Dialing in Snow Trackers on single keel ski

[SudburyApex]

I put semi aggressive trackers on my 2014 LTX-DX and have been adjusting them over the last 3 weeks. I am still struggling with a fair bit of push in tight fast turning and I am struggling to keep up with my group of riders. For context I borrowed my friends AC 7000 with 6" doolies and had no trouble keeping up in the turns (although the darting took some getting used to).


After the snowtracker install I aligned the skis for no toe-in and tightened up the front skid shock preload. Very bad push so i started to remove preload. I am now at pretty much at loose spring (1.25" of bottom thread showing-unloaded). This weekend I sucked in the limiter strap one hole from full out, which seemed to help but still pushing more than I feel it should. I have played with the front ski shock preload but haven't noticed a difference (I am currently halfway through the preload, but have also tried loose spring). My rear torsion block is at 1 since I am about 160 and 2 feels pretty rough. I set my coupling block to 3 so the skid will couple faster (I think that's what you want to prevent transfer to the back).

My next plan is to go to the third hole on the limiter strap. Has anyone with a similar setup and body weight had to do this to get the front end to hook up? I read through the forums and my sense is the folks that are getting great handling are 200lb plus, and probably have the mass required to keep the front end planted.

thanks!

 

[pdiddy]

What do you have for a track and studding?

 

[SudburyApex]

What do you have for a track and studding?

I have the stock track ripsaw 2, with 2 studs per bar (~100 studs)

 

[TPAY243]

Which trackers do you have. I would not recommend sucking up that limiter strap but if you do remember that you need to re adjust your spring pre load if you do. I would put the limiter strap back to the stock position and remove all the pre load out of center shock spring and then keep increasing the preload on you ski shocks until you get it were you want it. I have a set of ski's set up with trackers and there is zero darting and it turns just fine.

 

[TD Max]

Didn't the 2014 LTX rear shock have some valving issues? One thing that I found was rear skid shock rebound has a huge impact on steering. Needs to release more quickly to allow ski pressure. Look up Studroes older posts.

 

[SudburyApex]

Which trackers do you have.

Semi aggressive trackers

Which trackers do you have. I would not recommend sucking up that limiter strap but if you do remember that you need to re adjust your spring pre load if you do. I would put the limiter strap back to the stock position and remove all the pre load out of center shock

Yes I have heard this is ill advised as it takes away the suspension characteristics of the sled. I am actually one hole tighter than stock with the center shock preload all the way out (max ski pressure) and im still pushing, so I dont see how letting the strap out to stock is going to get me where I need to be.

then keep increasing the preload on you ski shocks until you get it were you want it.

That is something definitely worth trying (its a super quick adjustment as well). I was a little reluctant since I didnt want to make those bumps come through the bars by having a pile of ski spring preload, but I will give it a shot and report back.

I have a set of ski's set up with trackers and there is zero darting and it turns just fine.

Good to hear like many others you are having great results with the ST, Im pretty sure Ill get there (and I will be sure to document it here). I also have zero darting, just light steering (which I like) and push (which i hate).

 

[SudburyApex]

Didn't the 2014 LTX rear shock have some valving issues? One thing that I found was rear skid shock rebound has a huge impact on steering. Needs to release more quickly to allow ski pressure. Look up Studroes older posts.

Ive read through a few of those suspension mega threads. I think the big takeaway was the SE model Vipers had super stiff valving in the shocks. The DX models (like mine) did not. You are probably onto something since I feel steering is improved by going to my second position on the torsion block. Problem is at 170lb fully suited I feel the bumps alot more than on 1 (and I live in an area where trails are often wooped). I suppose when Im riding with the faster folks I can quickly twist up to 2 to get the weight more towards the front.

 

[TD Max]

I have the full clickers with rebound adjust so I can feel instant change. You might consider revalving the rear shock especially if it hasn't been serviced recently.

 

[Mike P]

Some times resetting back to the beginning is the only way to go. Try starting with the beginning basics and I bet it will all come together. Ski and/or carbide changes have a huge affect on a sleds handling. Trail conditions will change so try to pay attention to what is affecting your sled that can be compensated with rider input vs suspension set-up. A couple links that should get you started, good luck.

https://snowgoer.com/snowmobile-tec...-for-sharper-handling-and-a-better-ride/2447/

https://www.snowtechmagazine.com/single-most-important-adjustment-for-snowmobile-suspension-set-up/

 

[SudburyApex]

I have teh full clickers with rebound adjust so I can feel instant change. You might consider revalving the rear shock especially if it hasn't been serviced recently.

My shock package does not have rebound or compression adjustment. There is no wobble in my rear suspension so I assume it is OK but I will definitely be sending everything out in the spring for service.

 

[TD Max]

My shock package does not have rebound or compression adjustment. There is no wobble in my rear suspension so I assume it is OK but I will definitely be sending everything out in the spring for service.

Have them do a revalve and open up the rebound on the rear skid shock a bit. This should help a lot.

 

[WinderFab]

Are you getting any feedback through the bars?

 

[SudburyApex]

Are you getting any feedback through the bars?

By feedback do you mean a sensation of the trail surface? I suppose I am, but its fairly light. In some ways its very pleasant to drive at moderate speeds as it steers super light and there is zero darting.

My plan tonight is to test 2 adjustments: 1st I will back off the remaining preload from the center shock (there is currently 1 3/4" thread preload ). 2nd I will tighten the ski shock preload. One thing I have noticed with the other procross riders in my group is their ski shock preload is super tight. I always figured this would make the sled really unpleasant to ride and would shift the balance towards the back of the sled, but maybe not...

 

[SudburyApex]

SO, did step one of my plan above (bringing the spring retainer on the center shock to about 1/2" from the bottom) and went for a ride. The spring is quite loose when the sled is unloaded but when I get on the sled it snugs up. While loose snow conditions play a big role in push and the trails are very firm and crusty right now, I believe there is much more grip. I think the biggest indicator of increased traction was the inside ski lift I am now able to get. Not that the sled feels like its going to roll (a la Apex) but an indicator that you are hooked up. Ill be doing some longer rides this weekend with varying snow and I will post.

 

[KnappAttack]

You can tune till your blue in the face on Seim-Aggressives, they will push and nothing you can do about it. There is a reason they are called "semi-aggressive", its because they are not "aggressive". They will only work decent on actual hardpack or firm snow conditions. Typically people who purchase semi-aggressive are touring or casual and slower riders.

You need "Aggressive" SnowTrackers on those single keel skis. No reason to change anything on the suspension, set it for ride because the Aggressive SnowTrackers will go where pointed, not dart and steer easy.