Charging Issue

say what? is the last line a misprint? I had to remove sway bar mounts to get enough clearance, didn't notice anything difficult about the mount bolts
Not a misprint, if you look at my front end + rebuild thread mid way I replaced the starter using the "two bolt" method. Simply remove front engine mount bolts enough so they exit the frame but remain in the front engine mount casting (otherwise PITA to get to back side and reinsert). Don't touch anything else, don't loosen rear engine mounts, don't remove air box, steering, nothing else. I had my sled on blocks under skis and track so it was 6" off ground. Put a jack under s block of wood on front of engine and slowly jack up, engine will rotate on rear mount bolts and widen the gap underneath just enough to get your hands up and remove starter bolts and swap. My thread shows the articulation required to get the starter vertical and around the casting nubs and out without needing the airbox removed as some of the original posters required. As the technique evolved (more bad Nytro starters!) so did the minimizing of steps. There is enough flex on the carb / airbox rubbers and the exhaust flex coupling to do this. Yamaha claims remove front clip and engine! Nuts! Anyways in my thread one guy made an adjustment and lowered the sled onto a block, same effect, more elegant that the jacking up... I did not find clear pics of the process why I documented the crap out of every step I have made on my Nytro so others can simply follow (and improve) on what I did.
 
Not a misprint, if you look at my front end + rebuild thread mid way I replaced the starter using the "two bolt" method. Simply remove front engine mount bolts enough so they exit the frame but remain in the front engine mount casting (otherwise PITA to get to back side and reinsert). Don't touch anything else, don't loosen rear engine mounts, don't remove air box, steering, nothing else. I had my sled on blocks under skis and track so it was 6" off ground. Put a jack under s block of wood on front of engine and slowly jack up, engine will rotate on rear mount bolts and widen the gap underneath just enough to get your hands up and remove starter bolts and swap. My thread shows the articulation required to get the starter vertical and around the casting nubs and out without needing the airbox removed as some of the original posters required. As the technique evolved (more bad Nytro starters!) so did the minimizing of steps. There is enough flex on the carb / airbox rubbers and the exhaust flex coupling to do this. Yamaha claims remove front clip and engine! Nuts! Anyways in my thread one guy made an adjustment and lowered the sled onto a block, same effect, more elegant that the jacking up... I did not find clear pics of the process why I documented the crap out of every step I have made on my Nytro so others can simply follow (and improve) on what I did.
I did only remove front bolts and swing engine. I use a crane on a rolling beam and stand the sled straight up. had some helpers swing engine with pry bars. couldn't seem to get enough clearance without removing sway bar mounts. would like to see your post, can you post a link? not sure what you meant by motor mounts being difficult. I had no problem with that. the sway bar mounts are tough to get at. I also had the steering and airbox removed. needed donuts and valve shimming, so I had tank/seat etc off. exhaust unhooked. I did cheat on the cam removal. used bungees to hold chain tension.
 
say what? is the last line a misprint? I had to remove sway bar mounts to get enough clearance, didn't notice anything difficult about the mount bolts
I am not sure if this link paste will work https://ty4stroke.com/threads/2009-nytro-front-end-rebuild.149099/ but it is on the first page here, Frontend Rebuild + thread, page 10 I think. Here are some of the pics from that post, only removal was the two front engine mount bolts, nothing else. These are pics with notes from that thread.

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I once had a fellow bring a Nytro in with coolant leak. Someone had dropped one of the exhaust flange bolts and it wedged between the heat exchanger and starter. The flange on the bolt cut through the heat exchanger over time. Whoops!
 
so, did the starter come out gear up or down?
 
so, did the starter come out gear up or down?
Gear up. I had the new one handy so I could slide it up and over while I remembered how the other one came out... Tight but doable.
 
mine had 23000 miles when it started getting noisy. I have since day one always held the key on start until running and for some reason warm it always starts instant with the throttle cracked. I always have listened for the wind down, assuring the relay released. I think moisture gets in them, possibly aspirating from the engine itself. corrodes the bearings and ice would gladly remove a magnet. If used correctly and sparingly like reverse, I would let it go and do it when it makes noise.

I always hear it spin down and almost never need to crank excessively....I have also replaced the relays with the red solid state ones some hopefully that wont cause a failure. Glad to hear you had so many miles on yours.
 
I always hear it spin down and almost never need to crank excessively....I have also replaced the relays with the red solid state ones some hopefully that wont cause a failure. Glad to hear you had so many miles on yours.
Red relays are unrelated to starters.
 
I always hear it spin down and almost never need to crank excessively....I have also replaced the relays with the red solid state ones some hopefully that wont cause a failure. Glad to hear you had so many miles on yours.
well its 24000 now, bought a winder for last season, but got robbed of it by my wife. Need to get another winder, but until then I still run the nytro like it was stolen and she is right there behind me all day. I have always threatened to turbo the nytro, but a winder makes way more sense. It will forever be in my corral and sent on missions and in many ways can do things the winder can't. suspension heavily modified and it rides way softer than the winder, but with ill trail manners that takes a whole different riding style.
 
Well if anyone finds this thread in their searches I found my stator very burnt looking.

The motor ABSOLUTELY DOES NOT need to come out for this job. There are three bolts that are a little hard to access but I had the stator out in under an hour.
any good sources on how to check for my charing problems and also check the stator? rectifier? on a 2006 RS Venture?
 
that is very helpful--thank you. I assume the same for a snowmobile?
It is.
Three phase they call them.
Just unplug and check AC volts while idling. There really isn't a need to rev the machine up. If the stator is bad one or more of the three tests will have voltage not consistent with the other one or two.
 


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