
WolfOne
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Ok, it's time to start this project.
Asking, if not hurt anyone, to leave this post here in mountain section that is like a 'virtual home' for WolfOne and his Grumpy sled.
Really not sure at all that i'll be able to reach the goal ... in the past days I was thinking that could be a better deal to sell my supercharger and the remainig few good parts and buy a new RMK.
But I love this sled, I love the 4 stroke and I love new challenges.
Work will be slow and long due to my few free time and few money to spend in the sled.
Those are some pictures of the starting point (not a complete pictured report because i had few time to disassembly the sled).
The burned and bended Timbersled tunnel and Mt Tamer Rear
The crankcase with the new "air vent"
Engine's hole see from the bottom (the oil pan was safe for few mm)
Engine's hole see from the top (first with pistons and rods removed and second with crankshaft removed)
Piston and rod nr2 (the central) and crankshaft
I'm buying a used crankcase and crankshaft.
I think i'll install Crower rods, JE Pistons and ARP head studs (all from Mountain Performance).
Than i'll decide if safe use this setup with 10 psi of boost or push it to 15 psi.
In the meantime I'm washing all good items and I'm ending the drawing of my own monocoque tunnel/frame.
Asking, if not hurt anyone, to leave this post here in mountain section that is like a 'virtual home' for WolfOne and his Grumpy sled.
Really not sure at all that i'll be able to reach the goal ... in the past days I was thinking that could be a better deal to sell my supercharger and the remainig few good parts and buy a new RMK.
But I love this sled, I love the 4 stroke and I love new challenges.
Work will be slow and long due to my few free time and few money to spend in the sled.
Those are some pictures of the starting point (not a complete pictured report because i had few time to disassembly the sled).
The burned and bended Timbersled tunnel and Mt Tamer Rear




The crankcase with the new "air vent"


Engine's hole see from the bottom (the oil pan was safe for few mm)

Engine's hole see from the top (first with pistons and rods removed and second with crankshaft removed)


Piston and rod nr2 (the central) and crankshaft





I'm buying a used crankcase and crankshaft.
I think i'll install Crower rods, JE Pistons and ARP head studs (all from Mountain Performance).
Than i'll decide if safe use this setup with 10 psi of boost or push it to 15 psi.
In the meantime I'm washing all good items and I'm ending the drawing of my own monocoque tunnel/frame.


birkebeiner
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WOW! Amazing that you and your passanger walked away from that crash in one piece!!!
Must have been a hugh impact since motor is blown, even internally...!
Stay safe and take care! Look forward to see your carbon build!

Stay safe and take care! Look forward to see your carbon build!
ruffryder
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
holy crap, that engine looks rough!


sonds
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Love your new boat anchor 

kilometers
Pro
looks like to much heat and lack of oil on that rod bearing.... this was the one that blew up after being stuck wide open right?..
what did you find out about the motor price wise?
factory crank etc price? what is replacable and what do you have to buy as an assmbly?
used crank price? and availablitity?.
how many km on the engine ?
any other noticable bearing damage? cylinder etc?
what did you find out about the motor price wise?
factory crank etc price? what is replacable and what do you have to buy as an assmbly?
used crank price? and availablitity?.
how many km on the engine ?
any other noticable bearing damage? cylinder etc?
bholmlate
Expert
OH!!! the carnage
To quote bagadonitz from your accident post "ooh that will still buff out" I think
if you plan on reusing any motor parts I would have them Mag tested for hidden cracks. It looks like there were a lot of stresses at work before she blew her top.
Good luck on the re-build. Glad to see the re-newed interest in re-building it


To quote bagadonitz from your accident post "ooh that will still buff out" I think
if you plan on reusing any motor parts I would have them Mag tested for hidden cracks. It looks like there were a lot of stresses at work before she blew her top.
Good luck on the re-build. Glad to see the re-newed interest in re-building it

Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
What's the head look like?

WolfOne
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kilometers said:looks like to much heat and lack of oil on that rod bearing.... this was the one that blew up after being stuck wide open right?..
what did you find out about the motor price wise?
factory crank etc price? what is replacable and what do you have to buy as an assmbly?
used crank price? and availablitity?.
how many km on the engine ?
any other noticable bearing damage? cylinder etc?
Yes this my engine after 30-40 seconds @wot on right side.
I can re use all the head, water pump, oil pan and pump, magneto and minors.
Needs crankcase, crankshaft, rods, pistons, all bearings and shims.
Engine has 1500 km with the last 500 with the supercharger @230 hp.
Lots of nytro engine out there!
All items i need are around 2000 $

WolfOne
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Roest said:What's the head look like?
It's incredible but the head is perfect ... Just som 'incrostation' on the central one!
tapex_07
TY 4 Stroke Master
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- '10 Nytro MTX SE IMPULSE 174x3
'14 Viper XTX SE MPI 159x14x1.25
'07 Apex RTX SC2 MPI 128x1
Can't wait to see the CF parts!! Good luck with the rebuild too!

WolfOne
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$&!t ... my wife crashed also her car (no injuries).
My new motor will be transformed in a car repair
I trust in God and i'm a positive thinker ... Otherwise i could think that in the last month, something dark is around me
Suspend engine repair and switch to nex step: chassis mold
My new motor will be transformed in a car repair

I trust in God and i'm a positive thinker ... Otherwise i could think that in the last month, something dark is around me

Suspend engine repair and switch to nex step: chassis mold
mtdream
TY 4 Stroke Master
hang in there man!!!!
life happens...God is good, and is in control!!
life happens...God is good, and is in control!!
loudelectronics
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Just an FYI on the ARP studs. They are a great stud for holding things tight. However stock studs are 9mm and the ARP studs are 8.5 mm. So what happens over time is that the ARP studs put to much stress on the threads and eventually under the right conditions the threads let go. They just do not hold on to enough thread. If they were exactly the same size as the stockers they would be perfect.
Its nice to be able to torque down even more then stock (45 vs. 32) but add a little heat and vibration and the threads just pop out. Learned the hardway is all. Have a brand new cylinder with 100k on it and cant use it couse the arp studs pulled the threads out.
Its nice to be able to torque down even more then stock (45 vs. 32) but add a little heat and vibration and the threads just pop out. Learned the hardway is all. Have a brand new cylinder with 100k on it and cant use it couse the arp studs pulled the threads out.
Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
The Nytro uses head bolts. They are 10mm and the threads mike out at 9.83mm.
loudelectronics
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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Roest said:The Nytro uses head bolts. They are 10mm and the threads mike out at 9.83mm.
I was assuming the studs for the head on a grizzly would be same size as the sled. So that said, make sure to measure the ARP's to make sure they are same size as stock. They sure were not for the grizzly.
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