Center Shock Spring

[twyztid]

I am about 185-lbs undressed. Do you guys think the Cat 2704-229 160/260 center shock spring would be too stiff for me on my 17 LTX SE? I ride aggressively and mostly in the New-berry-Grand Marais-Seney-Munising areas in Michigan so there is a LOT of time spent on whooped out trails. I currently have the stock 90/250 spring with minimal preload on it. The sled handles corners great but I am also experiencing the rear bottoming out easy on somewhat hard hits. Hard enough to have track clip marks on the top side of the plastic torsion spring holders. I have the rear torsion springs set on the middle position (these are SRX/Thundercat torsions that have less preload but a higher spring rate than the stock LTX torsions).

Also, when you guys are listing preload measurements (threads showing) on the center shock, is that with the limiter straps set or before the spring/shock is sucked up a little by reattaching the limiter straps?

 

[Simplespeed]

What shock settings are you dialed to 1, 2, or 3 Spring setting on center front shock is about a inch of threads still not being used and limiter straps just have enough tension so tight. Rear center shock dial should be on two or one. Rear spring blocks probably run stiffest if plastic stops are removed and or sissor allowed to have max transfer. When you get the rear to work with front track shock properly you will find no need to put stronger front spring only increase dial on whooped out trails . Think of trying to use as much spring as possible but still stop bottoming with shock dial settings… Front shocks should have 3 1/4” thread showing and dialed at #1 or #2 on normal trails… Try this before changing parts and nothing rides great in really rough trails only adjustments not to bottom… Test to find whats best for your weight and your area..

 

[twyztid]

What shock settings are you dialed to 1, 2, or 3 Spring setting on center front shock is about a inch of threads still not being used and limiter straps just have enough tension so tight. Rear center shock dial should be on two or one. Rear spring blocks probably run stiffest if plastic stops are removed and or sissor allowed to have max transfer. When you get the rear to work with front track shock properly you will find no need to put stronger front spring only increase dial on whooped out trails . Think of trying to use as much spring as possible but still stop bottoming with shock dial settings… Front shocks should have 3 1/4” thread showing and dialed at #1 or #2 on normal trails… Try this before changing parts and nothing rides great in really rough trails only adjustments not to bottom… Test to find whats best for your weight and your area..

This is an LTX SE, not and LE, so I do not have the QS3-R shocks. No dials... other than that I do have a QS3 with a DSC adjuster on it on the rear instead of the the 3-position adjuster. I also have Hygear dual-rate springs on my front shocks so your measurements don't apply here.

 

[Simplespeed]

This is an LTX SE, not and LE, so I do not have the QS3-R shocks. No dials... other than that I do have a QS3 with a DSC adjuster on it on the rear instead of the the 3-position adjuster. I also have Hygear dual-rate springs on my front shocks so your measurements don't apply here.

Ya I was assuming you had LE. My bad.. Maybe you might want to consider getting that bigger spring then and having your shocks valued so when you get close to bottom your valued slows that shock rods at a faster rate before it hits bottom..