Just got it done with this project after much "learning" about when to lift, when to compress, when to pull, and when to curse. Always great fun to change brands and start wrenching on something totally different after I've become TOTALLY familiar with all the tricks of the trade for a certain Yellow brand of sleds over the past 30 years...
Comments:
1. I installed a 1.5 inch Intense track. Unfortuantely it rubs. I kept the stock drivers and upper axle wheels. Much to my surprise there is NOT enough clearance to simply bolt it in as a direct fit. Every lug in line with the rails rubs against the front heat exchanger protectors and the entire length of tunnel protectors. Despite the fact that I only went 1/4 inch taller than the OEM Ripsaw, the track will need to be notched to clear the protectors unless I want to change to smaller drivers, which would likely need regear/reclutch and smaller upper axle wheels...I'm surprised nobody else mentioned this or maybe I overlooked this fact in in the past here. It's nothing a 1/2 hour with a sharp utility knife can't solve, but anyone contemplating a track swap to a deeper lug might want to be aware that a pre-notch or do-it-yerself notching job will be necessary unless you're changing other stuff, too.
2. My new Intense track comes with light weight track clips full of holes....the original Ripsaw has the old style non-holy heavy track clips. Not sure that it matters or not.
3. Before putting the track in, I installed SLP wear pads. I like 'em! Can definitely see the concept and I think they will work well. Time will tell how my hyfax holds out and how freely this thing runs in occasional low-snow conditions.
4. The 1.5 inch Intense with SLP wearpads installed is exactly 2 pounds heavier than the OEM Ripsaw. Not bad...I was expecting heavier.
Questions:
I don't like doing this sort of thing without a shop manual, but it's done now...I have two specs I'd like to verify if anyone out there can share:
1. How much back & forth free play should there be in the secondary clutch on the shaft?
2. How much freeplay should there be in the brake disc on the shaft?
Just want to verify I didn't move anything or lose a shim or something...always like to know things are set up properly.
That's all for now! After I finish notching the track I'll button it up and probably take a few pics of all my improvements and post them here. Might take me a week as I'm not working on it much right now. But I'm just about ready to put it away for summer and start praying for the first snowfall....
Thanks to all here who have helped me decide to pry my cold, stiff hands from my Doo habit, and how to improve on what I bought. Hopefully I've built me a respectable boondocker...
Comments:
1. I installed a 1.5 inch Intense track. Unfortuantely it rubs. I kept the stock drivers and upper axle wheels. Much to my surprise there is NOT enough clearance to simply bolt it in as a direct fit. Every lug in line with the rails rubs against the front heat exchanger protectors and the entire length of tunnel protectors. Despite the fact that I only went 1/4 inch taller than the OEM Ripsaw, the track will need to be notched to clear the protectors unless I want to change to smaller drivers, which would likely need regear/reclutch and smaller upper axle wheels...I'm surprised nobody else mentioned this or maybe I overlooked this fact in in the past here. It's nothing a 1/2 hour with a sharp utility knife can't solve, but anyone contemplating a track swap to a deeper lug might want to be aware that a pre-notch or do-it-yerself notching job will be necessary unless you're changing other stuff, too.
2. My new Intense track comes with light weight track clips full of holes....the original Ripsaw has the old style non-holy heavy track clips. Not sure that it matters or not.
3. Before putting the track in, I installed SLP wear pads. I like 'em! Can definitely see the concept and I think they will work well. Time will tell how my hyfax holds out and how freely this thing runs in occasional low-snow conditions.
4. The 1.5 inch Intense with SLP wearpads installed is exactly 2 pounds heavier than the OEM Ripsaw. Not bad...I was expecting heavier.
Questions:
I don't like doing this sort of thing without a shop manual, but it's done now...I have two specs I'd like to verify if anyone out there can share:
1. How much back & forth free play should there be in the secondary clutch on the shaft?
2. How much freeplay should there be in the brake disc on the shaft?
Just want to verify I didn't move anything or lose a shim or something...always like to know things are set up properly.
That's all for now! After I finish notching the track I'll button it up and probably take a few pics of all my improvements and post them here. Might take me a week as I'm not working on it much right now. But I'm just about ready to put it away for summer and start praying for the first snowfall....
Thanks to all here who have helped me decide to pry my cold, stiff hands from my Doo habit, and how to improve on what I bought. Hopefully I've built me a respectable boondocker...
FormulaPro
Extreme
Good info Crazy... any interesting shooting out to Boston to help me do mine? Free Brats and Buds? Lol...just kidding.
Interesting you didn't consider going to Intro/Extro drivers while you had the shaft out.
Do post some pics when you have time. About how long did the swap take overall? I am in the same boat as you... been wrenching Polaris sleds for 25 years.
Interesting you didn't consider going to Intro/Extro drivers while you had the shaft out.
Do post some pics when you have time. About how long did the swap take overall? I am in the same boat as you... been wrenching Polaris sleds for 25 years.
jimmie d
TY 4 Stroke Master
Rather than notch a lot have just removed the tunnel protectors with 1.5 tracks on RX/Apex and on 1.25 on Viper..
Jim
Jim
Formula....I really didn't time myself as I did it in a series of 1 to 2 hour sessions in evenings as the mood striked. I will say it took me probably twice as long as it normally would take me to do a Ski-Doo, but that's somewhat expected for a first time on a strange sled, and I was being VERY methodical and slow about it. I suppose if I were to hazard a wild guess I might have spent about 8 hours? Extroverts may be considered later only if I experience a ratcheting problem...I wanna ride it first and see how it holds. Next time I do this it should only take 4 hours so it's not a huge deal if I gotta yank the driveshaft again.
Jimmie d.....I'm very interested in your option. Do you or anyone else see any problem with simply removing all the tunnel and heat exchanger protectors? I will never stud this sled. It appears to me the protectors are screwed to the tunnel...hex screws or torx I assume? Can't see 'em. Also appears that gaining access to the screws to remove the protectors might involve removing the seat and exhaust....am I totally wrong on this? And the ones on the front heat exchanger are welded on and would need to be cut off, that doesn't excite me much if I ever wanted to put them back on. Almost seemed to me like these aluminum protectors might actually offer some structural rigidity to the tunnel, so I'm a little leery of this option. Would definitely like to hear more from you and others before I consider it....track notching is quite easy and totally harmless. Haven't actually taken the time to do it yet though. Thanks to all for the guidance.
Jimmie d.....I'm very interested in your option. Do you or anyone else see any problem with simply removing all the tunnel and heat exchanger protectors? I will never stud this sled. It appears to me the protectors are screwed to the tunnel...hex screws or torx I assume? Can't see 'em. Also appears that gaining access to the screws to remove the protectors might involve removing the seat and exhaust....am I totally wrong on this? And the ones on the front heat exchanger are welded on and would need to be cut off, that doesn't excite me much if I ever wanted to put them back on. Almost seemed to me like these aluminum protectors might actually offer some structural rigidity to the tunnel, so I'm a little leery of this option. Would definitely like to hear more from you and others before I consider it....track notching is quite easy and totally harmless. Haven't actually taken the time to do it yet though. Thanks to all for the guidance.
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