ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
so i took their design and started to make my own....
IMO the width of 2" is alittle wide,so i made mine 1-3/4" long(less area to hit my stud heads),and since i had a whole bunch of 1" round stock around,i decided to use it as my shock is already worn somewhat,and 1" should work perfectly. I think their 1-1/8" tall loop will tend to rub alot IMO.
i also slightly crushed the ends to give it abit of a shape so no sharp edges will catch the rubber track when it flaps against this at hi speeds.
some pics....
1" x 1-3/4" long round tube
slightly crushed ends to shape it
shows how track will contact round bar prior to shock
Just need to file off powdercoat and weld it into place....then have entire arm powdercoated to look as good as a new 09 rear arm....saving at least 200 bucks.
funny thing is i thought about this way back in 06 when we all had the shock rubbing,but it seemed like a crude way to stop the rub...but i guess if this is how yammie is making the fix,it must work ok...i hope!
I still think larger 7.5" wheels on top would be best fix...i know DOO has some 7.5 wheels from old models that i thought about trying,but the worry there would be losing clearance above the track where studs will be closer to exhaust ect.
Dan
IMO the width of 2" is alittle wide,so i made mine 1-3/4" long(less area to hit my stud heads),and since i had a whole bunch of 1" round stock around,i decided to use it as my shock is already worn somewhat,and 1" should work perfectly. I think their 1-1/8" tall loop will tend to rub alot IMO.
i also slightly crushed the ends to give it abit of a shape so no sharp edges will catch the rubber track when it flaps against this at hi speeds.
some pics....
1" x 1-3/4" long round tube
slightly crushed ends to shape it
shows how track will contact round bar prior to shock
Just need to file off powdercoat and weld it into place....then have entire arm powdercoated to look as good as a new 09 rear arm....saving at least 200 bucks.
funny thing is i thought about this way back in 06 when we all had the shock rubbing,but it seemed like a crude way to stop the rub...but i guess if this is how yammie is making the fix,it must work ok...i hope!
I still think larger 7.5" wheels on top would be best fix...i know DOO has some 7.5 wheels from old models that i thought about trying,but the worry there would be losing clearance above the track where studs will be closer to exhaust ect.
Dan
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2005
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- Location
- Huntsville Ontario & Niagara NY
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- Snowmobile
- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
Ok have been doing some brainstorming here....
since i run a 1" track,i have shorter studs then most(i run 1.175 GDs) so i think i have enough room where i could run a 7.5" wheel on the top axle,which should raise my track 1/4" away from my shock eye....
these wheels are 190mm or 7.5" shown in royal distributing and can be had aftermarket, Kimpex PROs....they were stock rear wheels on a 95 skidoo summit 670....they come with 6205 bearing too,so they will fit the top axle.
since my upper wheels and bearing are shot anyway i think i will try this idea,in conjunction with the welded loop...this should cure the shock eye rub altogether.
i dont recommend the larger top wheels for guys running stock ripsaw 1.25 tracks though since the headroom with the ripsaw is close when running 1.375 studs.
Ill post more when i get things back together
Dan
since i run a 1" track,i have shorter studs then most(i run 1.175 GDs) so i think i have enough room where i could run a 7.5" wheel on the top axle,which should raise my track 1/4" away from my shock eye....
these wheels are 190mm or 7.5" shown in royal distributing and can be had aftermarket, Kimpex PROs....they were stock rear wheels on a 95 skidoo summit 670....they come with 6205 bearing too,so they will fit the top axle.
since my upper wheels and bearing are shot anyway i think i will try this idea,in conjunction with the welded loop...this should cure the shock eye rub altogether.
i dont recommend the larger top wheels for guys running stock ripsaw 1.25 tracks though since the headroom with the ripsaw is close when running 1.375 studs.
Ill post more when i get things back together
Dan
big_red1a
Expert
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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- Snowmobile
- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
Damn.....wow!
do you know how tall the wheels are you used?...stock are 7" for top wheels.
im so glad i run a 1" track with 1.175s,i barely have a nick in my crossbrace,yours looks like it wore right thru!
you running your track really loose?...i have heard several guys running 1.450s and having no issues.
I may just reconsider and stick to 7" stock upper wheels now especially since i got my rear arm updated with LOOP like 09s now.
i think you might want to lower your rear mounts with some drop brackets.
Dan
do you know how tall the wheels are you used?...stock are 7" for top wheels.
im so glad i run a 1" track with 1.175s,i barely have a nick in my crossbrace,yours looks like it wore right thru!
you running your track really loose?...i have heard several guys running 1.450s and having no issues.
I may just reconsider and stick to 7" stock upper wheels now especially since i got my rear arm updated with LOOP like 09s now.
i think you might want to lower your rear mounts with some drop brackets.
Dan
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
some finished pics....
dan
loop PCd by Welterracer
dan
loop PCd by Welterracer
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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- Snowmobile
- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
ScottyD
Expert
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good thread, when i had my ck skid out i saw my front shock was rubbing on the bottom eye, and the rear shock was rubbing on the top eye. i thought i had my track tight enough, i was considering putting a set of bearings and longer shock bolts to help stop this
