Eagle1
Expert
when I picked up my '09, dealer said track windows are bigger this year.
so should be easier to get them through. lets hope this helps extend slider life also!
so should be easier to get them through. lets hope this helps extend slider life also!
Goddo
Expert
Yeah...I hope so too.
I was on the garage floor bolting in my re-valved shock when I noticed the slides on the throttle side are pretty much toast. I'm surprised because it's right where the marginal snow kit is installed.
These slides have less than 300 miles on them. Disappointing to say the least. I drove 2600 miles on my Firecat and never even looked at the slides.
Oh well, sled is going to the dealer tomorrow for new slides and a pre-season check (skid, ball joints, etc).
If there is one thing that I can say really bugs me about the sled more than handwarmers, wet left foot, twitchy handling (which I never really experienced), its slide wear.
I guess I better get good at changing them, because I'll be doing it a lot.
I was on the garage floor bolting in my re-valved shock when I noticed the slides on the throttle side are pretty much toast. I'm surprised because it's right where the marginal snow kit is installed.
These slides have less than 300 miles on them. Disappointing to say the least. I drove 2600 miles on my Firecat and never even looked at the slides.
Oh well, sled is going to the dealer tomorrow for new slides and a pre-season check (skid, ball joints, etc).
If there is one thing that I can say really bugs me about the sled more than handwarmers, wet left foot, twitchy handling (which I never really experienced), its slide wear.
I guess I better get good at changing them, because I'll be doing it a lot.
Muffin
VIP Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2006
- Messages
- 283
- Age
- 51
- Location
- Marathon, WI
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 SR Viper RTX SE
I have always pulled mine thru a track window using my home made slide hammer.
You will need a weight for the slide, a 2' to 3' piece of 1/2-13 threaded rod, a couple of nuts, and acorn nut and a dry wall screw.
Take the pair of nuts and put them on one end of the treaded rod and jam them together. The weight will be hammering against them to pull the slide.
Take the acorn nut and drill a hole thru the tip so the drywall screw can stick thru.
Screw the drywall screw/nut assembly to the slide, attach the other end of your slide hammer (threaded rod) and apply some lube to the track window and slide hammer the hyfax off.
It works every time, it's easy, costs very little, no messed up rails or busted nuckles. I will try and post pics tommorrow evening if anyone is interested.
You will need a weight for the slide, a 2' to 3' piece of 1/2-13 threaded rod, a couple of nuts, and acorn nut and a dry wall screw.
Take the pair of nuts and put them on one end of the treaded rod and jam them together. The weight will be hammering against them to pull the slide.
Take the acorn nut and drill a hole thru the tip so the drywall screw can stick thru.
Screw the drywall screw/nut assembly to the slide, attach the other end of your slide hammer (threaded rod) and apply some lube to the track window and slide hammer the hyfax off.
It works every time, it's easy, costs very little, no messed up rails or busted nuckles. I will try and post pics tommorrow evening if anyone is interested.
thephast1
Extreme
After much messing around with the slides on my 06 apex here's what worked for me on my first install:
1) Lube everything up really good with WD-40
2) Remove screw in front of hyfax.
3) Grab the side of the hyfax with a vise grip a foot in front of the rear idler wheels. Really get a hold of just the hyfax, not the aluminum rail. Then bend the hyfax down as much as possible.
4) Hammer the crap out of that vise grip to slide the the hyfax about 3-4 inches back.
5) Rotate the track until you can get at the hyfax in the rear of the sled through a track window, then grease up the window with more WD-40.
6) Grab hold of the hyfax with a vise grip and twist it to get in through the window.
7) I put my feet against the back of the track and pulled the hyfax straight back and out, this works good to get some leverage on the suckers.
8) Grease up the new hyfax and finagle it back in and on the rail. Once you get it started then continue to push it as much as possible. I used a 3/8 extender and a hammer to go the last couple of inches and align the hole up front for the screw.
I will post pictures on my next removal, it should go much quicker the second time.
1) Lube everything up really good with WD-40
2) Remove screw in front of hyfax.
3) Grab the side of the hyfax with a vise grip a foot in front of the rear idler wheels. Really get a hold of just the hyfax, not the aluminum rail. Then bend the hyfax down as much as possible.
4) Hammer the crap out of that vise grip to slide the the hyfax about 3-4 inches back.
5) Rotate the track until you can get at the hyfax in the rear of the sled through a track window, then grease up the window with more WD-40.
6) Grab hold of the hyfax with a vise grip and twist it to get in through the window.
7) I put my feet against the back of the track and pulled the hyfax straight back and out, this works good to get some leverage on the suckers.
8) Grease up the new hyfax and finagle it back in and on the rail. Once you get it started then continue to push it as much as possible. I used a 3/8 extender and a hammer to go the last couple of inches and align the hole up front for the screw.
I will post pictures on my next removal, it should go much quicker the second time.
Daranello
Suspended
Guys.....wait if ya can't fit an 11mil wrench on the slide your have lots of time...
I wore to the wear line in 300mi.....2000miles latter in some of the worst conditions they haven't moved....
Have ya noticed, no one here on TY with a Nytro has burnt down to the rails....just wait you'll thanks me latter
I wore to the wear line in 300mi.....2000miles latter in some of the worst conditions they haven't moved....
Have ya noticed, no one here on TY with a Nytro has burnt down to the rails....just wait you'll thanks me latter
BoonDock Saint
Extreme
with hi performance slides, wore down to wear line within 100 miles, still looks the same after 2000 plus miles, no worries, and where i live is mostly hard compact trails
grizztracks
Tech Advisor
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
- Messages
- 3,110
- Age
- 60
- Location
- Scio, NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- FX Nytro RTX, RS Vector, SR Viper RTX SE
I believe the slider wear slows significantly at the wear line because the aluminum rail dissipates the heat better. Heat is what causes wear so if the temperature of the slider is cooler near the rail it stands to reason you will see less wear. I know some will disagree and say the wheels slow the wear but due to uneven terrain the wheels only relieve pressure on the rail in the wheel locations. This was evident in the last set of sliders I replace.
Don't panic when they reach the wear line. I ran my first set over 3,000 miles and other than the uneven wear due to the wheels they still had a few miles left in them. Come time to replace the sliders pull the skid and due a complete inspection. The skid is not hat difficult to pull, the slides are much easier to replace and it's the best way to check the skid for wear.
Don't panic when they reach the wear line. I ran my first set over 3,000 miles and other than the uneven wear due to the wheels they still had a few miles left in them. Come time to replace the sliders pull the skid and due a complete inspection. The skid is not hat difficult to pull, the slides are much easier to replace and it's the best way to check the skid for wear.
