gregdec1
Extreme
I desperately need help. I never noticed it to much before but now that I have all the foam removed, its bad. I did the quick fix of putting washers on the bolts to help with free play and that does not seem to make any difference. What else can I do to help with the annoying rattle of the clutches. I am a virgin to clutching so any help is much appreciated.
canoehead
TY 4 Stroke God
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Some guys say to change the buttons on the spider.
judger101
Expert
its normal, dont worry about it
canoehead
TY 4 Stroke God
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Another option!!judger101 said:
SteelerJim
Expert
Aftermarket clutch or learn to live with it. I personally hum a lot to quiet it down.
fxnytro1050
Expert
ou out washers on bolts?? what bolts
canoehead
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Put nylon washers under the nut side of the roller bolt.fxnytro1050 said:
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
Put a polaris clutch on....problem fix
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I have tried everything and my rattle still exists...
-I put o-rings/nylon washers on roller bolts.
-I replaced all the buttons and the o-rings (separating the rear clutch sheve required)
*****Turns out the clutch stub shaft is splined to the crank. Item 15 below. This spline between the stub shaft and the crankshaft is too loose and rattles at idle on some sleds.
-No rattles will be heard if the clutch is removed from the shaft (making people think it is the clutch that is causing the rattling.)
-HOWEVER this is not true. It doesn't rattle with the clutch off because there is no counter weight applied to the stub shaft.
-I have 100% confirmed this because I bolted on a solid steel weight to the end of the crank (to act like a flywheel) and the rattle was there once fired up and idling.
-This was my procedure to determine 100% it was my splines.
I want to disassemble the stub shaft and potentially fill the splines with a mild loctite to fill the gap causing the rattle.
However if you look at the pic, one of the bearings is a "wet" bearing, meaning if I remove it (even if its possible without loosening the main journals) oil would get everywhere and Im not getting into that.
***EDIT...I am assuming it is a wet bearing. If anyone who has disassembled these engines can you please confirm??? Maybe the PTO stub shaft can be removed without any problems?? ****
I am going to try another option this winter and see if it helps...If it does I may sell a solution, because I know everyone would love it.
And that's it!
-I put o-rings/nylon washers on roller bolts.
-I replaced all the buttons and the o-rings (separating the rear clutch sheve required)
*****Turns out the clutch stub shaft is splined to the crank. Item 15 below. This spline between the stub shaft and the crankshaft is too loose and rattles at idle on some sleds.
-No rattles will be heard if the clutch is removed from the shaft (making people think it is the clutch that is causing the rattling.)
-HOWEVER this is not true. It doesn't rattle with the clutch off because there is no counter weight applied to the stub shaft.
-I have 100% confirmed this because I bolted on a solid steel weight to the end of the crank (to act like a flywheel) and the rattle was there once fired up and idling.
-This was my procedure to determine 100% it was my splines.
I want to disassemble the stub shaft and potentially fill the splines with a mild loctite to fill the gap causing the rattle.
However if you look at the pic, one of the bearings is a "wet" bearing, meaning if I remove it (even if its possible without loosening the main journals) oil would get everywhere and Im not getting into that.
***EDIT...I am assuming it is a wet bearing. If anyone who has disassembled these engines can you please confirm??? Maybe the PTO stub shaft can be removed without any problems?? ****
I am going to try another option this winter and see if it helps...If it does I may sell a solution, because I know everyone would love it.
And that's it!
Lee Rivers
Extreme
I don't understand clutches very well,so I talked to a Yamaha racer about the noise..he said not too worry it's the way they are, but said they are very good stock clutches. I have 3900 miles and he said my clutch was in great shape so I'll take his word for it...let it snow..let it snow..let it snow!!!
judger101
Expert
They are very good clutches and the rattle wont hurt anything but your ears
revster
TY 4 Stroke God
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- 2009 Yamaha Nytro RTX SE
I know what you mean with the noise, my foam is out and I have side vents. I chased the rattle for a while, nylon washers solved it but then it returned. Now I just except it's what a Nytro sounds like. 
Mtnviper
Vendor
Beenba said:I have tried everything and my rattle still exists...
-I put o-rings/nylon washers on roller bolts.
-I replaced all the buttons and the o-rings (separating the rear clutch sheve required)
*****Turns out the clutch stub shaft is splined to the crank. Item 15 below. This spline between the stub shaft and the crankshaft is too loose and rattles at idle on some sleds.
-No rattles will be heard if the clutch is removed from the shaft (making people think it is the clutch that is causing the rattling.)
-HOWEVER this is not true. It doesn't rattle with the clutch off because there is no counter weight applied to the stub shaft.
-I have 100% confirmed this because I bolted on a solid steel weight to the end of the crank (to act like a flywheel) and the rattle was there once fired up and idling.
-This was my procedure to determine 100% it was my splines.
I want to disassemble the stub shaft and potentially fill the splines with a mild loctite to fill the gap causing the rattle.
However if you look at the pic, one of the bearings is a "wet" bearing, meaning if I remove it (even if its possible without loosening the main journals) oil would get everywhere and Im not getting into that.
***EDIT...I am assuming it is a wet bearing. If anyone who has disassembled these engines can you please confirm??? Maybe the PTO stub shaft can be removed without any problems?? ****
I am going to try another option this winter and see if it helps...If it does I may sell a solution, because I know everyone would love it.
And that's it!
beenba,
It's been awhile since I have seen a Nytro engine apart, but I believe that the PTO stub shaft has to be installed on the end of the crank before it is lowered into the block. Which would mean that in order to pull the PTO stub shaft out, the crankcase would have to be split apart and the crank removed from the block.
Bill
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
^Thanks for confirming, I have had a second member on here confirm also...it is not possible. Bummer.
X3 , cases must be split.
Here is a picture of Dimebags noise-maker.
The "wet" bearing isnt pictured here but you can see where it goes.
I changed these bearings on Dimebags engine.
I would do some research before putting Loctite on the spline, make sure that it will stay there and that it is OK for the shafts to be "glued" together. Somethings are ment to "float" but I cant see any reason for having the splines so "jiggly" .
Will be putting nylon washers on my roller bolts to remove some of the noise, will post back when done.
Here is a picture of Dimebags noise-maker.
The "wet" bearing isnt pictured here but you can see where it goes.
I changed these bearings on Dimebags engine.
I would do some research before putting Loctite on the spline, make sure that it will stay there and that it is OK for the shafts to be "glued" together. Somethings are ment to "float" but I cant see any reason for having the splines so "jiggly" .
Will be putting nylon washers on my roller bolts to remove some of the noise, will post back when done.
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