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Chaincase servicing

BTbt

Expert
Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Messages
365
Location
Kettleby, Ontario
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2017 Sidewinder LTX LE
I tried to get small hose down the fill hole on the chaincase to suck the oil out, but no luck.Can the chaincase cover be moved back enough to drain the oil without removing all the engine oil lines? Has to be the most retarded system to change oil, no drain plug and no fill plug.
 

So were you able to get a small 1/4 inch mityvac line down there to suck it out? I have to do mine and really don't wanna pull all the bs off to do the change! Wth were they thinking with no drain plug!!!!!
 
So no one had serviced there chaincase? Interesting! Is there no way to do this without it being a complete joke to disassemble? :o| Couldn't me be more disappointed with this issue! :o| :o| #$%&*
 
So I take it you never researched the procross at all ?
It really not that big of a deal , you don't have to take all the hoses off take off oil tank mounting screws then use a bungee to hold tank to the side pull chain case cover .
:o| :o|
 
Dealer told me it was a PIA to change the chain case oil, said you have to take the oil tank out just to get at the chain case bolts . . . . . . retarded all right! I like to think I can do maintenance on my sleds and save some money but I don't know if this one is worth the aggravation?????
 
I was hoping this was one of the issues Yamaha addressed when they were designing chain adjuster and gears.A little extra machining would have gave us a drain and fill plug.Maybe next year.
 
Terminator said:
Dealer told me it was a PIA to change the chain case oil, said you have to take the oil tank out just to get at the chain case bolts . . . . . . retarded all right! I like to think I can do maintenance on my sleds and save some money but I don't know if this one is worth the aggravation?????

Your dealer is either wrong or just fooling you. You do not have to remove the oil tank to get to the chain case bolts. But yes, its a PIA to get to them, at least one of them.
If you are just changing the oil you need to remove the 11 lower bolts and loosen the 12:th in the top to be able to separate cover/oil tank from chancase, then oil will(in theory) drain thru the hole in the belly pan. The magnet for gathering metal debree is sitting at the end of the shaft...

But yes, it is a totally retarded design, who came up with the idea to not use a drain plug with a magnet on it??? :die
 
RacinJason15 said:
So were you able to get a small 1/4 inch mityvac line down there to suck it out? I have to do mine and really don't wanna pull all the bs off to do the change! Wth were they thinking with no drain plug!!!!!

I haven't tried it but I have heard of guys who have done this on the Cat's. Obviously it's best to pull the cover and get everything cleaned out, but a mityvac type hose should work as long as nothing holds it up going down.
 
drumz11 said:
RacinJason15 said:
So were you able to get a small 1/4 inch mityvac line down there to suck it out? I have to do mine and really don't wanna pull all the bs off to do the change! Wth were they thinking with no drain plug!!!!!

I haven't tried it but I have heard of guys who have done this on the Cat's. Obviously it's best to pull the cover and get everything cleaned out, but a mityvac type hose should work as long as nothing holds it up going down.

Agree to that, at least the first couple of changes one should open up the chain case to get rid of the debree when everything is wearing and shaving on a new sled...
 
So there is "NO" small drain plug located on the inside of the tunnel ? That is a silly design.MM :o|
 
I checked chain tension on my wife's XTX because of issues people were having on this forum, actually checked the entire sled because of issues in here.
I found no loose connections on coolant, fuel or oil lines.
The chain tensioner was 2 turns out instead of 1/4, but no harder to get to than the 02 Viper ER.
I like the Torx head bolts/screws, just use the right size (#30 for the seat bolt not #27) and they are less likely to strip out than Phillips.
You Americans still can't wrap your head around the metric system. You should be able to do 80 some % off the sled with 8, 10, 12 and 14 mm and not be looking for 11 and 13 mm tools.
As far as servicing, your going to do it once a year, not the frequency that other guys do, (motor every 1500K on a POS 800).
:rocks:
 
Terminator said:
The magnet for gathering metal debree is sitting at the end of the shaft...

The main purpose of the magnets is for the speed sensor glues onto the outside of the chaincase... fyi.

I have my whole case apart to swap my track. The gasket is at least an o-ring design which makes it re-usable. Change your chaincase oil at the end of the first season when you do your end-of-season oil change so you can remove the oil hoses to remove the whole chaincase cover with the oil tank left attached.
 
garserio said:
Terminator said:
The magnet for gathering metal debree is sitting at the end of the shaft...

The main purpose of the magnets is for the speed sensor glues onto the outside of the chaincase... fyi.

I have my whole case apart to swap my track. The gasket is at least an o-ring design which makes it re-usable. Change your chaincase oil at the end of the first season when you do your end-of-season oil change so you can remove the oil hoses to remove the whole chaincase cover with the oil tank left attached.

X2, that's what Im gonna do with mine, just wait till the end of this first season before changing the chaincase oil... Have been keeping an eye on chain tension but that's about it.
 
x3 that is what I am doing also. If oil turns grey from moisture then I will MityVac it out. Yes the small hose fits down there easily.
 
cannondale27 said:
x3 that is what I am doing also. If oil turns grey from moisture then I will MityVac it out. Yes the small hose fits down there easily.



wtf is a mityvac?
 


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