Idler wheels,2 bolt mounts,Mono skid fixes...PICS!!!

[Mooseman]

Yes for two reasons. 1. Your single bolt mount would need to be machined down to reposition the wheel back to its proper position. The Doo mount is already at proper length. 2. The single bolt mount will either crack or bend your rail.

I installed those 5.25" wheels and used the Doo two bolt mounts all around. It's cheap peace of mind.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Do you need 2 bolt mounts for the kimpex 5.25's?
I just ordered 4 due to my bearings graveling, but have no rail issues.

hoping to use stock mounts

thanks

Ramb

it is always best to use a 2 bolt DOO mount when using any wheel with a 6205 bearing(15mm wide instead of 12mm wide on stock wheels)

also going to 5.25 or 135mm is larger then stock and will put more pressure on rails to crack them....many guys have even cracked rails with the stock 130mm wheels and stock 1 bolt mounts.

yammie really screwed up when they decided to save a few OUNCES of weight with their one bolt mounts...just a stupid design.

for the 6 bucks these mounts cost,and the small amount of work to make them fit i would do it.

remember,you only need 4 of them as the stock 1 bolt mounts work fine on the steel bracket(middle outer location)

2-rear Inners
2-front outers

Dan

 

[Shootinstick]

Dan,
Am I correct in understanding the Doo 2 bolt mounts do not need to be machined down to put wheels with 6205 bearings in the right location? All they need is a little fitting on the groove where they go against the rail?

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Dan,
Am I correct in understanding the Doo 2 bolt mounts do not need to be machined down to put wheels with 6205 bearings in the right location? All they need is a little fitting on the groove where they go against the rail?

correct only machine the groove.


when you use the fatter yammie bolts for front DOO mounts,you will need to drill out the hole to fit this bolt thru DOO mount.

rear doo inner mounts will use DOO bolts.

Dan

 

[Rayman5271]

Where are you finding the brp mounts for $6?

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Where are you finding the brp mounts for $6?

in canada royal dist has them for less.....i got my BRP mounts at my BRP dealer for 5.74 here in WNY region


Dan

 

[danq]

Check your transfer rod bearings and grease them!

I just finished my rear skid rebuild as well after 10K miles.
I added a 4th wheel kit, new outside rear wheels, replaced all the bearings, bushings, beefup kit, pioneer rebuild on shock. Over $725 spent on parts+ 10 hours of my time to R&R skid.

One thing I didn't see mentioned in Rockerdan's excellent write up here is to look at the needle bearings on each end of the transfer rod.
Mine were rusty and dry. I greased them up, but ordered replacment bearings and seals.

Better add another other part to the list of parts that need to be greased regularly...

Rough Cost breakout
$150 Shock rebuild
$225 Beefup powercoat
$ 50 4th wheel kit
$ 30 6 idler bearings for Yamaha accessory wheels
$ 56 2 Rear spoked Wheels
$ 42 32 Guide Clips (originals worn paper thin or broken)
$ 30 Hyfax
$ 15 3 Rear and upper wheel bearings
$ 30 2 Traction rod bearings
$ 75 Pioneer Monoshock bushing kit
$ 36 2 Fix powersport wheels
$ 0 1 cracked rail (replaced under YES warranty)
$ 0 repaired Ohlins Shock wire (repaired YES warranty)
-------
$739 for another 10K miles and a skid updated to '10 specs

 

[Rayman5271]

I have a nytro rtx se, I replaced the two outer wheels with 135mm, used longer bolts and bushings. I added 2 135mm with 2 bolt mounts to the rear and they fit great. I want to use the two bolts on the front inners and outer wheels ive replaced but the outers have the slide spring attachments and the inners have a gas shock chamber attached to them. Anyone done this or am I better off using the stock mounts with bushings/machining or just leaving stock wheels?

 

[Rayman5271]

May be a stupid question but, what is the reason we can't find 135mm wheels with stock bearings so no machining or changing the mounts is required? Do they not make a 20mm bearing replacement or ? Some of these aftermarket billet wheel makers must be able to make stockers at 135mm?

 

[Vincenthdfan]

May be a stupid question but, what is the reason we can't find 135mm wheels with stock bearings so no machining or changing the mounts is required? Do they not make a 20mm bearing replacement or ? Some of these aftermarket billet wheel makers must be able to make stockers at 135mm?

Well I'll tell you what...if you find the larger diameter wheel with the Yamaha sized bearing, PLEASE let us all know what it is and where you found it.

I have researched, read, scanned, etc and thought I finally found what I needed in the Kimpex catalogue....or so I thought.

Since I couldnt order from the manufacturers catalogue, I researched again where I could buy this particular Kimpex part number wheel.

Al's snowmobile shop (advertised in all the snowmobile mags) had them in stock and at a good price...whooohooo!!

Not so fast... the salesman read the specs on it and it said that wheel had the larger thickness bearing in it, contrary to what the Kimpex catologue stated in it!!

He then went to the shelf, retreived one and measured the bearing for me...yep, the larger width bearing...the manufacturer spec'd their own wheel wrong in the damn catalogue!!

I give up...I bought Polaris two bolt mounts which fit the rails great. I then Bought a butt load of used Polaris 135mm wheels for next to nothing and resigned myself to the fact that I will just need to get the mounts machined down to stock specifications (no big deal really, just a time eater).

So yeah, like I said...if you figure it out, please let us all know!!

 

[ROCKERDAN]

May be a stupid question but, what is the reason we can't find 135mm wheels with stock bearings so no machining or changing the mounts is required? Do they not make a 20mm bearing replacement or ? Some of these aftermarket billet wheel makers must be able to make stockers at 135mm?

the reason for 2 bolt mounts is cause larger wheels add more pressure to rail.

why would you want the narrow bearings anyway?

dan

 

[Vincenthdfan]

May be a stupid question but, what is the reason we can't find 135mm wheels with stock bearings so no machining or changing the mounts is required? Do they not make a 20mm bearing replacement or ? Some of these aftermarket billet wheel makers must be able to make stockers at 135mm?

the reason for 2 bolt mounts is cause larger wheels add more pressure to rail.

why would you want the narrow bearings anyway?

dan

The narrow bearings will enable larger diameter (135mm) wheels to follow the same path as the stock (130mm) wheels, utilizing readily available mounts (Polaris).

Also (and most importantly, to me anyway), the suspension mounted inboard idler wheels will need to have the aluminum spacer tubes machined down in order for the larger wheels to follow the same path as the stockers...all because of the bearing width differences.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

May be a stupid question but, what is the reason we can't find 135mm wheels with stock bearings so no machining or changing the mounts is required? Do they not make a 20mm bearing replacement or ? Some of these aftermarket billet wheel makers must be able to make stockers at 135mm?

the reason for 2 bolt mounts is cause larger wheels add more pressure to rail.

why would you want the narrow bearings anyway?

dan

The narrow bearings will enable larger diameter (135mm) wheels to follow the same path as the stock (130mm) wheels, utilizing readily available mounts (Polaris).

Also, the suspension mounted inboard idler wheels will need to have the aluminum tubes machined down in order for the larger wheels to follow the same path as stock...all because of the bearing width differences.

not sure what you mean.....the DOO 2 bolts mounts with 6205 bearings are perfectly centered in track.

it all works together nicely

Dan

 

[Vincenthdfan]

May be a stupid question but, what is the reason we can't find 135mm wheels with stock bearings so no machining or changing the mounts is required? Do they not make a 20mm bearing replacement or ? Some of these aftermarket billet wheel makers must be able to make stockers at 135mm?

the reason for 2 bolt mounts is cause larger wheels add more pressure to rail.

why would you want the narrow bearings anyway?

dan

The narrow bearings will enable larger diameter (135mm) wheels to follow the same path as the stock (130mm) wheels, utilizing readily available mounts (Polaris).

Also, the suspension mounted inboard idler wheels will need to have the aluminum tubes machined down in order for the larger wheels to follow the same path as stock...all because of the bearing width differences.

not sure what you mean.....the DOO 2 bolts mounts with 6205 bearings are perfectly centered in track.

it all works together nicely

Dan

I was attempting to get readily available mounts (Polaris in my neck of the woods, cheap & plentiful).

Thats not the bigger headache here really for me anyway...its the inboard wheel spacers that are gonna be the biggest pain in the butt. I dont have the Mono Shock style suspension on my Mountain Apex, but do have premature hyfax wear Im trying to eliminate.

 

[Mooseman]

The narrow bearings will enable larger diameter (135mm) wheels to follow the same path as the stock (130mm) wheels, utilizing readily available mounts (Polaris).

Also (and most importantly, to me anyway), the suspension mounted inboard idler wheels will need to have the aluminum spacer tubes machined down in order for the larger wheels to follow the same path as the stockers...all because of the bearing width differences.

I understand what he means. Here are pics of my suspension. The idlers that are pointed to are attached to the suspension and therefore cannot be swapped for the 135mm wheels without machining the original mounts and suspension pieces to fit the wider bearings.

Here's an idea I just had. As far as I can tell, the diameter of the bearings are the same between the 6205 and the 6005, only the width is different. What if we could use a Doo 135mm wheel with a 6005 bearing? All we need to do is position the 6005 bearing in the middle of the 135mm wheel, cut a groove on each side of the bearing with a Dremel tool and install circlips on each side to retain the bearing in position. Does this sound crazy?

But I wouldn't recommend using the Kimpex Pro wheels as they are fatter and there is barely any wiggle room between the track lugs. I would have to check the regular Kimpex 135mm wheel to see if they are thinner.

BTW, I've been ordering all my Kimpex parts from my Yamaha dealer, prices comparable to Royal and no shipping fees.