Climbmax
Expert
I'm thinkin Rich......but check with Jeff when you can. Mine ran like a toilet during first outing as well......too rich. Ended up a couple sizes leaner in the end.
Hang On!!!!
CM
Hang On!!!!
CM
Turbo Tim
TY 4 Stroke Master
Hang on is right ! This thing runs at 3/4 throttle better than what I was expecting at full throttle ! My arms literally ached from trying to hang on..........
Can't wait to see what it does when it is running right
Can't wait to see what it does when it is running right
Turbo Tim
TY 4 Stroke Master
Well the word from Jeff is to re jet to 132.5 or 130 .....I guess he would know .........will try later in the week ,Much thanks to Jeff for the quick response.
Buckeye
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I run 132.5's in my McX front mount, Mc says to run 130's.
no problem hauler, i like to have the kits set-up with the richer jets initially, that way if something was installed improperly you have more safety margin, it is common for the engine to miss at wot with 135 mains. you better start working out your arms for when you put in the recommended jetts. jeff
HYERUP
Pro
RXHALLER- I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM LAST YEAR WITH MINE- SOME SUGGESTED NGK CR8EK PLUGS WOULD STOP THE CRACKLING, BUT I TOO THOUGHT IT WAS TOO LEAN. I ENDED UP WITH 160 MAINS AFTER TRYING 140, 145, 150 AND 155’S.
SPRAY MIGHT REMEMBER HELPING ME WITH THIS. IT PUZZLES ME TO THIS DAY WHY A LOT OF GUYS OUT THERE ARE RUNNING STOCK JETS (OR CLOSE) YET I HAD TO RUN MUCH LARGER JETS. I HAVE NO IDEA WHY I REQ'D SUCH LARGE JETS.
I ALSO LEAK TESTED MY CARBS TO SEE IF THE TEES WERE LEAKING. THEY WERE NOT, HOWEVER I FOUND AN EXTRAORDINARY AMOUNT OF AIR WAS LEAKING OUT OF THE CHOKES. I ADDED ANOTHER O-RING UNDER THE RUBBER CAP TO HELP SEAL THEM. THERE IS ALSO A LOT OF AIR LEAKING OUT FROM AROUND THE THROTTLE SHAFT (THAT HOLDS THE BUTTERFLIES). THERE IS NO WAY TO SEAL THAT AREA THAT I CAN SEE.
I AM STILL PUZZLED.
SPRAY MIGHT REMEMBER HELPING ME WITH THIS. IT PUZZLES ME TO THIS DAY WHY A LOT OF GUYS OUT THERE ARE RUNNING STOCK JETS (OR CLOSE) YET I HAD TO RUN MUCH LARGER JETS. I HAVE NO IDEA WHY I REQ'D SUCH LARGE JETS.
I ALSO LEAK TESTED MY CARBS TO SEE IF THE TEES WERE LEAKING. THEY WERE NOT, HOWEVER I FOUND AN EXTRAORDINARY AMOUNT OF AIR WAS LEAKING OUT OF THE CHOKES. I ADDED ANOTHER O-RING UNDER THE RUBBER CAP TO HELP SEAL THEM. THERE IS ALSO A LOT OF AIR LEAKING OUT FROM AROUND THE THROTTLE SHAFT (THAT HOLDS THE BUTTERFLIES). THERE IS NO WAY TO SEAL THAT AREA THAT I CAN SEE.
I AM STILL PUZZLED.
spray25
TY 4 Stroke God
Haller,
I would put in the jets the that Jeff suggested. If that doesn't fix it then I would HIGHLY recomend getting an air/fuel gauge. I know it is extra $$, but it is a tremendous help when chaising a gremlin.
I would put in the jets the that Jeff suggested. If that doesn't fix it then I would HIGHLY recomend getting an air/fuel gauge. I know it is extra $$, but it is a tremendous help when chaising a gremlin.
HYERUP
Pro
I ran straight 114 fuel @8/12/17 PSI. No matter what I did (160 Mains) my A/F guage would eventually work its way over to "lean"....was it the fuel?
Climbmax
Expert
Yours is a Bender Trubo Hyerup.......totally different on the jetting set up.
I'm @ 127.5 @ 6000'. A tad rich.
CM
I'm @ 127.5 @ 6000'. A tad rich.
CM
spray25
TY 4 Stroke God
HYERUP said:
Sounds more like a sensor. Are you absolutely sure your connections to your gauge were good. I chased a bad connection once for a while.
Did you by any chance have water or oil in your airbox?
BTW 160 sounds VERY VERY rich. Remind me of your elevation.
HYERUP
Pro
spray25
TY 4 Stroke God
I do remember helping, but I'm sorry to say I don't remember all of the details.
I agree if it's not broke don't fix it! However, I also agree that us sledders don't know how to leave stuff alone!! It's a disease that seems to be related to over exposure to snow
You might let your buddy that bought your sled know that Terry has reduced the jet size for the oil restrictor to a 90.
Race gas will in fact ruin your sensor after a while. So will being to rich, oil, and water.
I think you will be pretty happy with your new kit. Terry has worked hard to iron out several of the small wrinkles.
I agree if it's not broke don't fix it! However, I also agree that us sledders don't know how to leave stuff alone!! It's a disease that seems to be related to over exposure to snow
You might let your buddy that bought your sled know that Terry has reduced the jet size for the oil restrictor to a 90.
Race gas will in fact ruin your sensor after a while. So will being to rich, oil, and water.
I think you will be pretty happy with your new kit. Terry has worked hard to iron out several of the small wrinkles.
HYERUP
Pro
Thanks Spray-
My kit is S/N#255, another friend just got S/N#271 and it came with an aluminum plate to rivet in under the turbo. The instructions still make no mention of the plate, the oil jet (smaller jet), or any jet for that matter .
Anyway, can anyone explain how an 02 sensor works? Just curious.
My kit is S/N#255, another friend just got S/N#271 and it came with an aluminum plate to rivet in under the turbo. The instructions still make no mention of the plate, the oil jet (smaller jet), or any jet for that matter .
Anyway, can anyone explain how an 02 sensor works? Just curious.
An engine burns a mixture of gasoline and air. For the burning progress to be optimal, 14.7 grams of air for evey gram of fuel is needed to make the mixture. Therefore 14.7:1 ratio (Lambda = 1 = stoichiometric) is the chemically correct ratio....the mixture is neither rich nor lean.
Due to the fact that combustion is never perfect in the real world, there will always be a small amount of oxygen left in the exhaust. This small amount that is left is what the lambda (O2) sensor measures. The smaller the amount of oxygen in the exhaust, the richer the Air/Fuel ratio is, and the higher the oxygen sensor voltage is.
The idea with an O2 meter is simple - the lambda sensor sends voltage between 0 and 1 volts to the meter, and the meter lights the correct led for the given volt. Normally the O2 meters have 10 to 20 LEDs. In the case of 10 LEDs, each led represents a 100mV band. The first LED lights when the voltage is between 0.1V and 0.2V, next one between 0.2V and 0.3V, etc...
What do these voltages tell us? Well, first you must understand that you can't read the actual air/fuel ratio from the lambda sensor's signal. In theory the ratio is 14.7:1 when the voltage is 0.5V. However, since the lambda sensor's signal is reliable only in the center of the band, the more the voltage moves away from the 0.5V, the more inaccurate the readings are.
The lambda sensor is normally located pretty close to the engine, because the sensors operating temperature starts from about 300degrees celsius. The best place for the sensor is just after turbo.
There are two types of lambda sensors, cold and heated ones. Both sensors work with an O2-meter, but if you use cold sensor remember that it takes some time before the sensor starts sending correct info. Heated sensors start working much faster and will also work further from the engine.
Due to the fact that combustion is never perfect in the real world, there will always be a small amount of oxygen left in the exhaust. This small amount that is left is what the lambda (O2) sensor measures. The smaller the amount of oxygen in the exhaust, the richer the Air/Fuel ratio is, and the higher the oxygen sensor voltage is.
The idea with an O2 meter is simple - the lambda sensor sends voltage between 0 and 1 volts to the meter, and the meter lights the correct led for the given volt. Normally the O2 meters have 10 to 20 LEDs. In the case of 10 LEDs, each led represents a 100mV band. The first LED lights when the voltage is between 0.1V and 0.2V, next one between 0.2V and 0.3V, etc...
What do these voltages tell us? Well, first you must understand that you can't read the actual air/fuel ratio from the lambda sensor's signal. In theory the ratio is 14.7:1 when the voltage is 0.5V. However, since the lambda sensor's signal is reliable only in the center of the band, the more the voltage moves away from the 0.5V, the more inaccurate the readings are.
The lambda sensor is normally located pretty close to the engine, because the sensors operating temperature starts from about 300degrees celsius. The best place for the sensor is just after turbo.
There are two types of lambda sensors, cold and heated ones. Both sensors work with an O2-meter, but if you use cold sensor remember that it takes some time before the sensor starts sending correct info. Heated sensors start working much faster and will also work further from the engine.
Turbo Tim
TY 4 Stroke Master
They Dont say anything about the jet , (Bender) ,But one of the oil line connecting hoses has a jet clamped in place already.
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