Chaincase/Frame Cracked

[Voda2000]

I was changing the oil today and found a rather bad crack on the aluminum side frame panel right below the chain case cover. The chaincase don't appear to be leaking but where the aluminum cracked it is pushed closer to the track.

Has anyone ever taken the side panel off?

I'm going to have to either weld it or replace it. Is there anything special required to suport the motor while the panel is off?

 

[cannondale27]

Dang.I would.Maybe just some shims between engine and frame.Do you think a rock or something did the damage?

I am interested in this procedure since would need to do this or remove whole motor to install ported head.Please let us know how it goes.

 

[Macheater]

Just replaced one a few months back on my 09 RTX. Don't know if you have priced the part yet but they are not cheap. You're better off trying to weld it if possible. There is not a lot of protection for the frame section in that particular area. Did you or someone else run over something hard or solid? Where it is pushed in check to make sure there is adequate clearance for the chain/driven sprocket to spin.

As far as removing, they are not too bad, depending on your mechanical experience. Quite a few bolts to remove but, otherwise straight forward. Its always nice to have the factory shop manual as a reference. And no the motor does not need to be supported but, the right side of the machine (no weight on right ski) will need to be supported to remove/swap out that piece.

 

[Voda2000]

Thanks for the responses.

I have no idea how it was damaged but it looks like it was from a rather sharp impact. It must have happened some time last season as I had the chains case apart last fall.

I don't think it effected the chain as it is not leaking.

I looked at those prices and it looks like it will be $400+.

Hopefully I can get it welded. I looked at it again and might be able to weld it in place and grind it downs a little for clearance.

 

[Macheater]

Don't want to hijack the thread but. Cannondale27 you mentioned porting the head. I would give a LOT of thought to that before u take the plunge. As long as ur doing all the work yourself and have plenty of time to kill then it may be practical. Consider the time/benefits ratio. I'm not saying that there may not be some HP to be gained but, the work invested may be prohibitive compared to the small gains in performance. Unless ur racing, thats a different story.

 

[couch]

replaced the one on the clutch side last season - pretty straightforward but took a fair bit of time (better part of a day) ... likely longer for the chaincase side

Seems to be the prime spot for damage on these sleds and there is next to no protection .... would be a good spot for a sacrificial piece of poly for protection - one of the main "damage " areas to look for if anyone is buying used.

 

[cannondale27]

The porting is done already.Just need to justify the time and cost of putting it on.Like you said thats the hurdle.As for small gains I disagree.In my experience using a dyno Porting is the most bang for the buck not including enhancers such as Nitrous.Even with a stock exhaust.Yes I have a AWESOME guy (snowprophet)who did the porting and have no doubt the gains will be great.

 

[Macheater]

Should be interesting. Will u have a chance to dyno the sled? Be sure to keep us all informed of the results.

 

[cannondale27]

I have been talking about it for two years.Kind of waiting for reason to go into motor.Havent had to yet.

Voda and others I wonder If a piece of old slide material would work good for protection there?

 

[yamahas]

I would really like to see pictures of the damage if at all possible?

 

[Voda2000]

Here's some photos.

 

[Macheater]

Ya very similar to what mine looked like. Mine was actually a little worse (had a chunk missin from mine). It actually looks worse than what it is. The important thing is that ur not losin gear oil. You could probably get away with riding like that for years and never know the difference. Again, providing it doesn't start leaking gear oil. If ya absolutely have to have it fixed ya may be able to weld the crack but the casting itself is partially collapsed. There is not much bracing underneath were the bottom rail part of the casting is so when ya hit something hard, that is the result. If ya choose to replace the part like I did ya have to be conscience of not hitting anything and doing the same damage again. NOT an easy thing to do especially if ya go off trail a lot. Ya just never know whats under that powder! Or once its fixed ya can try to come up with some type of protective cover as cannondale27 suggested. The skid plate that I have on there now does not extend far enough back to even come close to giving any protection. Maybe a good project for those that like to fabricate, or invent things, to devote some time to.

 

[yam177]

Here was mine

 

[Macheater]

OUCH!!! That doesn't even look fixable. Is it totaled?

 

[yam177]

OUCH!!! That doesn't even look fixable. Is it totaled?

Nope hit a rock in the I500 had it fixed by the next race

Ran it the next year no problems!!!!