dontac790
Newbie
I'm both new to this site and to 4-stroke sleds. I bought an 03 RX-1 with 2k miles and absolutely love it. I read countless posts regarding clutching but it all seems like jibberish, so I'm in need of some advise. I want to do a clutch kit that would make the rx faster, achieve proper rpm's and work as a general trail sled also. My main goal is to outrun a slightly worked over F7 in 1000ft run, yet still be great on the trail.
I have a bender exhaust on the way and also would like to know if I should rejet when installing. I don't need technical explanations, just someone to say, "get this, this, and this and your sled will do this".
Thanks in advance. Great site, btw.
I have a bender exhaust on the way and also would like to know if I should rejet when installing. I don't need technical explanations, just someone to say, "get this, this, and this and your sled will do this".
Thanks in advance. Great site, btw.
Pm Turk with your questions he is our site clutching guru.
Nope; his expectations are too high for me.
RX1Jim
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
The bender exhaust does not require any jetting changes. You will not feel any difference with this exhaust on the sled although it will sound better.
For the best performance value for the $, go to the MODS section and take a look at the air box mod post by Mr. Sled Dog. This airbox mod is simple to do and will allow your enine to breathe better. This airbox mod is very similar to a mod offered by Ted Jannetty, a performance expert on this site. If you do not want to do this mod yourself, you can send your airbox to Ted and he will modify it for a very small fee. This airbox mod is better than the airfilter kit, ECP kit, since it retains the function of the airbox, minimizes the intake noise and is much less expensive. Acccording to Ted J., this air box mod delivers 2 more HP across the entire RPM range than the ECP kit as verified on the ECP dyno.
If you want to modify the clutching and do not want to tinker with it yourself, either convince Mr. Turk to give you a clutching recipe or by a clucth kit from Ullmer Racing. I bought a clutch kit from Allen Ullmer. He is a terrific person to deal with: honest, professional, very helpful and an expert on performance clutching. Befor jumping into clucth modifications, be sure you secondary clutch offset, and clutch center-center distance are correct and that the cluctch components are in spec., i.e. no excessive play/binding. This is an often overlooked area.
Other areas to pay attention to are: 1. the ignition coils-make sure the spark plugs wells and coils are clean, these coils rattle on the spark plug and generate lots of metal debris which causes arcing and a severe loss in power and erratic performance. 2. the carbs - make sure they are CLEAN, and synchronized. You will lose a lot of performance with dirty carbs. 3. drive train bearings - starting at the jackshaft, inspect/test the condition of every bearing. Open the chaincase and clean it out, inspect the chain. refill it will a synthetic gear lube or chaincase lube.
Top performance is the sum of ALL of these things. Many people ignore the details, spend a large amount of money on all sorts of perf. mods only to be disappointed. Details, details, details.
For the best performance value for the $, go to the MODS section and take a look at the air box mod post by Mr. Sled Dog. This airbox mod is simple to do and will allow your enine to breathe better. This airbox mod is very similar to a mod offered by Ted Jannetty, a performance expert on this site. If you do not want to do this mod yourself, you can send your airbox to Ted and he will modify it for a very small fee. This airbox mod is better than the airfilter kit, ECP kit, since it retains the function of the airbox, minimizes the intake noise and is much less expensive. Acccording to Ted J., this air box mod delivers 2 more HP across the entire RPM range than the ECP kit as verified on the ECP dyno.
If you want to modify the clutching and do not want to tinker with it yourself, either convince Mr. Turk to give you a clutching recipe or by a clucth kit from Ullmer Racing. I bought a clutch kit from Allen Ullmer. He is a terrific person to deal with: honest, professional, very helpful and an expert on performance clutching. Befor jumping into clucth modifications, be sure you secondary clutch offset, and clutch center-center distance are correct and that the cluctch components are in spec., i.e. no excessive play/binding. This is an often overlooked area.
Other areas to pay attention to are: 1. the ignition coils-make sure the spark plugs wells and coils are clean, these coils rattle on the spark plug and generate lots of metal debris which causes arcing and a severe loss in power and erratic performance. 2. the carbs - make sure they are CLEAN, and synchronized. You will lose a lot of performance with dirty carbs. 3. drive train bearings - starting at the jackshaft, inspect/test the condition of every bearing. Open the chaincase and clean it out, inspect the chain. refill it will a synthetic gear lube or chaincase lube.
Top performance is the sum of ALL of these things. Many people ignore the details, spend a large amount of money on all sorts of perf. mods only to be disappointed. Details, details, details.
grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
a stock rx1 will gain by jetting up to 137.5 mains, as they run quite lean from the factory.
Black 1000
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Ah Turk, why you gotta be that way? LOL You cant make that ole RX a rocket ship?
Honk
TY 4 Stroke Master
I;d say to buy a set-up machine already if you can't do it yourself. It will be all messed up! If you change a whole bunch of stuff, without having the Knowledge to work on it, YOU will be stuck along the trails OFTEN! Maybe just put on a supercharger, or turbo. Isn't the RX fast enough already? Maybe trade to an Apex?
Black 1000
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
See thing is I think hes asking for too much. Get a good clutch set up and air intake system and the RX will run as good as it can. But if you want to beat a massaged F7 you better get nitrous or super/turbo charger. Turk can give you a lot with clutching but he cant do the impossible. So I feel he doesnt want to help only to have the guy be still dissapointed. but alas i am speaking out of turn
RaWarrior
Extreme
Beating a F7 in off-the-line performance is no small feat. Sure, you'll take in in top end pretty easily, but these sleds are heavy and that sucks for acceleration.
If you really want more punch from the gas, consider gearing down. Add a tooth to the bottom sprocket, or lose one from the top. The Warrior's had from factory a 1 tooth larger bottom to compensate for the longer track anyway. Playing with gearing isn't hard and you can get significant gains in one area. More punch= less top end, you'll lose several mph top end for each tooth you lose.
A blower will achieve the feat you're looking for, but only if you've got big bucks to spend on it...expect to spend around $5000 for the kit, more if you want it installed. Though, a RX1 with a blower is pretty much the fastest sled on the planet. Absolutely nothing can touch it.
Playing with clutching IMO is best left to professionals. It wouldn't seem that complicated, two wheels and a belt, but time and time again I've realized that it is hopelessly beyond me ever truly understanding it. Just "playing around" with them hoping for gains never seems to work out.
If you really want more punch from the gas, consider gearing down. Add a tooth to the bottom sprocket, or lose one from the top. The Warrior's had from factory a 1 tooth larger bottom to compensate for the longer track anyway. Playing with gearing isn't hard and you can get significant gains in one area. More punch= less top end, you'll lose several mph top end for each tooth you lose.
A blower will achieve the feat you're looking for, but only if you've got big bucks to spend on it...expect to spend around $5000 for the kit, more if you want it installed. Though, a RX1 with a blower is pretty much the fastest sled on the planet. Absolutely nothing can touch it.
Playing with clutching IMO is best left to professionals. It wouldn't seem that complicated, two wheels and a belt, but time and time again I've realized that it is hopelessly beyond me ever truly understanding it. Just "playing around" with them hoping for gains never seems to work out.
dontac790
Newbie
Thanks for all of the helpful advice guys. I’m going to try the air box mod and rejet to the 137.5 mains and see where that gets me. Here’s a little history on both the sled and myself;
I bought the RX wrecked; both bulkheads cracked and split, the right side a-arms completely ripped off, oil tank crushed, and front plastics cracked and broken. The sled sat for about a year and a half before I got it, so the carbs needed a run through as well. After about a week and a half of solid 4 hour nights, the rx has been brought back to an almost showroom appearance.
Upon firing it up for the first time, I noticed an exhaust leak. Back apart she came; new doughnuts and manifold gasket installed, and back together again. Once completed, I took it off the lift and brought it out for a test ride.
I put about 70 miles on it to get a feel for anything I would need to investigate or adjust. Everything was perfect with the exception of a nasty clutch rattle under 2200 rpm’s, a slight hesitation when railing the throttle to the post, both from a stop and from a rolling 30+/- mph start, and what sounds like excessive track noise.
Once back in the shop, I rechecked the track tension and alignment, both perfectly in spec. With the track off the ground, I revved enough to get the track spinning and still noticed the noise. Also, it would stop quickly after releasing the throttle. I’m told this is normal, but it just doesn’t feel right. We have three other RX-1’s in the shop, another 03, an 04, and an 05, and their tracks seem similar, but don’t stop quite as quickly. Keep in mind; I replaced all of the wheels/bearings in the skid. Any suggestions on that would be helpful as well.
Now I am ready to pull the carbs again, do something about the clutch noise, and pull the skid again. The other RX-1’s have the clutch rattle, but nowhere near as bad. Mine sounds like it’s going to come apart.
Because I’m pulling the clutch anyway, I figured that I should get a recipe that would make the sled faster and perform more to my liking; aggressive trail riding and frequent lake drags. Turk, if you have any suggestions, it would be highly appreciated. I apologize if the setup to my original post made it sound as though my expectations were too high, I just don’t know the first thing about clutching and what to do with it. Please impart some wisdom this direction and forgive my frustration, it’s been a long month in the shop getting this thing ride-ready. I’m willing to put in the time and effort both working on the sled, and understanding more about clutching.
My apologies for the long post, but I figured if I’m looking for helpful advice, some information on me would help you see that your advice is not wasted. Thanks again to those who posted and your tips will be put to good use.
I bought the RX wrecked; both bulkheads cracked and split, the right side a-arms completely ripped off, oil tank crushed, and front plastics cracked and broken. The sled sat for about a year and a half before I got it, so the carbs needed a run through as well. After about a week and a half of solid 4 hour nights, the rx has been brought back to an almost showroom appearance.
Upon firing it up for the first time, I noticed an exhaust leak. Back apart she came; new doughnuts and manifold gasket installed, and back together again. Once completed, I took it off the lift and brought it out for a test ride.
I put about 70 miles on it to get a feel for anything I would need to investigate or adjust. Everything was perfect with the exception of a nasty clutch rattle under 2200 rpm’s, a slight hesitation when railing the throttle to the post, both from a stop and from a rolling 30+/- mph start, and what sounds like excessive track noise.
Once back in the shop, I rechecked the track tension and alignment, both perfectly in spec. With the track off the ground, I revved enough to get the track spinning and still noticed the noise. Also, it would stop quickly after releasing the throttle. I’m told this is normal, but it just doesn’t feel right. We have three other RX-1’s in the shop, another 03, an 04, and an 05, and their tracks seem similar, but don’t stop quite as quickly. Keep in mind; I replaced all of the wheels/bearings in the skid. Any suggestions on that would be helpful as well.
Now I am ready to pull the carbs again, do something about the clutch noise, and pull the skid again. The other RX-1’s have the clutch rattle, but nowhere near as bad. Mine sounds like it’s going to come apart.
Because I’m pulling the clutch anyway, I figured that I should get a recipe that would make the sled faster and perform more to my liking; aggressive trail riding and frequent lake drags. Turk, if you have any suggestions, it would be highly appreciated. I apologize if the setup to my original post made it sound as though my expectations were too high, I just don’t know the first thing about clutching and what to do with it. Please impart some wisdom this direction and forgive my frustration, it’s been a long month in the shop getting this thing ride-ready. I’m willing to put in the time and effort both working on the sled, and understanding more about clutching.
My apologies for the long post, but I figured if I’m looking for helpful advice, some information on me would help you see that your advice is not wasted. Thanks again to those who posted and your tips will be put to good use.
my favourite for that sled is a set of 40/10 heelclickers
white hc spring
5 grams heel 4 grams tip
stock secondary
pulls like a freight train.
Ain,t no modded f-7 beater but runs strong.
white hc spring
5 grams heel 4 grams tip
stock secondary
pulls like a freight train.
Ain,t no modded f-7 beater but runs strong.
grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
dontac790, you said you are going to do an airbox mod and run 137.5 jetting. dont do it. the 137.5 jets help in a STOCK airbox, but are far too small to run in an opened or modded airbox.
Black 1000
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Ok so right now I have the ECP kit and I am interested in the modded air box. What are you guys doing?
culvert
Expert
Black1000 check out Sled Dogs post it he MOD section.
He drilled extra holes in bottom of box ad the baffle plate. Put in 165MJ and is running good so far.
I'm going to be doing this aswell. I find my filters are always freezing even with prefilters. The snow is just to fine and powdery up here in Northern Alberta.
He drilled extra holes in bottom of box ad the baffle plate. Put in 165MJ and is running good so far.
I'm going to be doing this aswell. I find my filters are always freezing even with prefilters. The snow is just to fine and powdery up here in Northern Alberta.
Black 1000
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Cool thanks. What mains came with the ECP kit? Anyone?
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