Idler wheels,2 bolt mounts,Mono skid fixes...PICS!!!

[morg]

Placement on longer track??

Ok...sorry but I'm fairly new to Yamaha....and quite slow I guess....lol
I bought an 07 with a 144 rail extension. I am going through hyfax like crazy. I definatly need another wheel where the extension is as that is where the excessive hyfax wear is occuring. My question is where is the best place to put the wheel? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Sportfury]

Idler Wheels

I think that the whole rear end and skid sucks they brake, don't last, and they bottom out to easy. I think that it is putting perfume on a pig!!! Replace it I am zx2 I am not putting another bogie wheel , high fax, w arm revalved shock, bushing , bolt, cracked rails, YAMI stuff on again. I have done it all and it just don't hold up. If you want to fix, fix the cause and the problem. If you bottom this suspension out or ride it hard it just don't last . I wish Yamaha would put as much engineering in the rear suspension as they did the everything else.

 

[Caplar]

hey dan, this is awesome and i plan on making many of these upgrades this summer to my mono skid. What i want to know is, if i want to order a 6 wheel kit from tricked toys, which kit should i order in order to get the 135mm idlers for my front 4 outer wheels. And if i use the the 2 bolt BRP mounts for the front two outer idlers, with the standard mounts on the back two outer idlers, will both support the nasty nuts offered by trick toys?

Also are you running a stock size bogey (rear) wheel with the tricked toys wheels?

thanks, brandon

 

[Gashole]

mono skid fixes; BRP 2-bolt mounts

Dan, Where did you buy the BRP 2 bolt mounts? Is that a Yama number or after market?

 

[JROCK]

Those are bombardier mounts (skidoo)! Part #s are on the 1st page of this topic.

 

[Rove44]

Thanks RockerDan just bought 6 of the kimpex pros Great price. thanks for all the input..

 

[MarkAttack]

Thanks for all of the Good iodeas.

Great pics Dan and thanks for including part numbers. Do you happen to have part numbers for the BRP black idler wheels? Do they come with 6205 bearings installed or need to be purchased separate?

I have lost my Halifax 3 times now. First I drilled and tapped to 1/4" then I welded them back in and drilled and tapped to 6 mm again. It looks like you used a 1/4" stainless bolt with the nylock nut

I will either copy all of your mods or I will instal a Team Fast Air Suspension, which uses Polaris idler wheels. I have a 2006 Attak , but would like to possibly go to the 144" track. I have only lost track clips when the hyfax slid back against the rear idler wheels and peeled them off.

I have purchased the Yamaha front sprockets with a tooth every other hole which works with a semi clipped track.

 

[mckracker]

Hey Dan.

Awesome post on the mono rebuild. My question is about the anti-rub tube you welded on. You used 1" tubing and the beef up uses 1 and 1/8". How did yours hold up. No more track rub on the shock? I've been contemplating the 1 1/8 vs the 1 inch tubing.

Thanks again for your great info.

 

[Dynomax666]

I just got my parts back from Brian (welterracer) Brian at halfbaked coatings does a fantastic job on his BEEFUP KIT,the Beef up kit adds Gussets to the front arm of our MONO skid similar to the 09s. He also fixes any cracks(i had a few) and powdercoats them to look better then NEW!....Great Job BRIAN!

BEFORE

AFTER!



I put the skid back together and figured i would share my FIXES for all the issues our MONO skids have. Most of you know these fixes but the subject of idler wheels, cracked arms and rails,overheated clips, and shock rubbing are in the threads dailey....so im hoping this thread helps many.

Mono skids from 06 to 08 all seem to have same issues,even some 09s and 10s too

-sliders wear too fast
-idler wheels
-shock rubbing the track
-cracked rails
-cracked front arms
-losing track clips
-slider bolts shearing off,sliders coming off
-slider CAPS coming loose

I wanted to address ALL of the above issues once an for all!!!

135mm Idlers
to start with,i think a larger OD idler wheel solves many probs we have....it reduces slider wear and slider heat,while also reducing clips overheating which inturn often leads to clips coming off. the larger wheels solve alot(135mm with 6205 bearings)

2 bolt mounts
In conjunction with 135mm idlers, you also need to install 2 bolts mounts. this cures any RAIL cracking due to its better support of the 135mm wheels. I use BRP 2 bolt mounts. you will keep stock 1 bolt mounts ONLY at one location(middle outers)....these do not need the support since they are attached to steel brackets and cannot bend,you will need to grind off approx 2mm off flat/backside of stock mount,this allows the stock LOCKNUTS and BOLTS to be used on your new 135mm wheels with 6205 bearings.otherwise the stock locknut is not gonna grab and lock properly.you will also need to enlargen the BRP bolt hole slightly to accept the stock yammie bolt at the front location only(outers) the rear inners will need the BRP long bolts.

2 bolt mount(BRP)


need to grind out groove alittle to match the edge of rails...easy!(OUTERS test fit)

INNERS(BRP)DONE


I am using BRP 135mm wheels for inners(shown above)i have seen much luck with KIMPEX PRO IDLERS at this location too(5.25" you want)....outers I decided to use BILLET 135mm wheels,since they are lifetime warranteed thru tricked toys,no more rubber coming off!

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
replacing the slider caps....I filled them with silicone and used stainless steel bolts,nylock nuts and washers,this should help keep them tighter....


More wheels are also needed in front and middle....i use the fix powersports kits....i know some have had issues with them,but the wheels can be replaced for cheap and i think they help alot at the curve and middle...you can get cheap replacement wheels for the FIX KITS online.


BRP parts for 2 bolt mounts:
-503 190 389 (2 bolt mounts,need qty 4)
-207 088 544 (8mm x 85mm long bolts for INNER idlers only(need qty 2) outers you will use stock bolts)
-207 182 544 (8mm x 25mm short bolts for bottom of mounts,need at all locations,need qty 4)
-233 281 414 (8mm nylock nuts for all bolts,need qty 6 )
-503 183 100 (large washers for against wheels,needed at inners only,need qty2)
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For my slider bolt fix
Next I wanted to solve the horrible design of the slider bolts that are threaded into the front of the rails,most guys strip these right away,and they are a bitch to get in straight most times....DOOs come with a nice nylock nut on their slider bolts....so I did same. this will help those guys who have had their slider bolts loosen,and then sheared off by track,you know who you are!....this will cure that!

I drilled a hole thru side of rail in the center of where the threads show....i counted up 5.5 threads(6mm) from bottom angled edge of rails,i made a punch mark there into the threads,then drilled a small hole 3/16",then enlarged the hole to 13/32"...then I drilled out the stock threaded holes with a 1/4" bit,this cleans out the threads...i then used a FILE to square off the 11/32 hole to accept the DOO nylock nut tightly....this holds itself in place when tightening the slider bolt....install sliders,use stock bolts and DOO nylock nuts and apply locktight..DONE!

Slider Bolts FIX
-use stock 6mm bolts
-232 561 414 (BRP/DOO nylock nuts for slider bolts,qty 2)

measure 6mm or 5.5 threads up


Make PUNCH mark there at 6mm


Drill a 3/16 hole first,then a 13/32 hole


Use a small file to square off hole


Now drill out threads with 1/4" bit


test fit the nylock nut


Done!


More to come....
Dan

Awesome thread, but am I the only one the photos don't load for? I did have this problem sunday on a quick run... I haven't had a chance to thaw things out and look it over, but i'm sure the bolt was sheared, hoping enough to grab it with vice grips and extract easily. this seems like the best fit to ensure success. The OTHER thing I thought about driving home was the possibility that the rubber guide on the front of the skid seemed loose when I changed the hyfax, i'm thinking in prevention of angling the front inch of the hyfax similar to what the rear is... conditions were very hard when this failure happened im thinking possibly something hard hit the track and possibily caused a clip to jam hard on the hyfax and shear the bolt...

I should have known this as when I changed the hyfax last summer one of the heads was bent on the same rail as this failure occured.

Anyway if this is pinned somewhere else that is great, but unfortunatly the photos don't load! explained quite well I think i can figure it out but anyway...

Thanks

 

[maim]

this is a 13 year old post. most of the picture hosting sites from back then are now pay and most do not want to pay for what was free.

 

[Dynomax666]

this is a 13 year old post. most of the picture hosting sites from back then are now pay and most do not want to pay for what was free.

Gotcha. I clicked the photos and didn't realize they were hosted by a third party. Anyway I think it's pretty straight forward. Cross drill the rail and file to the exact nylock nut size and drill out the threads. I can't risk this happening again!