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Checking oil.

When your checking engine with the dipstick you should not screw it in when checking the oil level, just drop in the stick. When you get that survey from yamaha on your new sled purchase I would note all the oil levels are wrong. I would recommend working with dealers that have a pro rating if there is one in your area.

My bad on the dipstick, your suppose to screw it in when checking as DeranttelSS said. I got confessed if it was in or out, i'm the dipstick now...lol

I wish that AC/yamaha would have just moved up the sight glass for the new oil tank setup.
 

With regards to the engine oil, maybe I never let it heat up enough. I'll try it again tomorrow and make sure the fan cuts in then check with the dipstick screwed in.
As for the the chain case, there's definatly not enough in it.
I read somewhere that the chain case oil was set from the factory and not a PDI issue. Even so, I think it still should be checked and addressed if need be.
I'll wait to hear from the dealer to see what's up.
 
With regards to the engine oil, maybe I never let it heat up enough. I'll try it again tomorrow and make sure the fan cuts in then check with the dipstick screwed in.
As for the the chain case, there's definatly not enough in it.
I read somewhere that the chain case oil was set from the factory and not a PDI issue. Even so, I think it still should be checked and addressed if need be.
I'll wait to hear from the dealer to see what's up.
Both are dealer prep checks so someone missed it,my fan didn't kick on til about 195
 
Factory oil came out of my Vipers right away and conventional oil went in as I wanted to know what I have. Most synthetic oils are too slick and retard break in, alot of the time preventing total break in of the rings and cylinders. I pulled apart a 2006 Polaris 600 a couple weeks ago that had 6k miles on it and still showed cross hatch on the cylinders, of course it also had low compression as it never totally broke in. Put new rings in it and now it runs fine.

Both of our Vipers will have conventional oil until at least 1k miles.
 
Factory oil came out of my Vipers right away and conventional oil went in as I wanted to know what I have. Most synthetic oils are too slick and retard break in, alot of the time preventing total break in of the rings and cylinders. I pulled apart a 2006 Polaris 600 a couple weeks ago that had 6k miles on it and still showed cross hatch on the cylinders, of course it also had low compression as it never totally broke in. Put new rings in it and now it runs fine.

Both of our Vipers will have conventional oil until at least 1k miles.
the polaris had low compression because the rings were shot,you replaced them and now it runs fine,obviously the rings were worn out then,the cross hatch on Nicasil cylinders is always still there,I've replaced a lot of Pistons and rings in snowmobiles,outboards,watercraft you name it,if it has steel sleeves those are always worn smooth,Nicasil is much harder and rarely ever shows signs of wear
 
the polaris had low compression because the rings were shot,you replaced them and now it runs fine,obviously the rings were worn out then,the cross hatch on Nicasil cylinders is always still there,I've replaced a lot of Pistons and rings in snowmobiles,outboards,watercraft you name it,if it has steel sleeves those are always worn smooth,Nicasil is much harder and rarely ever shows signs of wear

No the rings were not shot, the end gap was even good. Wore out rings either loose there tension or wear out and show a large gap, these were neither. The break in process is supposed to grind down the rings somewhat to form fit the cylinder, if it doesn't you have compression slip by. Surprised you have never seen a machine that ran synthetic at break in and never wore in completely.
 
If Yamaha is using 0-40 full synthetic what possible reason could there be them wanting it changed so quickly, 800 K/500 M.
Synthetic oil would not have lost it's viscosity or it's lubricisity in that short amount of time/miles, the filter would most certainly not be plugged so why would you change oil?
 
My oil change kit from Yamaha is Semi-Synthetic not full synthetic. I have seen motors that would not seat the rings using full synthetic. But they had a bad ring design. Wiseco to be frank. I trust whatever was in my sled from factory did the job just fine. Have never used oil unless tipped over.
 
No the rings were not shot, the end gap was even good. Wore out rings either loose there tension or wear out and show a large gap, these were neither. The break in process is supposed to grind down the rings somewhat to form fit the cylinder, if it doesn't you have compression slip by. Surprised you have never seen a machine that ran synthetic at break in and never wore in completely.
Ok so we're they carboned up and sticking in the ring groove?thats a common problem on outboards,something was up there if all you did was replace rings Bill,I've run synthetic oil in all my cars,snowmobiles,dirt bikes you name it and I've never seen an issue with seating rings ever,it takes longer no doubt about it,but pretty much every engine manufacturer today fills their engines from day one with synthetic oil,yamaha makes over a 100,000 plus engines a year I would use what they recommend I'm sure they've done a little more R&D than any of us have
 
My oil change kit from Yamaha is Semi-Synthetic not full synthetic. I have seen motors that would not seat the rings using full synthetic. But they had a bad ring design. Wiseco to be frank. I trust whatever was in my sled from factory did the job just fine. Have never used oil unless tipped over.
Mine came with 0w-40 full synthetic,why bother if it's not better?
 
Are you sure? Kit was mailed to my house right from Yamaha. It's in there now. I have no idea what oil was in the engine originally.
 
Are you sure? Kit was mailed to my house right from Yamaha. It's in there now. I have no idea what oil was in the engine originally.
Yes it's new this year,last year it was the semi synthetic that you have,so I'm sure your fine sticking with it,I'm sure it also made production easier too to use 1 oil for all 4- strokes,cat only has c-tec 4 oil in 0w-40 synthetic now
 
I have a 2015 sr viper ltd DX in the owner manual on page 4 it recommends 0w30 semi so witch is it semi or full.
 


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