Checking oil.

[stingray719]

Ok so we're they carboned up and sticking in the ring groove?thats a common problem on outboards,something was up there if all you did was replace rings Bill,I've run synthetic oil in all my cars,snowmobiles,dirt bikes you name it and I've never seen an issue with seating rings ever,it takes longer no doubt about it,but pretty much every engine manufacturer today fills their engines from day one with synthetic oil,yamaha makes over a 100,000 plus engines a year I would use what they recommend I'm sure they've done a little more R&D than any of us have

See your quote, longer yes and in some instances it does not seat. Remember the 2003 RX1? Guys that hammered them breaking in were ok, guys that didn't the rings did not seat. Yes they changed rings in 2004 but I think you get my point. Can you break in with full synthetic....yes. Will I take longer to break mine in and take a chance of rings not seating completely.....no.

But this is one of those discussions that can go forever, so I will respect your methods and not call them wrong, it's just not the way I do it.

 

[stingray719]

One other thought. On the race engines I build after the initial hone, I put a piece of 1200 grit sand paper around the hone and hone that way for a bit. I only do this with very good quality rings and a quality bore, and this gives me a VERY quick break in. Big chance on not totally breaking in but if you have to race on your engine right away for me this is the only way. Warm engine hammer hard a couple times and then run it easy up and down the rpms for about 10 minutes.....take to the track. 3 Main event wins on first race out on new engines done this way.

What's my point? Engine manufactures assume several things on break in, and hone the engine to match. In the example above I did not build in much friction as not much part matching is needed. On mass produced parts that are not as rigidly monitored more friction is built into the honing process to assure total break in. Any friction reducing agent put in the oil while breaking in retards or in some cases prevents total ring break in. I care to err on the side of caution and not run any synthetic or "green" oil that may contain friction reducers. But, I am not saying any other process is wrong just not the way I have learned.

 

[mtotguy]

I have a 2015 sr viper ltd DX in the owner manual on page 4 it recommends 0w30 semi so witch is it semi or full.

I have a Nytro with 9000 miles on it. It runs great and doesn't burn a drop of oil. I have always used Mobil 1 0W40

 

[Nytro40th]

Amsoil has worked well for me in my nytro and eventually will be running in my viper.

 

[Kerrdog569]

See your quote, longer yes and in some instances it does not seat. Remember the 2003 RX1? Guys that hammered them breaking in were ok, guys that didn't the rings did not seat. Yes they changed rings in 2004 but I think you get my point. Can you break in with full synthetic....yes. Will I take longer to break mine in and take a chance of rings not seating completely.....no.

But this is one of those discussions that can go forever, so I will respect your methods and not call them wrong, it's just not the way I do it.

Agreed

 

[cannondale27]

I believe if you have good rings and bore you will have good breakin as long as the motor doesn't overheat while doing it. I run Amsoil synthetic in all my stuff because of its high Zinc content. This can save your cams if they are subpar. The cams are under very high stress. Our motors which use Plain bearings the Rod bearings would probably be first to go under oil failure with mains,wristpins,cams and lastly the Pistons. Failing in that order.