• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Checking oil.

fiddlersgreen

Lifetime Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2009
Messages
538
Location
Newfoundland...The Rock
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
Viper xtx le
Just got my new xtx le from the dealer. Checking it over I noticed there's no chain case oil visible in the sight glass. Tip it on its side a bit and it becomes visible on the sight glass.
After this I figured I'd check the engine oil. I started it and ran it till the temp went up(4-5 mins) then shut it off and checked the oil. Oil was barely to the bottom of the add mark with the dip stick screwed in. There's no sight glass in the engine oil tank.
Wondering if this is the correct procedure.
 

Chain case oil should be about 1/2 way up the sight glass. Engine operating temperature is when the fan turns on. At least that's what my XF7000 manual says. Basically, be sure to check it hot. IMO, if the sled is level, and it has to be level, I'd add some chain case oil so we can at least see it without fiddling this way or the other. I'm learning too.
 
Just got my new xtx le from the dealer. Checking it over I noticed there's no chain case oil visible in the sight glass. Tip it on its side a bit and it becomes visible on the sight glass.
After this I figured I'd check the engine oil. I started it and ran it till the temp went up(4-5 mins) then shut it off and checked the oil. Oil was barely to the bottom of the add mark with the dip stick screwed in. There's no sight glass in the engine oil tank.
Wondering if this is the correct procedure.

You need to have a long talk with your dealer about why PDI's are done and why you were charge for one that doesn't seem to have been done.
 
When your checking engine with the dipstick you should not screw it in when checking the oil level, just drop in the stick. When you get that survey from yamaha on your new sled purchase I would note all the oil levels are wrong. I would recommend working with dealers that have a pro rating if there is one in your area.
 
When your checking engine with the dipstick you should not screw it in when checking the oil level, just drop in the stick. When you get that survey from yamaha on your new sled purchase I would note all the oil levels are wrong. I would recommend working with dealers that have a pro rating if there is one in your area.
Can you hear the fan when it cuts in?
The temp gauge was 3/4 + up on the bar gauge when I checked it. Didn't want to let it go higher and never heard the fan.
If the oil is supposed to be checked with the dip stick not screwed in, there's not close to enough engine oil in the tank.
If they missed possibly two of the most vital parts of a pdi, I wonder what else was missed. I guess the PDI means nothing?
 
You will find normal operating temperature is about 70-75 Deg. and the fan cuts in at about 90 Deg. and yes you definitely hear the fan.
But before you get to topping up fluids, talk to your dealer, if they are not willing to make this right remember them when you get your satisfaction survey from Yamaha.

If you do end up doing this yourself I'm not sure what you would do for engine oil. Breakin oil is not likely to be semi or synthetic oil.
Chain case oil goes in through the reverse actuator, when you reassemble preload the actuator a little, (counter clock wise) and cycle it three times, in and out of reverse to make sure everything is in place.
 
Synthetic oil is not used for break in. Won't allow the rings to set
 
The chain case oil should be halfway up the window regardless if its warm or not. Engine oil should be checked after the sled is at operating temperature (160-170 degrees F), shut it down, then remove the dip stick and SCREW IT BACK IN, I know this isn't the normal for a dipstick but it is in our tech update manual and what we were told at the service school. Sleds are shipped with 0-40 Yamalube.
 
Not to many cars on the road that rev around 9 grand either. Not trying to start anything maybe it's just the old school method but I've always broken in with conventional
 
Not to many cars on the road that rev around 9 grand either. Not trying to start anything maybe it's just the old school method but I've always broken in with conventional
not sure what rpm's have to do with rings seating?
 
Higher rpm bursts build pressure to seat the rings properly. I think there's a right up floating around on here. But things change I could be wrong that's just the way I've been doing it. Think it's motoman that talks about it
 
yes brief high rpms and heat cycles are both factors in proper ring seating,synthetic oil makes this a slightly longer process because of the greater lubrication properties that it has,but really running a motor thru full rpm range and avoiding high load scenarios is the best way IMO
 


Back
Top