Changing bearing on lower gear

[02ViperMody44]

I am swapping out the lower gear on my Apex, and bought a gear and the bearing / bearing cage separate. Can someone let me know if I just have to press the bearing in? Do you use loc-tite at all? Freeze the bearing/heat the gear? I have a press, but was just looking for some advice, as I haven't had the pleasurable experience.
Thanks in advance,
Rick

 

[MrSled]

I am swapping out the lower gear on my Apex, and bought a gear and the bearing / bearing cage separate. Can someone let me know if I just have to press the bearing in? Do you use loc-tite at all? Freeze the bearing/heat the gear? I have a press, but was just looking for some advice, as I haven't had the pleasurable experience.
Thanks in advance,
Rick

The bearings in the chain case?

 

[Brotherdan]

I

I am swapping out the lower gear on my Apex, and bought a gear and the bearing / bearing cage separate. Can someone let me know if I just have to press the bearing in? Do you use loc-tite at all? Freeze the bearing/heat the gear? I have a press, but was just looking for some advice, as I haven't had the pleasurable experience.
Thanks in advance,
Rick

I just did this on my rx1.it was much easier than the bearings in the chaincase halves!I measured the depth of the old bearing before removal&heated the gear(doesn't need to be super hot)I did not cool the bearing but you could.I used my vice to press in the new bearing&verified proper depth.I have about 20 adapters but used the old bearing as an adapter to get the bearing started as all of the adapters just werent quite the right size,just make sure it starts in straight should be quite easy..i did not use loctite as they didn't from factory

 

[02ViperMody44]

The bearings in the chain case?

Yes, the gears in the chain case. The lower gear has a roller style bearing in it, that the axle goes through. Was wondering if I am supposed to just press it in.

 

[Brotherdan]

I

I just did this on my rx1.it was much easier than the bearings in the chaincase halves!I measured the depth of the old bearing before removal&heated the gear(doesn't need to be super hot)I did not cool the bearing but you could.I used my vice to press in the new bearing&verified proper depth.I have about 20 adapters but used the old bearing as an adapter to get the bearing started as all of the adapters just werent quite the right size,just make sure it starts in straight should be quite easy..i did not use picture as they didn't from factory

Sorry should have said didn't use loctite!

 

[Winderallday!]

Yes, the gears in the chain case. The lower gear has a roller style bearing in it, that the axle goes through. Was wondering if I am supposed to just press it in.

Typically the needle (roller) style bearings are sized to be a press fit, although not an interference fit where you would need tons of pressure to install. In my experience while a toolmaker, I used a mild steel pin turned up on the lathe to push in these bearings in a press when possible. The one end was turned down to the nominal bearing ID and to the full length of the bearing so it could not collapse the housing or dislodge the needles. The turned shoulder on the pin that presses the bearing in was sized to contact the outer race of the needle bearing.
Most needle bearing outer housings have a rounded end and a more squared off end that typically has the bearing number etched or stamped. The squared off end is the end you want to push on when installing, the rounded end is meant to function as a slight lead in. Important to start the installation with bearing as square to the gear as possible to avoid damaging the bearing OD.
And no loctite, most needle bearings have a relief hole drilled in the outer housing and you don't want loctite getting inside on the needles.
Cheers

 

[02ViperMody44]

OK, thanks for all the information. Will be sending her home!

 

[Brotherdan]

Sorry new to posting still trying to figure it all out.you won't see any numbers on the bearing as their aren't any.i looked at my old one&both ends sure seem to be the same.if you don't have a machine shop or aren't able to make the special driver that apexallday mentioned you can use the splined collar that this bearing runs on as your special driver.this bearing is a fully caged bearing so it's pretty stout.if you have a press you can use that but most home shops dont.i do but used my vice as it doesn't press in that hard.i have removable alum jaws on my vice which help to protect the gear. I'm sure you will get it no problem

 

[Fleecer]

Sorry new to posting still trying to figure it all out.you won't see any numbers on the bearing as their aren't any.i looked at my old one&both ends sure seem to be the same.if you don't have a machine shop or aren't able to make the special driver that apexallday mentioned you can use the splined collar that this bearing runs on as your special driver.this bearing is a fully caged bearing so it's pretty stout.if you have a press you can use that but most home shops dont.i do but used my vice as it doesn't press in that hard.i have removable alum jaws on my vice which help to protect the gear. I'm sure you will get it no problem

I've pressed dozens of these using a bushing driver purchased from Harbor Freight and a hammer. Just pound it out flush......3-4 hits and it's out.

 

[Brotherdan]

I've pressedan dozens of these using a Harbor Freight bushing driver set and a hammer. No need to get anal, just pound it out flush. It's not that tight, 3-4 hits and it's out.

????

 

[Fleecer]

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Sorry....just edited.

 

[02ViperMody44]

All set with this. Used my hydraulic press and went in smooth. Thanks