full of fuel. I went to check the oil before starting and WHOOSH!
I didn't like that very much.
blades
Extreme
there is some electical buzzing noise that comes from this black box along side of where all the fuses are located, like the sound a dead battery makes when you are trying to start you car over and over not that tick , tick sound when it all the way dead but more to when its almost all the way deay and its just kind of going tttttttttttt, tttttttttttt, tttttttttttt. I think this maybe this is the problem or at least part of it, can anyone confirm? does anyone have any knowledge to what this little black box does what its purpose is. I think I am getting somewhere now!
thanks again everone!
Blades
thanks again everone!
Blades
Blades, you're bringing back all my worst nightmares, guess that's how we learn these things.
I've heard that noise with both a low battery as well as loose battery connections. The picture below illustrates when I thought my little black box puked out on the trail but it turned out to be loose connections..
In your case, I'm thinking your battery may be running down with all of the starting attempts.
I've heard that noise with both a low battery as well as loose battery connections. The picture below illustrates when I thought my little black box puked out on the trail but it turned out to be loose connections..
In your case, I'm thinking your battery may be running down with all of the starting attempts.
Attachments
blades
Extreme
you are right my friend, I found that out today! but now I stil have a problem (the origanal one) so I'm going to pull the carb off with the help of a friend that understands how to do these things and give it a good cleaning, I really think this is the problem...you see the last day that I took it out it was around 98 or so a very dry and lots and lots of dust and I think that something worked its way into the carb. anyway thats what Im going to do and maybe I will be lucky and fix this problem.
does anyone have a guide to taking a carb apart, you know one of those help books only the kind you can down load or send to some one. if so can you please send me the part/page I need for the carb so I can make sure everything goes the way it should. I know I have been dragging this on for a few days now but I hope to bring this to an end here shrotly with some help. Thanks to everyone for your help!!!!
does anyone have a guide to taking a carb apart, you know one of those help books only the kind you can down load or send to some one. if so can you please send me the part/page I need for the carb so I can make sure everything goes the way it should. I know I have been dragging this on for a few days now but I hope to bring this to an end here shrotly with some help. Thanks to everyone for your help!!!!
- Joined
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- Snowmobile
- 2016 apex xtx
2011 apex xtx
2009 phaser rtx/x
1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
this will sound foolish but is the gas on?
had a problem like this with my xt 350. if you let it sit for 10 min it would start and run fine then die. my fuel shut off lets enough past for the bike to run for 3 min, in other words enough to fill the foat bowl just sitting. boy i felt like an #*$&@ when i found this just after i took it out of storage.
had a problem like this with my xt 350. if you let it sit for 10 min it would start and run fine then die. my fuel shut off lets enough past for the bike to run for 3 min, in other words enough to fill the foat bowl just sitting. boy i felt like an #*$&@ when i found this just after i took it out of storage.
Don't feel bad Blades, you're the one suffering with your sick bear and we're just reading about it.
You can see the parts sheet breakdown of the carb online at http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outdoor/ser ... /home.aspx
Go to View Parts Catalog, select the year and model of your bike then select carburetor. You can then print the image to have it handy while working on your carb.
If nothing else, I would buy Yamaha simply for the online parts manuals..... Well, OK there's lots of other reasons but these things have gotten me out of trouble more times than I can count.
Good luck, have fun and if you're not real careful you'll probably learn a few things.
You can see the parts sheet breakdown of the carb online at http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outdoor/ser ... /home.aspx
Go to View Parts Catalog, select the year and model of your bike then select carburetor. You can then print the image to have it handy while working on your carb.
If nothing else, I would buy Yamaha simply for the online parts manuals..... Well, OK there's lots of other reasons but these things have gotten me out of trouble more times than I can count.
Good luck, have fun and if you're not real careful you'll probably learn a few things.
shanksRX-1
Expert
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- Feb 6, 2006
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- Pennellville, NY
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- Snowmobile
- 2010 Apex
- LOCATION
- Pennellville, NY
blades said:
After reading this entire post I really thing this is your answer. Its just finding the cause... If it sets for a while and then starts for a few seconds it sounds like there is possibly a restriction or almost a total blockage in the fuel line and just enough fuel is leaking past it with time, to allow it to start for a few seconds then it runs right out of fuel.
possibly when you were trucking it dirt got mixed up and blocked up the fuel line in the tank or a piece of dirt in the fuel line turned and blocked it. I would take the fuel line from the tank to the carb off and see if there is anything in it. Im not sure but you may be able to just unplug it from the carb and see if fuel flows through it. If it does then fuel is going to your carb and the problem is in your carb its self.
also I hate to say this because it is contraversial and some people disagree but I HATE K&N filters. I used to race banshees for years and I have alot of experience building and tearing down 2 strokes and have found K&N filters let way way too much dirt through. They do allow more air to flow but they also allow alot of dirt in. If you hold a well oiled K&N filter up to the light you will see all kinds of small pin holes in it that allow dirt to flow right through. with a K&N filter on a banshee you can see the accelerated wear on the rings after just one race. After just 2 races the edge was gone off my rings when I was using K&N filters on my banshees.
Your filter may have let in some dirt that plugged up one of the small port holes in the carb.
I bet a good carb cleaning would really make a difference too. Then do what I, and all my race buddies did and put that K&N filter on ebay and get rid of it and get yourself a good foam filter that will stop the dirt when its still outside your motor....
I hope this gives you some ideas..
Ganz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I agree that it's not getting fuel. Before taking the carb apart I would pull the gas line off the carb and turn on the gas. If you have a good flow of gas then it has to be in the carbif not the gas line is plugged. I haven't taken't a grizz carb apart (yet) but I'm betting you can just loosen the clamps and turn it to pull the bowl off and check the float needle. See if there is a bunch of crud in the bottom of the bowl.
blades
Extreme
All of you guys are great, thanks for the info and feed back, I am going take the line off first before the carb (friend is a no show) comes of and see if gas pumps out of it, I think it could be that based on one of the feed backs. it seems to get enough gas to just start after a while and burn it and then it cuts off so Im going to start with that.
Again, thanks EVERYONE, you all been very helpful.
Blades.
Again, thanks EVERYONE, you all been very helpful.
Blades.
ROACH
Newbie
Had the same problem a few weeks ago. Took the Grizz to the shop and the float needle was seized up. After that was fixed she starts right up.
It will surprise you what could get in the gas now adays..
It will surprise you what could get in the gas now adays..
blades
Extreme
I got it running but I got to tell you all its not the same. it souns like its spitting and spuddering then when I try to step on it it feels like it wants to cut off. I may have to take it apart again only this time I think Im ging to replace the needle and seat.
BLADES
BLADES
