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Changing slides

Goddo

Expert
Joined
Nov 4, 2006
Messages
415
Location
19 miles from Lewis Hills...Oh Ya.
I know this has been discussed before, but given that we are about to start the season, and there are probably people who should/need to do this, lets get an opinion going on the best method.

The last time I did it, I went through the track. I used a chisel to hammer the old ones off and a block to tap the new ones on. I did okay using this method, but the right side was very difficult to get off, while the left side was a little harder to go on (the track moved right at the end and peeled the end off.

I also tried peeling the slides off using the reverse method and had mixed results. While it did peel some of the slide off, it simply cracked the rest making for more work when removing.

So my question is, how do you change your slides.

1. Remove skid
2. Manual peel - through track hole
3. Reverse peel method

I installed a marginal wheel kit late last season, but with hard snow conditions my new sliders are already 50% worn. Bottom line, I know I'll be installing a new set some time this season.

Also, does anyone really notice a wear difference in the wide slides vs the hi-performance slides. They are only $2 or $3 difference at the dealer, but is one really better than the other.
 

I pulled my skid out both times I had to change mine. I plan on adding some more wheels next year. marginals up front at the bend and another set on the back half of the skid.

both sets of sliders wore at completely different locations.

1st set was near the bend, 2nd set was near the rear.

I did pull up front limiter straps 2 holes - so I'm assuming that's what relieved some of the weight off the front of the skid - and moved the wear to the rear of the sled.

each set lasted approx. 2500 kms.
 
Air chisel- silicone spray lube removal method similar to the screwdriver hammer just hella faster...

Standard oem slides and decent snow is key I've gone as little as 80 mi and as far as 2500mi and the same machine with no adjustments just different conditions...
 
I pulled mine off through the track window using quite a bit of WD-40. I actually got it through against a track clip and turned the track to peel it off!
 
If you haven't had the skid out already I would say pull it. It's probably time to inspect everything anyway. Your bushings and bearings are easier to check with it out. I did the through the track window method once, since I didn't think I had time to remove/replace skid. I would save that for trail side or trailer replacement if needed.
 
I DID MY THE OTHER day. i used the screwdriver/hammer/ wd-40 method and it sucked. i pulled them through the track window and it sucked balls getting them back in. i am going to pay the dealer 40 bucks to put them on the next time.
i bought the wide slides. they say when you start riding with them to heat them up fast then pull in a snow bank or water hole to let them cool, then repeat a couple of times. not sure if it works, or we will just look stupid doing it ;-)
 
I go through the track window. Once I have an inch or two of slider off the rail I drill a hole through the slider, put a small rope through it and pull it off.

I try and make sure the rails are clean and well lubed before putting the new sliders on.
 
As KINS stated...I found that it makes it a lot easier to remove the old slides by screwing in a 2"-3" screw and then pulling out the slider with vise-grips on the screw that I put in the old slider.

With just over 1,100 miles on my Nytro I have been through 3 sets of slides! The slides all have worn out near the rear of the skid. Besides only riding in powder what can be done to extend the life of the slides? Does anybody else have problems with the Nytro wearing out the slides so fast?
 
I HATED changing them on my Rev, i'm gonna really hate changing these SOB's if its a hassle. i HAD to rip the skid out on the Rev. if you lube them, they'll catch dirt too, so its a win/lose situation. I still lube them up tho~~~
 
After reading this topic today I decided that I was going to pull my skid tonight. I could check all the idlers, and it would make installing my re-valved shock much easier.

I don't know who put together my sled, but I'm guessing he's a direct relation to the incredible hulk. It took every ounce of strength I had to get the shocks bolts out (even an impact gun on the lower one) and when I tried to remove the skid, the first bolt I encountered would not budge. I broke out the impact gun again and was unable to get that bolt to turn. The torque even began to damage the head of the bolt. I don't have the patience to apply heat so I'll bolt the shock back in with the skid in, and next time I need slides, I'll bring it to the shop and have them pull the skid and check it over.
 
pull the skid and check everything. Pulling the skid is simple once you've done it a couple times. I found a backed out bolt in back of a idler wheel. I have talked to other people on this site that had the same bolt back out and if it does its real bad!
 
Changing slides should be about a 15 minute job for both sides.
Use a flat screwdriver to peel the back off through a window, with the sled laying on it's side, turn the large wheel so the track turns backwards, and voila', the last few inches, you can just grab it and rip it out. A few squirts of WD, using a piece of old slide material, tap the new one in. I did my Nytro's slides today, and didn't even loosen the track, and it took 15 minutes. You'll have to coax it around the bend when it catches the track window, but one pull away from the slider and it goes right on..
 
nate007 said:
Changing slides should be about a 15 minute job for both sides.
Use a flat screwdriver to peel the back off through a window, with the sled laying on it's side, turn the large wheel so the track turns backwards, and voila', the last few inches, you can just grab it and rip it out. A few squirts of WD, using a piece of old slide material, tap the new one in. I did my Nytro's slides today, and didn't even loosen the track, and it took 15 minutes. You'll have to coax it around the bend when it catches the track window, but one pull away from the slider and it goes right on..

So you actually start peeling at the back and then pull through the track window once you have a few inches off?

Last time I did it through the window, I started at the front and tried to move the slides back to and through the window. They would barely move and I ended up using a chisel on the sides to help them along. I didn't damage my rails, but I was worried at times.

Now I think I understand the peel and reverse idea a little better.

My skid will stay in for now...Unless the shock proves to be very hard to bolt back in. My slides should be good for 2-5 hundred more miles.
 
Yeah, start at the back. I used a big slotted screwdriver for getting it to start coming off the rail, and as it comes off, move the end through the window (it will be tight), and as you move the track backwards it will peel it right off.
I then used a short piece (8") of old hyfax to protect the end of the new one while using a plastic mallet to drive the new one on.
You shouldn't have to touch anything else with the sled, unless you think you have other maintainence issues.
If you carried the screwdrivers in your sled, you could almost do this trailside. We did have to do that on an F7 about 10 miles from town last year. He got a piece of something in the suspension, and it ripped the hyfax partially off. After you do it once, you'll see how simple it can be.
Good Luck!!
 
If you only change your slides once a year, you should pull the skid just to inspect everything. Mine made it 2200 miles last year. They are worn now, but will be pulling the skid soon to due the fall inspection.
 


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