Cutting transfer rod bushings

[Turbo50Mike]

I have heard people say something about cutting the lower transfer rod bushing in half...While I have my skid out, I might just do this, but was wondering what the actual effect is when I do this? I.e. Will it handle better? Or will it transfer more?

Thanks...

Oh, and check your W arm bushings...Mine were whooped and beat up the alum rod that rides inside there...

 

[LazyBastard]

It'll be a smoother ride over stutter bumps. Also, shouldn't have waited for skid removal - just a #14 wrench, remove the bolt and pop it off.

 

[Turbo50Mike]

It'll be a smoother ride over stutter bumps. Also, shouldn't have waited for skid removal - just a #14 wrench, remove the bolt and pop it off.

I understand...But I never thought about it until now. Usually the sled is in the trailer, so out of sight, out of mind...And since I have to wait for the bushings and rod to arrive I want to do something productive.

What do you guys cut them down to? Half?

 

[Red2003]

Mike, by cutting the washer you increase the amount of transfer to the front of the sled under braking / decelleration. It plants the skis harder coming into a corner. You also increase the amount the skid can tilt before coupling the rear suspension so you get a better ride as LB stated. It is critical for proper handling that the gap between the transfer rod on top is equal to the gap on the bottom, so by cutting the washer, you'll now have a bigger gap on the bottom then on the top. Adjust the preload on BOTH skid springs to bring the gaps back to equal amounts. I cut mine in half, but others have removed the washer entirely and had success as well. This helped my 03's handling a consideral amount and it rides better as well.

 

[Turbo50Mike]

Copy that Red.

Thanks guys...I will do as advised.

MJB

 

[Red2003]

Mike reread my last post. I edited it. You'll have to ADD preload to bring the gaps back into whack. I had to reduce mine, but that was because I changed springs and shocks at the same time I cut the washers. Sorry.

 

[LazyBastard]

Red... you were right the first time. Add space to the bottom, make it sit lower to compensate.

 

[Red2003]

Umm, are you sure? When my sled is sitting there without me on it the transfer rod has zero gap on the bottom. When I sit on it, it INCREASES the lower gap as the rod is being forced down along with the tunnell. Either way, Mike, make sure the gap is equal top and bottom with you on the machine at riding weight. Good luck!! Nice talking to you LB. I was wondering where you were.

 

[glred]

I'm running LB's setup, FRA max, spring min and the gaps on the transfer rods are not equal, big gap on top. Am I running my suspension too stiff??

 

[Red2003]

For correct overall performance the gaps need to be equal with the rider on the sled. I'd say your too stiff. Softening the rear will let is sag more and also help handling as it will lower the COG. If you're going to drop it, take equal pressure off both skid shocks. If you only sag the rear, then it'll take pressure off the skis too.

 

[NY_Nytro]

50/50 upto 60/40 ... top/bottom spacing is acceptable. I was told closer to 60/40 for a more aggressive rider.

 

[glred]

thanks, will do