1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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Yep, the 1 in a million happened to me....Looks like you just got unlucky. I had dualies on the apex for awhile and never had any problems with RR tracks. Not even sure how you could do it considering the rounded profile of the top of RR tracks so you got very unlucky, maybe you caught the seam between two track segments?
biffdotorg
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That photo is a clear indication that the ski was not shimmed properly. When running any carbide, if you see uneven wear from front to back, it's a sign of needing to be shimmed.
It's downright amazing how different a sled handles when the skis are setup properly. And it is accentuated when you run double or triple carbide wear bars. It's the very reason Snowtracker, Bergstrom and Woody's preach about shimming properly.
The reason you hooked something was that the frront of the wear bar was worn to the point of breaking loose. If properly shimmed the host bar would not have allowed the base metal to have been worn down to the bolt going through the ski.
Been there, done that myself. So don't take this as beating on you.
It's downright amazing how different a sled handles when the skis are setup properly. And it is accentuated when you run double or triple carbide wear bars. It's the very reason Snowtracker, Bergstrom and Woody's preach about shimming properly.
The reason you hooked something was that the frront of the wear bar was worn to the point of breaking loose. If properly shimmed the host bar would not have allowed the base metal to have been worn down to the bolt going through the ski.
Been there, done that myself. So don't take this as beating on you.
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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The reason that carbide is bent is due to the fact of the rr tracks have a square steel beam as an approach at this location. It has a sharp edge.That photo is a clear indication that the ski was not shimmed properly. When running any carbide, if you see uneven wear from front to back, it's a sign of needing to be shimmed.
It's downright amazing how different a sled handles when the skis are setup properly. And it is accentuated when you run double or triple carbide wear bars. It's the very reason Snowtracker, Bergstrom and Woody's preach about shimming properly.
The reason you hooked something was that the frront of the wear bar was worn to the point of breaking loose. If properly shimmed the host bar would not have allowed the base metal to have been worn down to the bolt going through the ski.
Been there, done that myself. So don't take this as beating on you.
The sled was moving slow and ski dropped down from the snow and flexed when ski tip hit the track and exposed the front of the runner.
Poor design on the runner and ski combo as the front of the runner does not go thru the ski to keep all intact in this situation.
Those dual carbides were on another sled then installed on this one to try. Same ski combo.
Ski shimming has nothing to do with the front of the ski flexing up and exposing the front of the runners.
1nc 2000
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This is how the skis are set.That photo is a clear indication that the ski was not shimmed properly. When running any carbide, if you see uneven wear from front to back, it's a sign of needing to be shimmed.
It's downright amazing how different a sled handles when the skis are setup properly. And it is accentuated when you run double or triple carbide wear bars. It's the very reason Snowtracker, Bergstrom and Woody's preach about shimming properly.
The reason you hooked something was that the frront of the wear bar was worn to the point of breaking loose. If properly shimmed the host bar would not have allowed the base metal to have been worn down to the bolt going through the ski.
Been there, done that myself. So don't take this as beating on you.
Its not a shimming issue .
1nc 2000
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Destroyed a subframe, ski, ski saddle and runner.
Thats a nasty edge to catch with any carbide.
Lets keeps this thread true to the title
Lets keeps this thread true to the title
Fortress
Pro
Yup stud boy duallys 6” I’ve been beating on mine for 10 years (and I cross lots of roads) still look great
1nc 2000
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Yep it was ugly.Thats a nasty edge to catch with any carbide.
Lets keeps this thread true to the title
The reason why I shared it is the design of the dual runners and how they fit does not allow for flex up and down and the experience I had with them.
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Sorry for your bad experience, but that is a blanket statement made for all dual carbides that is just not true.Yep it was ugly.
The reason why I shared it is the design of the dual runners and how they fit does not allow for flex up and down and the experience I had with them.
Woody's for example have a 4 bolt going through the ski and the leading edge has a tab inserted into the ski. There is no sharp edge. And the whole idea of shimming is the lift that leading edge to eliminate wear in the very spot where yours failed.
So what dual runners were you using, as it sure wasn't Woody's dooleys, snow trackers or bergstroms. Unless you literally wore the leading edge off. Your ski shows signs of it too. But I get it, there is a chance the ski flexed and the wear bar did not, so I get the possibility. It would just be very uncommon and not the norm.
Again, sorry for your issue, but one cannot make blanket statements like this without getting pushback from those of us with over 25,000 miles running dual carbides crossing roads and railroad tracks.
1nc 2000
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I wasn't going to name the snow studs double down runners that did all this damage.Sorry for your bad experience, but that is a blanket statement made for all dual carbides that is just not true.
Woody's for example have a 4 bolt going through the ski and the leading edge has a tab inserted into the ski. There is no sharp edge. And the whole idea of shimming is the lift that leading edge to eliminate wear in the very spot where yours failed.
So what dual runners were you using, as it sure wasn't Woody's dooleys, snow trackers or bergstroms. Unless you literally wore the leading edge off. Your ski shows signs of it too. But I get it, there is a chance the ski flexed and the wear bar did not, so I get the possibility. It would just be very uncommon and not the norm.
Again, sorry for your issue, but one cannot make blanket statements like this without getting pushback from those of us with over 25,000 miles running dual carbides crossing roads and railroad tracks.
But those are the runners that a couple post before mine they were talking about.
Its not a blanket statement so admit your wrong and move on buddy.
Fortress
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I believe you are wrong for blaming the runners for those nasty tracks you cross.
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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Snow Studs double down runners are a poor design and will get someone seriously hurt or killed. I would tell everyone who has them to remove them and get a different design.
The front of the runner has a square edge.
When the ski flexed upwards it created an opening between the ski and the runner therfore the runner turned into a spear and hooked what was in front of it.
Very poor design.
I wasn't going to name the manufacturer but here we are.
I will never run them again.
The front of the runner has a square edge.
When the ski flexed upwards it created an opening between the ski and the runner therfore the runner turned into a spear and hooked what was in front of it.
Very poor design.
I wasn't going to name the manufacturer but here we are.
I will never run them again.
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I like the Yamaha Champ Runner. No idea who makes them for Yamaha.
Have done a similar thing on my old SX chassis. Hit a concrete driveway approach that was hidden by the snow. Was using Viper skis with single 6" carbide. Rippped the front 2 bolts of the carbide right off the ski and buckled the trailing arm. The right combo of things can make for a serious issue. Thank goodness this does not happen more often in our sport.Yep it was ugly.
The reason why I shared it is the design of the dual runners and how they fit does not allow for flex up and down and the experience I had with them.
Now back to the topic of Carbide Recommendations.
I have used doubles and did not like their tendency to push in the corners. Did like how they eliminated the darting tho.
Bergstromms along with the shim and the ski saver a great. Not darting and good cornering ability, even on pavement.
Snowtrackers are my go to now. Add these to a mtn ski and my sled can rail thru the corners, no darting and the steering feels light. The only downside to them other than the price is they don't grab well when turning on concrete.
A major thing to consider is the type of ski you use according to the conditions you have. My setup works flawless in my area. Went to Muni and found my setup had a slight push in their snow conditions. There are sooo many things to consider. Rider weight, track length, studded track, ski type, riding style, riding conditions and so on.
Use the Search button in the upper right corner. You can spend hours reading about carbides and ski setups and find a combo that speaks to you and your budget
Dynomax666
Extreme
snowtrackersWhat is a good carbide for a 2006 Apex GT. Riding is mainly on groomed trails.
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