Carb Sync

[Metallicat]

Well, I finally have a good carb sync tool (the Morgan Carbtune Pro). Now I just need to find out how to hook up my sync tool and where to intall the "T" joint that I read about on the forums. I don't have a manual, so if someone could help me out I would much appreciate it! I also don't have any experience with syncing carbs so keep in mind I am a complete novice.

Here is a good pic of the carbs:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41072619@N06/4093477679

Is the #1 carb on the right (PTO) and #3 on the left (MAG)?

The carb on the far left has this capped fitting. Is this the reference carb? Do I hook one of my sync tool lines directly to this fitting?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41072619@N06/4093476349

Here are the 2 vacuum lines that connect 2 of the carbs together. Where do I install the T fitting, and how do I then sync one of the carbs and then the other? I have no idea how I should proceed at this point and beyond.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41072619@N06/4094237642

There are 2 screws just below the spring in this picture, on either side of it. I suppose these are the adjustment screws.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41072619@N06/4094238266

Finally, does syncing the carbs only affect the butterfly valve opening, or is it supposed to sync the spring loaded slide valves in front of the butterflies which are operated from vacuum pressure?

Thanks for the help!

Sorry, the Images wouldn't post directly so I had to set them up as url links...

 

[jlparker77]

yes, hook your line to the capped fitting on #1. then pull the vacuum lines off of the others, that you have pics of, and hook into those, all in the same place on the carbs. I don't know anything about a t fitting, but just hook 3 lines onto 3 carbs, and adjust the screw on that you showed, it should have a little yellow spot on it. one screw for #2 and one for #3. Make them all read the same. Tiny adjustments. Burp the throttle after every adjustment. It does only move the butterfly, but by doing that it also evens the vacuum going to the slides. Just jump in and try it. it is not a big deal, especially with that nice tool.

good luck

i think that is the jist of it

 

[pistons]

The carb closest to the throttle cable is "master".
The gray lines are your vacuum lines.- (The black lines are fuel bowl vents.) - One is capped. The other two run your fuel pump and both need "teed.The two screws are what you will use to adjust the carbs. Do the middle one first to match the master. Then do the last one to match the master and middle. Slightly blip throttle while doing this, and let in settle down before making adjustments. Syncing will affect butterfly opening thus the spring slides. Do you have instructions for your tool? As there are probably Pre Calibration precedures, before you can start the whole process.

 

[Metallicat]

The carb closest to the throttle cable is "master".
The gray lines are your vacuum lines.- (The black lines are fuel bowl vents.) - One is capped. The other two run your fuel pump and both need "teed.

What exactly do you mean that they need to be "teed" and how do I "tee" them? I can't see where I would need to insert a t-joint.

Do I unplug one of the gray lines, insert a tee, run hose from one end of the tee to the carb and use the remaining open tee end to measure with my sync tool?

 

[jlparker77]

It sounds like those vacuum lines run your fuel pumps, so they will need to be hooked up for it to run while you adjust them. Just like you described hook a T in and do it like that. It sounds like you know how to do it. By the way, How do you like your vector? I just got one for a pretty good deal, but it needs a few things. I am pretty excited about it though.

Jade

 

[Metallicat]

Yep, I figured it out. Thanks! I'm not going to insert the T as the sled will idle for quite a while with the fuel pump lines unhooked. It only takes a few seconds to adjust each carb. Mine were off a bit.

I love my Vector! It is positively a fantastic trail machine and a few adjustments here and there make it even better. My only remaining complaint is the stock skis, and the fact that it is a bit tippy and hard to turn on tight trails.

 

[jlparker77]

the one I bought is a 2005 mountain. the big thing it needs is a primary clutch. The original is actually broken. So I am gonna try either a polaris or comet or cat or something different. Money is an issue, just need to figure a starting point for tuning. Oh, It has 3000 miles. I feel good about the deal, even with the clutch problem.

 

[Metallicat]

Polaris clutches use the same taper as Yamaha so that is a good option for a clutch replacement. I think you'll need a shim, however. Hartman explained it to me last year. I would give him a call since he sets up mountain Yamahas with Polaris clutches. You can find good prices on used P-85 clutches so watch the classifieds / ebay / craigslist for parted out sleds. I'm sure you can get a nice one for $200 or less. That is a good price you paid for the sled I think.

 

[jlparker77]

the only thing I know about is the bolt is too long, so it needs to be cut or spaced out, not sure of other stuff. I think I will start a new thread and see what other people are using for weights and springs in there polaris clutches.

thanks