blue er
Expert
i have the ulmer stage 2 kit and have only really tested it out the last week on the lake from a get go it rev's right to 11000 and rises to 11100 has lots of down low power but seems to fall off a bit on the top.
I have it set up from allen but if this set up needs tuning where would i start? the secondary is set at 70 and don't know how much weight is in the arms other than there is weight in the tip only.
thanks guys
I have it set up from allen but if this set up needs tuning where would i start? the secondary is set at 70 and don't know how much weight is in the arms other than there is weight in the tip only.
thanks guys
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Please put your sled model in your signature. What sled are you asking about?
Anyway, you may need to add weight to the tip of the clutch weights. If you have a FI Apex you need to be shifting at ~ 10,500 RPM. If you have an older RX-1 you need to be shifting at 10,200 RPM. To get the RPMs down at WOT you will need to add weight to the tip.
I would go look at Allen's setup sheet. Mine was spot on. The setup sheet also tells you where the secondary twist should be set and what spring you need, if he did not provide a new Secondary Spring. It will also tell you what weight to use and where.
Did you put on a new belt? Did you clean the Mold Release residue from the new belt before you put it on? Did you set the Belt Height on the new belt. Did you clean and rough up the two clutches sheaves with scotchbrite before you put on the new belt? Did you check the center-to-center? All these things should be done to make any clutch work right.
Anyway, let us know what sled you are asking about and maybe we can help pinpoint your problem. Also, you might want to compare the weight setup sheet to the actual setup that you have.
Anyway, you may need to add weight to the tip of the clutch weights. If you have a FI Apex you need to be shifting at ~ 10,500 RPM. If you have an older RX-1 you need to be shifting at 10,200 RPM. To get the RPMs down at WOT you will need to add weight to the tip.
I would go look at Allen's setup sheet. Mine was spot on. The setup sheet also tells you where the secondary twist should be set and what spring you need, if he did not provide a new Secondary Spring. It will also tell you what weight to use and where.
Did you put on a new belt? Did you clean the Mold Release residue from the new belt before you put it on? Did you set the Belt Height on the new belt. Did you clean and rough up the two clutches sheaves with scotchbrite before you put on the new belt? Did you check the center-to-center? All these things should be done to make any clutch work right.
Anyway, let us know what sled you are asking about and maybe we can help pinpoint your problem. Also, you might want to compare the weight setup sheet to the actual setup that you have.
TrailxRider
Expert
Len Todd said:
Len how do you clean the new belt to get the mold off? I just ordered 2 new factory yamaha belts and this is the first time I heard to clean them before using them. ALso how do you check center to center on the clutches? I have a service manual but it doesnt mention that. Just how to check the secondary to see if it needs spacers on the front or back of the sheaves.
blue er
Expert
len it came with everything from ulmer but I can't find my set up sheet, the belts are new the secondary was set to the instructionst, deflection looks good and i had the dealer check it for c2c and offset after i installed it, i cleaned the clutches with a scotchbrite pad and acetone , cleaned the belt as well with warm water and dishsoap.
2006 apex er
2006 apex er
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
[quote="TrailxRider Len how do you clean the new belt to get the mold off? I just ordered 2 new factory yamaha belts and this is the first time I heard to clean them before using them. Also how do you check center to center on the clutches? I have a service manual but it doesn't mention that. Just how to check the secondary to see if it needs spacers on the front or back of the sheaves.[/quote]
To get the mold release gel off the belt, you scrub belt with cleaner in sink. I use Formula 409. Some use Simple Green. Do not use dish soap. Dish soap leaves a film.
To measure Center to Center you measure from the Primary's Stub Shaft center to the Jack-shaft center. But, there is some trivia because the ends of these shafts are not in the same plane. So, I use one of Allen Ulmer's clutch tools which is set up for measuring Center-to-Center and offset, as well as other things. It is good tool and we all need access to one at various times. If you need the spec C-to-C distance, please let me know.
The use of spacers on the front and back of the Secondary affects the Secondary's Offset. Allen's tool works for this too. Offset is the distance the Secondary is offset from the Primary so that they will stay lined up as the sled shifts. If there is not 15mm of offset, you could be causing excessive belt slippage, wear and even turn over the belt. On our sleds we have 15 mm offset with the Secondary floating about .060". (i.e. there is ~ .060" of gap left on the Jack-shaft for the Secondary to float on the Jack-shaft, or .060" of axial travel is another way of saying it.)
To get the mold release gel off the belt, you scrub belt with cleaner in sink. I use Formula 409. Some use Simple Green. Do not use dish soap. Dish soap leaves a film.
To measure Center to Center you measure from the Primary's Stub Shaft center to the Jack-shaft center. But, there is some trivia because the ends of these shafts are not in the same plane. So, I use one of Allen Ulmer's clutch tools which is set up for measuring Center-to-Center and offset, as well as other things. It is good tool and we all need access to one at various times. If you need the spec C-to-C distance, please let me know.
The use of spacers on the front and back of the Secondary affects the Secondary's Offset. Allen's tool works for this too. Offset is the distance the Secondary is offset from the Primary so that they will stay lined up as the sled shifts. If there is not 15mm of offset, you could be causing excessive belt slippage, wear and even turn over the belt. On our sleds we have 15 mm offset with the Secondary floating about .060". (i.e. there is ~ .060" of gap left on the Jack-shaft for the Secondary to float on the Jack-shaft, or .060" of axial travel is another way of saying it.)
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