Dc Outlet (12v)

You can find a cheaper one from parts unlimited or bell. We used a bell part and it isn't as good as the yamaha one. I'd say just splurge, it just plugs in then.
 
I got a 10 dollar 12 V kit Radio Shack, fuse and everything included. I hooked into the same lead the Yamaha kit plugs into. The 12V accessory feed is located behind the left upper cover near the steering post and a bunch of other electrical stuff. It has a black strand and an orange strand. It has a plug on the end of it which is capped.

I just took off the cap and took 2 smaller rubber plugs out of it. Then I fed the wires from the 12 V plug into this holes and put it back together. It works perfect. My only problem is my plug doesn't quite fit snugly in the factory hole, but thats not a big problem as it's still there after 1250 km.

Alternatively you could just run the wires staright to the battery, with a fuse of course. I opted for the other way as I wouldn't want to leave my GPS on and drin the sleds battery.


JP
 
Dang wish I would have known JP.I just put one on mine for heated shield.I just used the RCA type plug that came with the shield to battery with a 5 amp fuse.JP is the factory acc fused?
 
Yes the accesory feed is fused down by the battery, with all the other fuses. The manual says that it 15 amps.

JP
 
12 volt plug

If your only going to use the plug for your helmet and your helmet has a connector with wire leads after the connector then hook those leads like PJ10 did. I cut a small X on the rubber cap and ran the wires threw the cap and not the connector. works great. No cost.
 

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Re: 12 volt plug

diyguy said:
If your only going to use the plug for your helmet and your helmet has a connector with wire leads after the connector then hook those leads like PJ10 did. I cut a small X on the rubber cap and ran the wires threw the cap and not the connector. works great. No cost.


That is the exact same thing I did.
 
12 volt plug

Great minds think alike. Common sense isn't very common.
 
Should be a 3 amp in the fuse box right now but don't use higher than 2 amp since you can burn up heated shields. Yep, it has happened already.
 
I'm confused why the fuse would matter. If the shield only requires 2 amps then it will only draw 2 amps regardless of the fuse being 3 amps. The fuse only limits the max amount of current that can be drawn though the wires. The only thing that putting a 2 amp fuse in would do would prevent the visor from drawing more than 2 amps before it pops. If you use the 3 amp and you are burning up the visor something is wrong with the visor.
 
fuse for shield.

fedorov5549 said:
Should be a 3 amp in the fuse box right now but don't use higher than 2 amp since you can burn up heated shields. Yep, it has happened already.

The resistance of the fine wires in the shield is what limits the current to 2 amps not the fuse. The fuse only prevents a short circuit if something is shorted out. Look at it in this manner, A fine wire (like what is in the shields)will burn faster than a heavy wire when shorted across the battery posts but both will burn. As the shield heats up the resistance builds up and will draw to the maximum amps(current) but no more. Having a 3 amp fuse like whats in the fuse box is the correct one to use not a two amp which might blow when the shield heats up. Thanks and I hope I made sense of this.
 


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