Cleaning the clutch

[snowdawg]

How you do this? Any spray cleaner? Runs strong but sled is losing rpm only runs up to 9500 then drops to 9200. I figure I'd start here I put a new belt still 9200. My other rx run at 10,300 as it runs away. Any ideas? Thanks

 

[towerrigger]

I use simple green to clean up my clutches. Also scrub the faces of the clutch with a scotch brite pad. I notice this helps.

 

[thinksnow]

Some people use carb cleaner or brake cleaner. You can also take it off and when your wife is out shopping, slip it into the dish washer.LOL Take it out before the drying cycle and blow it off with an air compressor. Finish it off by scrubbing the sheaves with a scotchbrite pad. Scrub all your belts with the scotchbrite pad and some simple green. This really seems to help. I have 1875 miles on the stock belt and going to try another year.LOL

 

[1CrazySledder]

snowdawg,
Please take moment to update your profile with your location as this is a site requirement and will help you when posting in the classifieds.

Thanks,

-1CS

 

[SLEDSTART]

I do a complete disassembly of both clutches every 1500 miles or so. Seems to really keep them running good. I use a parts washer to clean them and then compressed air to dry.
It's not hard to do.

Service manual really helps too! If your half way mechanically inclined you will be able to do it. If you do update that profile and post a location...maybe a TY neighbor can give you a hand on your first go around. I will if your close.

 

[race24x]

Call me crazy but I didnt think you where supposed to use anything but soap and water to clean the clutch faces the little crevises etc will hold any cleaning solution you use and get it on your belt. Personally I use air to clean out inside of clutches and then a non directional finish (dont start the engine and hold a scotch brite on your clutch) its more of a round and round motion all over the clutch face we used to do it on rotors also for cars.

 

[SLEDSTART]

Never had a problem with Mineral Spirits (parts cleaner solvent)
I just dry all the little holes with a towel and let them sit overnight. Any film evaporates and then I do the scotch brite on the sheaves and then there ready to go.

 

[towerrigger]

There was an article in one of the sled mags talking about using chemicals on the clutches. Some chemicals will get into the small cracks, the belt dust that's already in there will soak it up and later come out when the clutch is heated up, thus getting onto the belt.

 

[Len Todd]

Brake Clean and Simple Green or 409. Stay away from dish detergent. Detergent leaves a film. If you don't believe the film thingie, try washing off your glasses with the detergent and in a day or so you will see it.

But, Snowdawg has RPMs being lost here. Maybe it is time to look at bushings, and springs. Sometimes the secondary spring is getting weak and thus the RPMs tend to go down. Secondary Sliders and bushing can be a problem also. Or, the primary spring could be going bad. Has the engagement RPM changed (e.g. gone down?) Then there is track alignment and tension. Bearings all O.K. in the track suspension? All of this is related.

I have been messing with the stock weights. You can drill out the tip rivets and she will rev 10,200-10,400 super quick But, whatever you change it is all related. You will lose some top end.

Last week, I put in Allen's Stage II. I had been playing with clutch weight and springs for several weeks. While you can make simple mods to the Stock weight, it is not the type of mod you need to get best performance. One may even be better off not changing the weight of the stock weights, unless you are looking at making several other changes. By the way, the Stage II is a bolt-on that rips! But, with the Stage I (the adjustable weights alone) your stock stuff can be brought in fairly close.