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carbon coming out the exhaust

Mbarryracing it’s funny you say that cause that’s when it does it the most. Gets all over the trailer walls and sled if there’s one behind it. I just park it at the end now. But how’s your gas mileage. Mine doesn’t seem to good. I might next year put the stock air box in because I bought one from Allen to keep the stock just in case and take the fuel programmer out if I can’t figure it out. The Hauck silencer won’t have an affect will it?
 
blevis213,
I've never had a 4 stroke Yamaha with rear exiting exhaust NOT spit a little gray sooty water out during warm up, usually just some evidence on the tunnel extension and grab bar or around the rear plastics when stock but not like that...
Two things...
First it takes exhaust outlet velocity to sling it out all over that far like you described, which is a result of that silencer... My turbo Apex slings it pretty good, enough that I stand a piece of cardboard up behind it when i start it up in the shop so it doesn't lightly spritz everything behind it, but it also only has a small muffler after the turbo so the exhaust velocity is pretty fast too. It also idles at 1800 RPM and makes LOT of condensation during warm up.

Second there has to be a pretty good existing amount of soot buildup in the exhaust to wash out with the condensation like that too, and that doesn't just happen during warm up. It's a result of the sled running too rich ALL the time, which is a result of your add-on fuel controller programming (and that doesn't take much to also directly influence fuel mileage). Again my turbo Apex makes a lot of soot too because the AFR is rich most of the time due to the high boost levels it runs.

So you have a combo of things making it into a "slinger", but rest assured it's not a mechanical issue with the engine.
 
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Another thing I noticed is my status light does not light up. Could be just a blown bulb. Unhooking the ground wire the sled will not start not sure why ulmer told me to do that. So I know the fuel module is working just no light.
 
Great point!
I leaned my maps out at idle so that they weren't so rich at idle speeds on warm up. I like to see around 14:1 at idle once warm. No need for the fuel to be so rich there, (I was seeing mid to low 13's when warm) and 11's when cold.
I also think the condensation you mention is what prematurely killed my O2 sensor.
Would you share what you changed and how you know what to change.
 
Would you share what you changed and how you know what to change.
negative numbers on the PCIII or PCV. In the idle and high idle range @ O% throttle.
Let the O2 sensor be your guide.
 


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