Cracked slide rail - 07 RTX

ReX

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Carefully going over my sled I discovered that one of the slide rails has a small crack in it where the optional Yamaha idler wheels mount.

Knowing how the Monoshock slide rails used to crack where the inner wheels mount I was worried about this when I installed the optional wheels. I even called Yamaha and had my dealer talk to their service rep before I bought and installed the extra idlers. I was told there has never been a cracked slide rail on a ProActive from installing the optional pair of idler wheels. I guess now there is one...

With the Monoshock, Yamaha added a reinforcement kit to strengthen where the wheels mount. With the ProActive I don't think there is a reinforcement kit available.

Has anyone heard of a similar reinforcement kit available for the ProActive as used on the Monoshock?

Also, I was going to install 135mm idler wheels everywhere and have 6 ready to install. After seeing this, I think I'll go with 135mm idlers in the stock locations and smaller, 130mm idlers in this location.

Has anyone else seen this before?
 

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Make sure you take it to the dealer and have them register it with Yamaha. This is very important. Maxdlx
 
I have the mono skid and most of the wheel mounts are cracking because Yamaha went away from the two bolt wheel mount. The single bolt mount bends the tab on top the rail back and fourth eventually cracking the tab. Pics later
 
berge75 said:
I have the mono skid and most of the wheel mounts are cracking because Yamaha went away from the two bolt wheel mount. The single bolt mount bends the tab on top the rail back and fourth eventually cracking the tab. Pics later

In 05 (RX-1) lots of rails were cracking on the monoshock, but after Yamaha added the reinforcement kit (06 Apex), the guys I ride with haven't been seeing many cracks.

Are your rails still cracking with the Apex?

I noticed you had your shock revalved by Carver. How do you like it?
 
That is a much better mounting setup. Where did you get those mounts from?

Any comments on the Carver revalve (Q above)?
 
They look like the Skidoo mounts.
 
I have the same kit tha you have rex, I will look at mine tonight. If I get a crack in mine I will not be happy. I was wondering about the strenght of that mount, for the kind of money I payed for those I thought that they looked cheesy and weak.
 
I probably have cracks in my side rails too but guess what... im not gonna look! outta sight outta mind. Fast & Fragile. Seriously maybe you can buy some of that alumi-loy that chick with the monotone voice sells on the infomercial, all you need is a butane torch and its sronger than new... so they say.
 
Just got done tig welding my 06 Attak rail, cracked at the inner rear stock idler. Yamaha replaced and updated my 05 RX1 rails with the doubler supports at the jounce bumper but this is a new spot
 
RTXs said:
I probably have cracks in my side rails too but guess what... im not gonna look! outta sight outta mind. Fast & Fragile. Seriously maybe you can buy some of that alumi-loy that chick with the monotone voice sells on the infomercial, all you need is a butane torch and its sronger than new... so they say.

To be honest I'm going to do anything about it yet either.

The crack stops at the hole and the rail strength where the break is should still be just as strong as elsewhere.

I'm going to keep an eye on it and wait until it gets worse - if it does.

If it makes it until then, next summer I'll probably get the rail replaced under warranty and then design my own reinforcement kit (by then both sides might have cracked). I'll use the same approach that Yamaha did with the Monoshock.

The other thing I'm going to do right now is install wheels with 2.5mm additional radius in the front 4 locations. This way the cracked location won't see as much load and the pair of wheels there will only really come into play when the hyfax wears down a lot (hopefully making the rails last longer).

Still, this whole cracking issue does suck. Without adding extra wheels these suspensions are bulletproof (once you install custom oilight bushings at the top of the front pivot arm). By trying to improve the marginal snow capability we've greatly reduced the durability.
 
Grimm said:
They look like the Skidoo mounts.

Ding ding ding... we have a winner! The ski doo mounts are cheap $8 each,and allow the use of a wheel with the larger bearing (6205). You can also get the mount off of a srx-sx chassis suspension,but the ski-doo are less money. If your in to the yamaha wheels with the 6004 bearing, you can get Doo mounts for that wheel also. The issue with the mounting using the single bolt is not only are they breaking the rails,but is causing more slide wear,because the wheels aren't supporting the weight of the sled. I did this test on my old Vector,and slid wear disappeared,and never had any rail issues.
As far as the Carver rebuild,they did a good job with the shock,but I did some further valving on the rebound side,and went with Amsoil med. syn. shock fluid.
 
berge75 said:
Ding ding ding... we have a winner! The ski doo mounts are cheap $8 each,and allow the use of a wheel with the larger bearing (6205).


Do you have a part no. for that wheel mount? That would help a lot.
 
TBay Sledhead said:
berge75 said:
Ding ding ding... we have a winner! The ski doo mounts are cheap $8 each,and allow the use of a wheel with the larger bearing (6205).


Do you have a part no. for that wheel mount? That would help a lot.

Ski-doo Part#P503189679 for 6205 bearing. I run a 135mm(5.250) wheel.
NOTE, to fit properly,you have to file a the slot on the mount just a little to fit tightly to the rail.
 


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