Changing Oil On a 2005 RS Vector

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Hi Everyone. What is the correct procedure for doing this? I took the oil filter off but cannot locate the drain plug on the bottom of the motor. Belly pan plate has been removed. I syphoned oil out of the sump tank but is there a drain plug on the bottom of the tank that? Also how much oil is poured in the motor and how much in the tank? Correct way of checking on dipstick? Do I have to run it after as I already fogged it?
 
Drain plug on lower front edge of engine, 5 mm allen key type bolt with copper washer. Drain plug bottom of oil tank, 12 mm? Take side panel off. I generally pour 2 litres of oil into the oil tank, then run sled for a couple of minutes to circulate the oil. Then pour another litre of oil into the oil tank. Oil change done. Check oil level without screwing the dipstick in. No need to pour any oil directly into the engine. Since you have the side panel off, don't forget to drain the chaincase oil. Plug at bottom of chaincase but at lower inside edge of the tunnel. Hex head bolt, 12 mm?
 
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Right near the oil filter there are 3 bolts. There is a triangle icon near the bolt to remove to drain the engine oil. Tharsher already said it's the one with the copper washer.

Make sure you got the old oil filter gasket off otherwise the new filter will leak.

Another tip is to remove the two bolts holding on the 90 degree fitting to the bottom of the tank. Attached to that fitting is a screen which should be checked for any junk on it. There's a rubber o-ring so no worries about a gasket. Just make sure it goes back on properly.
 
I took the filter off with the oring and installed a new one that had a new oring. What do you mean by a filter gasket? Do you mean the oring that comes with the new filter?
 
Yes... that was he met.
There are few stories out there on which the old oring stuck on the base then new one on top caused major oil leak then desaster.
 
There aren't many people on here fogging their 4 strokes, I don't believe that it is necessary or even helpful but I'm also not that familiar with it so maybe others can chime in.
 
Have never fogged any of my 4-stroke engines without any issues. However, best to start and run the carbed engines like my 06 Vector at least once a month, or becomes difficult to start. Also this prevents the cabs from gumming up, which is the main issue if you leave it sit all of the off season.
 
There are websites that show were you can get non ethanol gas near you. I drain the gas and add the NE gas to the tank and run it. It keeps for years. We are paying $4.00 per Gal. here but it's worth it to store over the seasons.
 
I have fogged my 4 stokes but my mechanic doesn't believe it necessary so this year I didn't. I have always been told to not the engines in the off season. By doing so you are just introducing more condensation to internal parts as they cool. The evaporating gas in the carb is a pain in butt.
 
I have fogged my 4 stokes but my mechanic doesn't believe it necessary so this year I didn't. I have always been told to not the engines in the off season. By doing so you are just introducing more condensation to internal parts as they cool. The evaporating gas in the carb is a pain in butt.
Good points. But I am one that starts them often during the off season. I feel the coolers and make sure the system gets hot. Then shut down. It keeps everything from rusting or glazing over. Not to mention stale gas if you don't use the non ethanol type. My Attak had 10000 miles on it and ran like new when I sold it. Sometimes it the worst thing you can do is to let it sit. Getting the engine,exhaust and cooling system hot is the key if your doing this.
 
I start my Vector every month and run it for about 15 minutes. I have owned this sled for ten years and bought it new. I have never had to clean the carbs, just have them synced every 3 years or. This sled will start flawlessly well below 0 degrees and I can shut the choke off immediately after starting and it will idle smoothly at 1400 rpm's without a hitch at well below 0 degrees. Not starting these engines once a month etc. will lead to having to clean the carbs every year and even then they will often run poorly and you will need to do it again in the same season.
 
I start my Vector every month and run it for about 15 minutes. I have owned this sled for ten years and bought it new. I have never had to clean the carbs, just have them synced every 3 years or. This sled will start flawlessly well below 0 degrees and I can shut the choke off immediately after starting and it will idle smoothly at 1400 rpm's without a hitch at well below 0 degrees. Not starting these engines once a month etc. will lead to having to clean the carbs every year and even then they will often run poorly and you will need to do it again in the same season.

I have fuel injection so it isn't subject to carb issues. I'd recommend tracking down non ethanol stations in your area as this will insure good results. This gas can store for years ok
Try here. http://pure-gas.org/
 
I just bought a 2010 Vector GT with Fuel Injection so happy about that. I honestly have never seen non ethanol gas in Massachusetts. The list for Mass is very old dated I bet most of those places do have it any more. I stabilize it with Startron and then before the season syphon it out and pour into my truck.
 
I just bought a 2010 Vector GT with Fuel Injection so happy about that. I honestly have never seen non ethanol gas in Massachusetts. The list for Mass is very old dated I bet most of those places do have it any more. I stabilize it with Startron and then before the season syphon it out and pour into my truck.

You sig says Tuftonboro...there are places near you there. One on Rt 16 across from Profile Motor Sports.
 


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